Drive Shaft Question

Eddie_k

Eddie_k

New member
Ok, I have I installed a 3" Terraflex lift on my 2016 Rubicon Unlimited, automatic transmission. I also have installed Rugged Ridge Exhaust Spacer Kit. Will this still cause an issue with the front driveshaft tearing into the boot? Should I be concerned or I am safe with this set up? Thank you.
 
Your slip shaft boot should be fine but the CV boot at the output shaft will now be sitting in a constant state of pinch due to the steep angle your shaft will be sitting in and that will cause it to fail sooner than later. A new replacement u-joint style shaft is the proper solution as it will address BOTH problems.
 
I have the same lift aka Mopar 3inch lift. My 2016 JKU is at the dealership as we speak with a torn boot at the transfer case. I only have 15,000 miles on it. They might replace the driveline with the one that comes with the new Mopar 4 inch lift. Any thoughts on this Eddie? Don't mean to hi-jack your thread OP.


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Edwrds said:
I have the same lift aka Mopar 3inch lift. My 2016 JKU is at the dealership as we speak with a torn boot at the transfer case. I only have 15,000 miles on it. They might replace the driveline with the one that comes with the new Mopar 4 inch lift. Any thoughts on this Eddie? Don't mean to hi-jack your thread OP.


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I believe the drive shaft that comes with the Mopar kit is just a 1310. Depending on how hard you play, it might be all that you need. If they're charging you for it, I might recommend that you shop around.

Eddie_k said:
Thank you. Will this do http://www.quadratec.com/products/52301_98X0_PG.htm
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IF you are determined to get a Tom Woods shaft, I would recommend that you pay to have the u-joints upgraded to Neapco or Spicer. The "gold seal" joints that come standard are made in China and I have seen them fail time and time again and for what I thought was no good reason.
 
Yes, thank you for the tips. The damn thing is never ending. So, today I had the Metalcloak overlain fenders/flares installed. Not bad but with 35" tires it looks weird. Too much gap between the tires and the flares. I guess now I have to definitely upgrade to 37's. I have already had the C's done as well as the Synergy ball joints. I know some would say this is enough for 37's but I want to make sure my Jeep won't be hurting under all that strain, so I'll be doing the following:
1. Cromo shafts
2. Front drive shaft
3. 5.13 gears.
Should I replace the stock tire rod/drag link?
If only Santa was real :)
 
Eddie_k said:
Yes, thank you for the tips. The damn thing is never ending. So, today I had the Metalcloak overlain fenders/flares installed. Not bad but with 35" tires it looks weird. Too much gap between the tires and the flares. I guess now I have to definitely upgrade to 37's. I have already had the C's done as well as the Synergy ball joints. I know some would say this is enough for 37's but I want to make sure my Jeep won't be hurting under all that strain, so I'll be doing the following:
1. Cromo shafts
2. Front drive shaft
3. 5.13 gears.
Should I replace the stock tire rod/drag link?
If only Santa was real :)
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If you play on the rocks, you will bend your tie rod. Replacing it with a good HD unit would be a good investment. Running 37's, it'll take a lot more effort to steer when aired down and on big rocks with a lot of grip. Without a ram assist, you will most likely bend your drag link. Upgrading may help prevent this from happening but the better solution would be to install a ram assist.

Rubicon310 said:
I believe a recommendation for 37's is also the truss the front.
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I wouldn't recommend it. Even if you don't bend your axle from installing a truss, you can still bend your weak factory axle housing. In my opinion, it's better to NOT throw any more money than you need at your factory axle and just save up for something like a ProRock 44. Being that the OP has a Rubicon, he can swap all the internals from it to a ProRock and make the upgrade for a lot less money.
 
wayoflife said:
I believe the drive shaft that comes with the Mopar kit is just a 1310. Depending on how hard you play, it might be all that you need. If they're charging you for it, I might recommend that you shop around.
Click to expand...



They are not charging me for the driveline all they are waiting for is the ok from there engineer that's it's ok for them run it in my Jeep. Liability issues. The service manager told me that they installed the driveline in my jeep and drove it with no issues. So I'm pretty much on standby waiting for a call back from them. The 1310 will still be better than my stock driveline? I'm planning on upgrading to a 1350 in the future it's all about the $$$


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Edwrds said:
They are not charging me for the driveline all they are waiting for is the ok from there engineer that's it's ok for them run it in my Jeep. Liability issues. The service manager told me that they installed the driveline in my jeep and drove it with no issues. So I'm pretty much on standby waiting for a call back from them. The 1310 will still be better than my stock driveline? I'm planning on upgrading to a 1350 in the future it's all about the $$$

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Okay, if they aren't going to charge you, I'd take it and be super thankful to them for helping you out. Technically, a 1310 is smaller than the one 1330 that on the factory shaft but it should hold up okay or at least until you can afford to upgrade to a 1350 and it'll solve problems that you were having.
 
wayoflife said:
If you play on the rocks, you will bend your tie rod. Replacing it with a good HD unit would be a good investment. Running 37's, it'll take a lot more effort to steer when aired down and on big rocks with a lot of grip. Without a ram assist, you will most likely bend your drag link. Upgrading may help prevent this from happening but the better solution would be to install a ram assist.



I wouldn't recommend it. Even if you don't bend your axle from installing a truss, you can still bend your weak factory axle housing. In my opinion, it's better to NOT throw any more money than you need at your factory axle and just save up for something like a ProRock 44. Being that the OP has a Rubicon, he can swap all the internals from it to a ProRock and make the upgrade for a lot less money.
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Good point.


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wayoflife said:
Okay, if they aren't going to charge you, I'd take it and be super thankful to them for helping you out. Technically, a 1310 is smaller than the one 1330 that on the factory shaft but it should hold up okay or at least until you can afford to upgrade to a 1350 and it'll solve problems that you were having.
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So pretty much I just won't have to worry about tearing the cv boot anymore with the 1310.


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wayoflife said:
Won't have to worry about tearing the slip shat boot and more importantly, you won't have to worry about your CV boot failing.


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So how important is the slip shat boot? The front was ok just the cv was torn. On my rear driveline that boot has some little holes in it. Looks like it has been rubbing on the evap.
Looks like I know what my next upgrades will be[emoji36]

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Edwrds said:
So how important is the slip shat boot? The front was ok just the cv was torn. On my rear driveline that boot has some little holes in it. Looks like it has been rubbing on the evap.


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Not as important as the CV boot. Over time, if you leave the shat without a boot, it will start to seize up and that will cause the CV to go bad. Trust me, I've seen it.


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wayoflife said:
Not as important as the CV boot. Over time, if you leave the shat without a boot, it will start to seize up and that will cause the CV to go bad. Trust me, I've seen it.


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Seems like Ive been spending more time correcting things lately than enjoying my Jeep.
Thank you for your help Eddie.

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