Driveshaft Selection

E

eazy

Member
Hey guys,

Just bought a 2016 Unlimited Sport a few weeks ago... Over the past couple weeks, I've ordered an EVO Enforcer 3" lift, King 2.5 shocks, EVO drag link flip, EVO gussets, 17" Method wheels, and 35" BFG KO2s. My Sport has 3.73 gears and a manual transmission. I think the only thing I still need to order is a front driveshaft. Adams seems popular. Is this the one I should order?

Part # JK-1350F-SSL
http://www.adamsdriveshaftoffroad.c...-driveshaft-solid-u-joint-severe-duty-series/

Do I need to provide any measurements, or can I just buy one from say Northridge4x4 (going for $610)?
 
I forget the part number. I've been happy with my Adams driveshaft just call them directly. That what I did told me what to measure told me about what they thought it should be and they were spot on when I measured for mine. Great guys to deal with. Even got mine faster to me as I asked if they could get it to me before the weekend as I had a trip planned already. They did. I'd use them again.
 
Are these driveshafts lengths pretty generic for JKs, as in, I won't need to measure I can just order it?
 
eazy said:
Hey guys,

Just bought a 2016 Unlimited Sport a few weeks ago... Over the past couple weeks, I've ordered an EVO Enforcer 3" lift, King 2.5 shocks, EVO drag link flip, EVO gussets, 17" Method wheels, and 35" BFG KO2s. My Sport has 3.73 gears and a manual transmission. I think the only thing I still need to order is a front driveshaft. Adams seems popular. Is this the one I should order?

Part # JK-1350F-SSL
http://www.adamsdriveshaftoffroad.c...-driveshaft-solid-u-joint-severe-duty-series/

Do I need to provide any measurements, or can I just buy one from say Northridge4x4 (going for $610)?
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Check with Havoc offroad. They are one of our supporting vendors and ask for WAYALIFE discount. [emoji106]
 
If they don't have what your looking for call trail jeeps. Tim and Wes helped me out when purchasing my Revolution axle shafts. They showed up two days after they were ordered.
 
I have an Adams and I didn't need to send the measurements. The vendor I purchased it from asked me a few questions about my suspension but that was it.
 
I have an Adams 1350. I called them direct when I ordered mine. I couldn't measure since the lift was not installed yet. I told them how much lift I was adding and they sent one out right away. It is a perfect fit, no binding or any other issues. Two follow-up installation questions were handled instantly. Very solid company.
 
I would recommend a 1310 u joint drive shaft if you are sticking with 44's. I like having the drive shaft joint as the weak link in my drive train as they are an easy and cheap replacement. DS joint can be swapped on the trail easily, a pinion is another storey.
 
millsey said:
I would recommend a 1310 u joint drive shaft if you are sticking with 44's. I like having the drive shaft joint as the weak link in my drive train as they are an easy and cheap replacement. DS joint can be swapped on the trail easily, a pinion is another storey.
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I thought stock drive shaft was equivalent to a 1330. Why would you go weaker than stock. I've never understood this weak link in my drive train. I want my stuff to be strong as possible. I don't want to be a hundred miles from anything and have a down graded drive shaft from my stock shaft, that I paid my hard earned cash for.
Nobody wants a puny shaft!
 
Journeyman said:
I thought stock drive shaft was equivalent to a 1330. Why would you go weaker than stock. I've never understood this weak link in my drive train. I want my stuff to be strong as possible. I don't want to be a hundred miles from anything and have a down graded drive shaft from my stock shaft, that I paid my hard earned cash for.
Nobody wants a puny shaft!
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Agreed. Plus 9 times out of ten the yoke gets mangled when the joint breaks so you're screwed anyway
 
deezus said:
I have Adam's front and rear of my 13 Rubicon 4dr and I highly recommend them, as far as I know they are the only ones using Dana Spicer u joints.
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Spicer is a good u-joint but JE Reel uses Neapco standard and in my opinion, are better if only because they are still made in the USA.

millsey said:
I would recommend a 1310 u joint drive shaft if you are sticking with 44's. I like having the drive shaft joint as the weak link in my drive train as they are an easy and cheap replacement. DS joint can be swapped on the trail easily, a pinion is another storey.
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Yeah, you can believe that if you want.

Journeyman said:
I thought stock drive shaft was equivalent to a 1330. Why would you go weaker than stock. I've never understood this weak link in my drive train. I want my stuff to be strong as possible. I don't want to be a hundred miles from anything and have a down graded drive shaft from my stock shaft, that I paid my hard earned cash for.
Nobody wants a puny shaft!
Click to expand...

2nd.gunman said:
Agreed. Plus 9 times out of ten the yoke gets mangled when the joint breaks so you're screwed anyway
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This ^^^

Factory is a 1330 and a 1310 is actually weaker. Factory was designed to handle 32" tires, not sure why you'd want a weaker drive shaft especially when pushing bigger tires. Of course, I'd be lying if I said I didn't run 1310's way back when the JK first came almost 10 years ago. I simply didn't know any better.
 
wayoflife said:
Factory is a 1330 and a 1310 is actually weaker. Factory was designed to handle 32" tires, not sure why you'd want a weaker drive shaft especially when pushing bigger tires. Of course, I'd be lying if I said I didn't run 1310's way back when the JK first came almost 10 years ago. I simply didn't know any better.
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Did you ever have any issues with the 1310? Only reason I ask is I also bought a 1310 assuming it had to be stronger than stock. They advertise its good up to a 37" tire, I'm only running 35s so I thought I was getting a solid upgrade.
 
BeardedJK said:
Did you ever have any issues with the 1310? Only reason I ask is I also bought a 1310 assuming it had to be stronger than stock. They advertise its good up to a 37" tire, I'm only running 35s so I thought I was getting a solid upgrade.
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Ummm, yeah. Blew out my first 1310 back at the 2007 EJS. Back then, a 1310 was really the only thing available and really, nobody knew any better. Sucks that there would be companies that would still advertise a 1310 would be good up to a 37" tire. Either they don't know any better or they know it's something they can sell to people looking to save some money - never mind it's an inferior shaft.
 
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