Death Wobble When Braking

DirtHeadDavis

DirtHeadDavis

Hooked
This has probably been covered before, but anyhow this is my newest issue.

My immediate thought is warped rotors - mainly because my Jeep shudders to a stop occasionally when approaching stop lights as well. It typically happens on a downhill grade as well.

Rotate the rotors? Replace? I'm sure this has been a common issue. Jeep has 61k miles and has had pads replaced and on stock rotors.

Synergy Track Bar: Torqued.
Drag Link: Torqued, bushings good.
Tie Rod: Torqued, bushings good.
Control Arms: Torqued, bushings good.

?
 
That’s not death wobble. It’s likely rotors as it only happens during braking. Only real way to stop Death wobble once it’s starts is heavy braking until it’s gone.
 
Ddays said:
That’s not death wobble. It’s likely rotors as it only happens during braking. Only real way to stop Death wobble once it’s starts is heavy braking until it’s gone.
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Yeah, that's what I was thinking. I just meant it as in the same feel in the steering wheel.
 
DirtHeadDavis said:
On the list anyhow 🤷‍♂️

You think 60k miles (albeit on 35s) is a decent life for them? Maybe be sure to turn the next set throughout their life?
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I think 60 is good... plus it's not just city driving. I used to turn mine back in the day... now I just buy new. But I am going to turn the Progrips I just took off... then turn the new set that is on there now. And that's another thing... if you can swing it, a brake upgrade like the Progrips makes a big difference in stopping those 35's.
 
Could be warped rotors or play in a tie rod end. But regardless, being that the symptom occurs in the steering wheel, at least you've identified front wheels vs rear. If you're willing and a shop is, pull the front rotors, take them in, and see if they'll put them on the lathe to see. Plus if they have enough meat on them, you may be able to machine them. A lot of auto parts stores do that now too.
 
Does it shudder sometimes when the brakes are not applied? Maybe have someone move the steering wheel back and forth in short strokes while you look at the steering… You may see or feel something loose. I just ordered a new track bar because I found a good amount of play in mine. Steering feels a little loose and I do get a slight shudder in the steering wheel. Both ends of the synergy look bad. The bolts are tight and dont move.. but the bushings have play. Worth a look before spending money on rotors.
 
TrailHunter said:
Does it shudder sometimes when the brakes are not applied? Maybe have someone move the steering wheel back and forth in short strokes while you look at the steering… You may see or feel something loose. I just ordered a new track bar because I found a good amount of play in mine. Steering feels a little loose and I do get a slight shudder in the steering wheel. Both ends of the synergy look bad. The bolts are tight and dont move.. but the bushings have play. Worth a look before spending money on rotors.
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Definitely will look, only shudders while braking. When coming to a slow stop, the Jeep almost "bounces" back and forth and when applied harder at speed it shakes the wheel pretty violently. Nothing happens while driving wether it's at 25 or 85.

Edit: Just had someone shimmy the wheel back and forth and everything seems in order. No movement in the track bar, drag link, or tie rod. Again it drives solid when moving. Gonna jack it up and try to move the wheel across a horizontal plane to look for tie rod play, and then maybe turn the rotors once before I buy a whole new set.
 
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OverlanderJK said:
I never replaced the rotors on my two door with 87k when I sold it. 80k of those with 35’s and up.
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IMHO, driver habits have a lot to do with pad and rotor life. Those who do not become one with the machine and rely almost entirely on brakes, rather than engine+transmission, will destroy rotors very quickly. I have seen many people using their brakes entirely when going down a 2500 ft 7 degree grade. I have seen people who tailgate so badly that they continue to accelerate/brake over and over in order to maintain the 11 ft distance.

Most braking requirements are very predictable, and so by allowing more room and naturally slowing down using engine and transmission, braking stresses are greatly reduced.

So perhaps 100k miles is possible for those with sufficient mechanical sympathy.
 
Just to confirm, you're Jeep is going into a violent uncontrollable shaking until you come to a stop or close to it but only when braking? Or, are you saying that you feel a pretty bad shimmy in the front end when braking. There is a difference.
 
Since it’s only when braking my first thought is rotors, especially if you only pad slapped the last brake job you did. Rotors got thinner and close to min spec and can’t handle the heat anymore so they are warped. Replace pads and rotors when you do it
 
Definitely start with Rotors, and brake pads as well if they're worn. If your wheels are cupping, then you may also want to check your toe-in. Trail grapplers wear pretty evenly and for many miles.
 
wayoflife said:
Just to confirm, you're Jeep is going into a violent uncontrollable shaking until you come to a stop or close to it but only when braking? Or, are you saying that you feel a pretty bad shimmy in the front end when braking. There is a difference.
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Only when braking at speed to come to a more abrupt stop, and braking hard. If I gradually slow down with a soft touch of the pedal, all is well. Only happens when coming to a dead stop in other words.
 
cozdude said:
Since it’s only when braking my first thought is rotors, especially if you only pad slapped the last brake job you did. Rotors got thinner and close to min spec and can’t handle the heat anymore so they are warped. Replace pads and rotors when you do it
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That's the plan, I did in fact just do pads last time.
 
Samuelh3 said:
Definitely start with Rotors, and brake pads as well if they're worn. If your wheels are cupping, then you may also want to check your toe-in. Trail grapplers wear pretty evenly and for many miles.
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Alignment is good, the very slight uneven wear on my shoulders is unnoticeable unless felt with your hand but is more from my straight front to back tire rotations I think. Gonna be sure to cross rotate my next set.
 
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