Emergency Brake hardware replacement
- Thread starter sbakewell
- Start date
WJCO
Meme King
Welcome to WAL. Parts stores sell brake hardware tools or you can use looonnngg needle nose pliers. I have NEVER had to pull an axle for any ebrake shoe replacements, but don't recall if I've done a JK or not, but doesn't seem like it would be any different. Have you checked youtube videos?
EDIT: Also, why are you replacing the pads/hardware? Where did you damage it?
EDIT: Also, why are you replacing the pads/hardware? Where did you damage it?
Last edited:
I used a 3 jaw puller to extract the rotor on the driver side. The hardware on the other side seems ok because I was gentle after learning my lesson on the broken side. From what I have seen it looks like the rear spring is going to be difficult plus everything just wants to fall apart and I feel like I need to be an octopus. Really I'm probably just putting things back together in the wrong order. Do you put the hold pins in first? Mount one of the heavy springs, etc. I heard the setup sucks and is prone to failure but removing it is not a option because it's a 6 speed. Thanks for the reply
rinkishjk
New member
You are definitely going to want to remove the axle shaft to install the new shoes correctly. I decided to do this on new years day, real quick, and after finding out about the shaft removal, it went pretty quick. I would install both shoes with the springs and adjuster as u have them, and then install the hold down pins and Springs, then reinstall the shaft.
WJCO
Meme King
Always leave one side assembled so you have a reference to look at (which it sounds like you did). Then use best method to get everything back together.
From what I can see, I would put the rear spring on both shoes first and then carefully(so you don't drop the spring) move that assy over to the backing plate and install the anchoring pins making sure the spring is still in place correctly. Then I would mess with the other parts that are 180 degrees from it. Then go back and do the front spring that goes on the other side where the rear spring is.
From what I can see, I would put the rear spring on both shoes first and then carefully(so you don't drop the spring) move that assy over to the backing plate and install the anchoring pins making sure the spring is still in place correctly. Then I would mess with the other parts that are 180 degrees from it. Then go back and do the front spring that goes on the other side where the rear spring is.
sipafz
Caught the Bug
Puller to remove the rotor? Did you back off the self adjusting screw before using the puller? If not, you remove the rubber plug found on the backside of the backing plate after removing the caliper. Then you can get a flat blade in the slot and back off the the self adjuster. The rotor should slide off the axel with a couple taps from a mallet, I see that you got quite a bit of rust. Clean it up good with some steel wool or emery cloth and use some never seize between the axel and rotor diameters when you put it together.
Photo shows the rubber plug for the self adjuster for next time:
Or maybe you did all that then just ignore this post.
Thanks a bunch everyone. I've pulled the hub off the front before when I did my ball joints so the shaft removal should be straight forward. The bearing is pressed on the shaft so it might be a bit difficult to get the axle to budge. From what I have heard there is nothing you have to do to get the axle to come out in the differential housing like you had on TJ's correct??
WJCO
Meme King
If you pull the axle, there are bolts on the back of the backing plate. You do not have to pull the diff cover. With the rust you have,, a slide hammer may help.
sipafz
Caught the Bug
With the pair of red springs attached, pull the shoes apart on the other side and slip over the axel flange. Insert the adjuster and have someone hold while you get the hold downs back in. The green spring should be last.
BTW a subscription to Chilton for $25 will give you step by step instructions for this type of work. Also, your caliper bolts require loctite and specific torque values. You can find the torque on this sight somewhere.
BTW a subscription to Chilton for $25 will give you step by step instructions for this type of work. Also, your caliper bolts require loctite and specific torque values. You can find the torque on this sight somewhere.
Last edited:
rinkishjk
New member
Good luck. I tried and tried and that's why I ended up taking the shaft out and then it was very easy to work on. Work smarter, not harder. At least that's my motto.
Attachments
WJCO
Meme King
Totally understandable. Sometimes even if you don't have to do it, moving certain things out of the way may make it easier.
sipafz
Caught the Bug
Yup, more than one way to skin a cat! I applaud the fact that he (and you) is doing it himself!
A bit off topic, but I love the threads where someone takes their rig in for work and then complains about the work that was done. Even if it is wrong, I keep coming back to that they should have done it themselves! Unless it's a recall, no one touches my Jeeps!
Thank you both for the info. Was the axle hard to get back in and did you have any leaks after. Any new seals necessary.
I HATE the Chilton book that I have currently. The black and white pics are generic and useless. I'd like to have the Jk mopar shop manual but can't get a hold of pdf
I HATE the Chilton book that I have currently. The black and white pics are generic and useless. I'd like to have the Jk mopar shop manual but can't get a hold of pdf
sipafz
Caught the Bug
I'm sure that the Chilton online info is the same as the printed manual that you have or maybe not even. I think for extra money, like a couple hundred they have a professional version. Too spendy for me as I just use the cheap DIY one. It's good for some basic instruction, sequences, torque values and patterns.
rinkishjk
New member
No it slides right back in. Hardest part is getting it to come loose in the housing. No new seals, although if u did have a leak, now is the time to change it. The retainer and bearing has to be pressed off the shaft to replace the seal.
Success. Glad I pulled it. Just noticed the actuator attached to the brake cable is seized and will also need replacement. It just keeps going. Did I mention the last remaining retainer bolt to remove the axle decided to strip it's splines and just spin. That was fun times with a hack saw blade cutting it off. Oh well, if I didn't enjoy the sense of accomplishment I would not try.