Drive Shaft upgrade.

DLowe27

DLowe27

Member
Im looking at upgrading my drive shafts just not sure who or what to go with. I ordered a prorock 44 front and rear. As for drive shafts Im not sure who to go with. I heard some good things about Tom Woods but nothing to much. Any help wood be great!
 
Check out your local shops as well. In Boise we have a driveline shop that makes their own. The shop is very highly rated.
 
Honestly, with the exception of how well it's balanced and the components used, a drive shaft is pretty much a drive shaft and guys will always recommend whatever it is they chose to buy. Me, I have run a myriad of shafts but prefer to run JE Reel because they have always come to me well balanced and come STANDARD with made in the USA Neapco u-joints. I have run Coast as well and like them too as they come Spicer u-joints. I typically recommend AGAINST Tom Woods shafts as they come standard with cheap Chinese u-joints that I have seen fail on the trail time and time again.
 
bl17z90 said:
When changing your drive shafts, do you need to change the points that the new shafts bolt to?
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It depends on the shaft you get. Some are made so that you can bolt them up to the factory flanges and some by utilizing adapters to make it work. I have tried these in the past and do not recommend them. For one, the adapters tend to be big enough that they will make contact with your gastank skid plate when articulating. Also, with or without an adapter, the factory flange setups tend to stick out too far and that causes your drive shaft to sit at a steeper angle. Because of this, you're more likely to have driveline vibrations than not. Replacing your factory output shaft and pinion flanges with yokes will do a much better job of addressing these issues and even if you get a replacement flange, it'll be shorter and be much stronger than factory.
 
wayoflife said:
It depends on the shaft you get. Some are made so that you can bolt them up to the factory flanges and some by utilizing adapters to make it work. I have tried these in the past and do not recommend them. For one, the adapters tend to be big enough that they will make contact with your gastank skid plate when articulating. Also, with or without an adapter, the factory flange setups tend to stick out too far and that causes your drive shaft to sit at a steeper angle. Because of this, you're more likely to have driveline vibrations than not. Replacing your factory output shaft and pinion flanges with yokes will do a much better job of addressing these issues and even if you get a replacement flange, it'll be shorter and be much stronger than factory.
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So for a JE Reel 1350 for example would installing a set of yokes be needed or can they be used with the factory setup?

I know yokes would be better I'm just trying to figure out what parts I will need when I start peicing together my next lift.
 
bl17z90 said:
So for a JE Reel 1350 for example would installing a set of yokes be needed or can they be used with the factory setup?

I know yokes would be better I'm just trying to figure out what parts I will need when I start peicing together my next lift.
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Actually, JE Reel makes/sells replacement flanges for their 1350.
 
Yea I wanted to go with a local shop but in Hawaii stuff is limited. Also I will check JE reel driveshafts. When I install new lift whenever it gets to island will the drivwshafts need to be done then also (4.5" long arm)
 
DLowe27 said:
Yea I wanted to go with a local shop but in Hawaii stuff is limited. Also I will check JE reel driveshafts. When I install new lift whenever it gets to island will the drivwshafts need to be done then also (4.5" long arm)
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What Island are you on I am on Oahu Most of the guys I know and myself are running Adams DS the guy gives a military discount and really fast on shipping.
 
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