Dynatrac 60 install

LAJK

LAJK

Member
I’m currently in the process of installing dynatrac’s hardcore 60’s on my jk and have some questions.

1. What brake lines did others with dynatrac go with?
2. What gear fluid should I run once the break in period is up?
3. When breaking in the gears I’d assume that I drive with the front hubs locked so that the gears are spinning?
4. Being that the axles are 68.5” wide would I need to upgrade my psc ram for 6.5” stroke to an 8” stroke?

Never installed a set of 60’s before so I’m full of newbie questions.
 
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LAJK said:
I’m currently in the process of installing dynatrac’s hardcore 60’s on my jk and have some questions.

1. What brake lines did others with dynatrac go with?
2. What gear fluid should I run once the break in period is up?
3. When breaking in the gears I’d assume that I drive with the front hubs locked so that the gears are spinning?
4. Being that the axles are 68.5” wide would I need to upgrade my psc ram for 6.5” stroke to an 8” stroke?

Never installed a set of 60’s before so I’m full of newbie questions.
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1. You need to get standard brake lines but ones that are long enough to accommodate the amount of lift and droop you have.
2. Depends on what lockers you have. If you got ARB's, you should ONLY use old school dino. If you got e-lockers, you can use synthetic. As far as weight goes, it depends on what gear ratio you got with them. 5.13's or 5.38's and I would say run a heavier weight at least in the rear.
3. Honestly, I would just concern yourself with breaking in the rear. Unless you're in 4WD, you're never really gonna be able to get the kind of break in that you'd otherwise be looking for up front.
4. That sounds about right to me.
 
Check out DDays build, he documented it well towards the end of this build thread. But to answer your questions:

1. EVO brake lines
2. I run Amsoil in mine
3. I did not run them locked. I change the fluid when I change the rear
4. Yes, you will need an 8” ram.



The build/re-build of Gruff
https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=31355




2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
 
wayoflife said:
1. You need to get standard brake lines but ones that are long enough to accommodate the amount of lift and droop you have.
2. Depends on what lockers you have. If you got ARB's, you should ONLY use old school dino. If you got e-lockers, you can use synthetic. As far as weight goes, it depends on what gear ratio you got with them. 5.13's or 5.38's and I would say run a heavier weight at least in the rear.
3. Honestly, I would just concern yourself with breaking in the rear. Unless you're in 4WD, you're never really gonna be able to get the kind of break in that you'd otherwise be looking for up front.
4. That sounds about right to me.
Click to expand...

I went with arbs and 5.38’s
 
LAJK said:
I went with arbs and 5.38’s
Click to expand...

That's my setup as well. I use Lucas 85W-140 because that's on the shelves around here but any brand of dino works. 8" Ram's the ticket.
Sounds like you have all the right answers
 
Ddays said:
That's my setup as well. I use Lucas 85W-140 because that's on the shelves around here but any brand of dino works. 8" Ram's the ticket.
Sounds like you have all the right answers
Click to expand...

How about setting the pinion angles? Being that the axles are designed for 3-5” of lift couldn’t I set the pinion but putting an angle finder on the spring purch with a read out of 0 degrees?
 
wayoflife said:
1. You need to get standard brake lines but ones that are long enough to accommodate the amount of lift and droop you have.
2. Depends on what lockers you have. If you got ARB's, you should ONLY use old school dino. If you got e-lockers, you can use synthetic. As far as weight goes, it depends on what gear ratio you got with them. 5.13's or 5.38's and I would say run a heavier weight at least in the rear.
3. Honestly, I would just concern yourself with breaking in the rear. Unless you're in 4WD, you're never really gonna be able to get the kind of break in that you'd otherwise be looking for up front.
4. That sounds about right to me.
Click to expand...

What weights would you recommend?
 
Being that my Jeep is a factory rubicon is there a way to wire into the factory switch so that the locker dash lights still function as if it were stock axles. I have arb air lockers
 
LAJK said:
Being that my Jeep is a factory rubicon is there a way to wire into the factory switch so that the locker dash lights still function as if it were stock axles. I have arb air lockers
Click to expand...

Yeah... it can be done. Back in the day, I had EVO make it work on Moby but honestly, I couldn't tell you what they did. I do know they wired things up to the factory relays but that's about it. Obviously, you will need to have your compressor come on first but other than that, you should be able to work something out. Unlike the JL/JT, the electrical setup on the JK is a lot less complicated.
 
LAJK said:
How about setting the pinion angles? Being that the axles are designed for 3-5” of lift couldn’t I set the pinion but putting an angle finder on the spring purch with a read out of 0 degrees?
Click to expand...

That's a good starting point but still best to verify on the DS & pinion.
 
LAJK said:
Being that my Jeep is a factory rubicon is there a way to wire into the factory switch so that the locker dash lights still function as if it were stock axles. I have arb air lockers
Click to expand...

Other than the clean factory look, why would you want too? I hate having to follow all the rules the corporate attorneys set for when you can use things like lockers and sway bars.

I love being able to engage the rear locker while in 2wd if I want, as well as any other time I wish.
 
jdofmemi said:
Other than the clean factory look, why would you want too? I hate having to follow all the rules the corporate attorneys set for when you can use things like lockers and sway bars.

I love being able to engage the rear locker while in 2wd if I want, as well as any other time I wish.
Click to expand...

You rebel


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jdofmemi said:
Other than the clean factory look, why would you want too? I hate having to follow all the rules the corporate attorneys set for when you can use things like lockers and sway bars.

I love being able to engage the rear locker while in 2wd if I want, as well as any other time I wish.
Click to expand...

It’s just a thought. If there is more work involved then I’m willing to put forth I’ll just keep it simple. Once I switch to arbs will the locker light always be illuminated on my dash?
 
LAJK said:
It’s just a thought. If there is more work involved then I’m willing to put forth I’ll just keep it simple. Once I switch to arbs will the locker light always be illuminated on my dash?
Click to expand...

That's one of the few lights NOT illuminated on my dash, so I think you are good. The lights come on when you activate them, and flash when activated but not locked. If the factory module is not active, no lights at all.
 
jdofmemi said:
That's one of the few lights NOT illuminated on my dash, so I think you are good. The lights come on when you activate them, and flash when activated but not locked. If the factory module is not active, no lights at all.
Click to expand...

[emoji23]Maybe those lights are trying to tell you something, Jerry. [emoji848]


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fiend said:
[emoji23]Maybe those lights are trying to tell you something, Jerry. [emoji848]


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE
Click to expand...

I actually have an appointment to get the clock spring replaced at the dealer while I'm gone to Tennessee. Then only the ABS and stability control lights will be on, and if I turn the stupid back on, they will go out too, at least they did last time I had everything working right.
 
LAJK said:
It’s just a thought. If there is more work involved then I’m willing to put forth I’ll just keep it simple. Once I switch to arbs will the locker light always be illuminated on my dash?
Click to expand...
Exactly what Jerry said. I have an ARB up front and stock in the rear. No lights and the rear still works like it's supposed to. As Jerry said I think if you wire them through the factory computer you'll be limited to when it would allow you to use them.

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