Drive Shafts

Kneece

Kneece

New member
If I wanted to buy Drive Shafts one time, which ones should I get for my 2010 JKU?


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bl17z90 said:
Whats the difference between 1310 and 1350's?
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1350 is a much bigger u-joint. In other words, it's a lot stronger. A 1310 is technically weaker than a factory shaft but, it gets the job done better being that up front, you can run a narrower shaft.
 
wayoflife said:
What he said and, assuming you have an automatic, you would want to get a front shaft first.
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Yes, I have an Auto. And might next question was going to be the difference between the two. Thanks for the info.


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Moochie said:
I use JE Reel 1350 shafts. They've been great for me. I would definitely buy them again.
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Thanks. I've watched your Silver JK and Moby grow up together on all the videos. Hoping to get to Moab one Easter week to see them in person.


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Out of curiousity, how are the 1310s weaker than factory? With them being recommended for small lifts and mild/moderate wheeling and 35s, I would assume they are at least equivalent in durability with the bonus of clearance being better. On the flip side if you stayed on the sub 3" lift and 35s, is it safe to say the stock front DS is the way to go over a 1310 on 2012+ JK?
 
Beyrgut said:
Out of curiousity, how are the 1310s weaker than factory? With them being recommended for small lifts and mild/moderate wheeling and 35s, I would assume they are at least equivalent in durability with the bonus of clearance being better.
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You can assume that but, that's about all you can do. Factory drive shafts use rzeppa style CV joints which are really really strong. As you may or may not know, RCV front axle shafts use a similar type of joint and are all the hype because of it. Yes, the factory front shaft does have one u-joint but, it's actually slightly bigger than a 1310. The biggest reason for 1310 front shafts being recommended is because they are made with a narrower diameter tube which is needed to help prevent contact with automatic transmissions on 07-11 JK's and to help clear the exhaust cross overs on 2012's up. Also, because factory shafts use CV joints, the boots tend to sit in a constant state of pinch on a lifted JK and that causes the boots to fail prematurely. Once this happens, it's just a matter of time before the bearings inside fail as well. A 1310 shaft will not have this problem. 1310 u-joints are also very common u-joint and all these factors play a role in them being recommended - NOT durability or strength.

On the flip side if you stayed on the sub 3" lift and 35s, is it safe to say the stock front DS is the way to go over a 1310 on 2012+ JK?
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On a 2012, you CANNOT run a shock that will give you more droop than would a stock JK or one that is made specifically for a 2.5" lift. Doing so will cause your front drive shaft boot to make contact with the exhaust cross over and get damaged. And, even if this weren't the case, the 2012-up JK's come with a motor and transmission that sit at a steeper angle than previous model JK's. Lifting your JK will cause the front drive shaft to sit at a much steeper angle and this will cause the CV boot to fail prematurely. These are the reasons for recommending a 1310 front drive shaft replacement, NOT added strength.
 
Awesome, thanks for the info filling in the blank spots I had. I have the 1310 already so if it gives me any trouble I'll bump up to the 1350.
 
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Beyrgut said:
Awesome, thanks for the info filling for the blank spots I had. I have the 1310 already so if it gives me any trouble I'll bump up to the 1350.
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Being that you live in FL, I seriously doubt that you'll have any problems with your 1310 shaft. Where you might see it's weakness is somewhere like Moab or the Rubicon.
 
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