DANA 60's

PGH08JK

PGH08JK

Member
Ok, So I've been on the net looking for Used D60's. Any years to look for, makes of trucks they were on, or anything like that? I've found a few sets from one truck. Just curious if I should stay away from the ones XXX years old, or buy some from a specific time frame.


Thanks!!
 
Most people go for the old ford kingpins from the 70's and 80's. The new Ford front axle has all the brackets casted to the axle making it a PITA to figure out new bracket mounting points. That combined with the pumpkin being very close to the knuckle.
 
PGH08JK said:
So older ones from 70's and 80's?
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Ford 78-79 more specifically have a more midline driver's side pumpkin that will allow for more welding surface for your jk brackets. 80-91are virtually the same except the pumpkin is a couple inches closer to the knuckle(not a big deal, just makes welding a bit tighter. 92+ uses balljoints vs kingpins. The old balljoints sucked and were less desirable than the durability of the kingpin, but in the last 5-10 years the aftermarket has really improved and able to get stronger balljoints like prosteer. I wouldn't do anything with the mid 2000's(not sure which year it started) to present due to the coil buckets and control arm brackets being casted.
 
Oh by the way...most GM and Dodge D60's are passenger side drop so ur pretty limited to Ford for the front axle. Rear obviously doesn't matter though.
 
Just so you know, by the time you get it all setup and do it right for a JK, you'll most likely be in it for about the same cost as a new 60. Just something to think about.
 
wayoflife said:
Just so you know, by the time you get it all setup and do it right for a JK, you'll most likely be in it for about the same cost as a new 60. Just something to think about.
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What are the 60's running now front and rear.

2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.
 
munstie said:
What are the 60's running now front and rear.

2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.
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If your wanting to do new 60's with all the bells and whistles, full float, 8 lug, stub hubs, pro steers, etc. can run 17 to 20K+....cheap brand that are semi float 5 lug, stock brake assembly retained, etc. can be as cheap as around 10K. If you have the money to spend 10k then I would save for the better 17k that will outlast the jeep!

If you do all your own work like installation of carrier/locker/R&P/brackets and you shop smart and can wheel&deal it can be done with junkyard axles for 5-7K
 
StrizzyChris said:
If your wanting to do new 60's with all the bells and whistles, full float, 8 lug, stub hubs, pro steers, etc. can run 17 to 20K+....cheap brand that are semi float 5 lug, stock brake assembly retained, etc. can be as cheap as around 10K. If you have the money to spend 10k then I would save for the better 17k that will outlast the jeep!

If you do all your own work like installation of carrier/locker/R&P/brackets and you shop smart and can wheel&deal it can be done with junkyard axles for 5-7K
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Not exactly. You can get a basic new rear 60 for about $4500 and a front for about $7000. That by itself is nicer than a junkyard set of 60's which will cost you about as much if not more to get setup for a JK.
 
I do have a shop, I can fabricate. Sheet metal, steel, etc. I build some drift cars on the side for some Friends, cages, front tube chassis, etc. I have no doubts I can weld the brackets and everything for these to mount up. What am I looking at as far as steering, should I run high steer? Or flip kit? What's you're thoughts on this??
 
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