Drag Link Flip Option

Manvan

Member
This winter in the midwest really took its toll on the roads and the pot holes did the same to my suspension. So last fall I had installed a front track bar relocation bracket from Rough Country ($35) but never got around to flipping my drag link. My stock drag link lasted 38K so I figured what the heck. I looked on the internet and found a stock -right hand drive- drag link made by crown ($65) and I picked up a new Moog pitman arm end from Advanced Auto Parts. I work in a machine shop and made a flip bushing which by the way would have been way easier to buy for ($10). So tonight I took the battery drill and drilled out the steering knuckle, 1st 3/4" then 27/32". Put it back together, set the steering, and everything works great. I Have 1-1/2" wheel spacers with stock rims and am pretty sure the spacers are needed to clear the drag link. So for me it was $100 bucks and done. BTW, it takes about 33 turns to get the adjusting sleeve close.
 
Very nice! I'm running the EVO drag link flip, but it also comes with a front track bar relocation bracket AND sway bar relocation brackets. I'm glad to know you were able to make an economical solution :thumb:
 
Keeping the drag link and track bar as parallel to the ground as possible helps with handling. Same goes for control arms.
 
Ok noob question here but can you explain the purpose of the flip ?

When you lift your Jeep 3" or more, your track bar and drag link will sit at a measurably higher angle. This will adversely effect the handling of your Jeep. By flipping the drag link AND relocating your track bar mount so that both are moved up together (this is critical), you will restore your steering geometry closer to stock and that will improve your handling as well.
 
Wouldn't a drop pitman arm also improve the angle?

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Wouldn't a drop pitman arm also improve the angle?

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Yes, but you would still need to install a track bar relocation bracket. You cannot do one without the other. It is critical that both track bar and drag link sit parallel to each other.
 
Yeah a drag link flip would be easier.Thanks

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I have a 2010 mountain jku with a 2-1/2" Skyjacker lift and 3/4" spring spacers in the front.

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I have a 2010 mountain jku with a 2-1/2" Skyjacker lift and 3/4" spring spacers in the front.

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Are the spacers there just to make up for the lift you lost with your Skyjacker coils? If so, you don't really want to do a drag link flip as it'll over correct your steering geometry. If you actually got about 3/4" more lift out of your spacers and are not sitting at over 3" of true lift, it would be something I'd consider.
 
I have a 2010 mountain jku with a 2-1/2" Skyjacker lift and 3/4" spring spacers in the front.

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Reason I asked was, Im curious as to how close your drag link now comes to the frame at full stuff/bump with such a small lift?
 
I used the spacers to level the front. I didn't want it to sit nose down. Also, I will probably never wheel as hard as Eddie does, so I doubt I will have a problem bottoming out the drag link. I do understand what your saying about pinching the drag link. I will have to be mindful of that when I wheel. I also like having minimal bump steer.

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