Currie Lower Front Control Arm Question

LarryG

LarryG

New member
I have the Currie Adjustable control arms installed and have two questions actually.

First- I have 10 turns left on the threads and would like to extend by another two turns....would that leave sufficient amount in the sleeve?

Second, I will attach a photo of both left and right. As you can see they are cocked. I have recentered them several times but they always end up like this....is this normal? If it is not normal, what do I need to do to align them so they stay aligned?

ThanksIMG_1371.jpgIMG_1372.jpg
 
You do realize that you have Johnny Joints on both ends of your control arms, right? In other words, there would be nothing to prevent them from rotating freely and that's a good thing. What you're seeing is totally normal.

Exactly why are you wanting to extend your control arms so far out? Do you have adjustable upper arms installed as well?
 
You should be able to take two more threads out, but what is your caster at now? Or are you trying to center your axle more in the wheel well?

That joint will always pivot. What you can try is loosen the big jam nut. While the control arm mount bolts are still tight, use a pry bar to center the joint. THEN re-tighten that jam nut. Jam nut should be tightened after all the mounting bolts are fastened. However, being that the joint is designed to flex, it may stay that way, won't hurt anything.

EDIT: Eddie beat me to it, lol.

ANOTHER EDIT: Added pics here, mine are not centered either.

0124170847.jpg

0124170849.jpg
 
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LarryG said:
I have the Currie Adjustable control arms installed and have two questions actually.

First- I have 10 turns left on the threads and would like to extend by another two turns....would that leave sufficient amount in the sleeve?

Second, I will attach a photo of both left and right. As you can see they are cocked. I have recentered them several times but they always end up like this....is this normal? If it is not normal, what do I need to do to align them so they stay aligned?

ThanksView attachment 240547View attachment 240548
Click to expand...

I'm running all Currie arms.

It is Normal for the joints to rotate, they are doing their job.

I called Currie when I installed mine and asked them how far I could extend them. They said you want to leave the same amount of threads (in length) as the diameter of the threaded end.

Does that make sense?


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wayoflife said:
You do realize that you have Johnny Joints on both ends of your control arms, right? In other words, there would be nothing to prevent them from rotating freely and that's a good thing. What you're seeing is totally normal.

Exactly why are you wanting to extend your control arms so far out? Do you have adjustable upper arms installed as well?
Click to expand...

Yes, I have adjustable uppers, so I knew I could go that route, but wanted to extend rather than retract if I could. I am still shy of my desired caster setting.

Thanks for the quick response.
 
Mtb275 said:
I'm running all Currie arms.

It is Normal for the joints to rotate, they are doing their job.

I called Currie when I installed mine and asked them how far I could extend them. They said you want to leave the same amount of threads (in length) as the diameter of the threaded end.

Does that make sense?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Thanks....yes it makes sense. Threaded into sleeve should be at least the diameter of the threaded end.
 
LarryG said:
Yes, I have adjustable uppers, so I knew I could go that route, but wanted to extend rather than retract if I could. I am still shy of my desired caster setting.

Thanks for the quick response.
Click to expand...

Eye to eye, how long are your lower control arms set at now?
 
LarryG said:
Both are actually the same, not by plan, but they are: 23 7/16".
Click to expand...

Factory front lower control arms measure 22-5/8″ in length center to center. Even with 4" of lift, the most I would set front lower arms is 23". Sounds like you're 7/16" too long as it is and you want to go longer?


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wayoflife said:
Factory front lower control arms measure 22-5/8″ in length center to center. Even with 4" of lift, the most I would set front lower arms is 23". Sounds like you're 7/16" too long as it is and you want to go longer?


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Click to expand...

Well, that is just what someone who doesn't know might do. I'm new at this. In the interest of trying to understand, can you provide why it is that you wouldn't go longer than 23"? I really would like to learn not only what NOT to do, but why. I will certainly shorten the upper to gain additional caster. Although I have adjustable, they are currently at the stock length. I was hoping I could do everything with the lowers. Don't ask me why. Previously I have read you suggest that you could "get by" with only lowers to reach the caster goal, so my thinking was....treat it like I only had lowers....maybe dumb logic, but that is what I thought.

Thanks, as always.

P.S. I do have PR60s, if that makes any difference.
 
LarryG said:
Well, that is just what someone who doesn't know might do. I'm new at this. In the interest of trying to understand, can you provide why it is that you wouldn't go longer than 23"? I really would like to learn not only what NOT to do, but why. I will certainly shorten the upper to gain additional caster. Although I have adjustable, they are currently at the stock length. I was hoping I could do everything with the lowers. Don't ask me why. Previously I have read you suggest that you could "get by" with only lowers to reach the caster goal, so my thinking was....treat it like I only had lowers....maybe dumb logic, but that is what I thought.

Thanks, as always.

P.S. I do have PR60s, if that makes any difference.
Click to expand...

The length of your lower control arms are intended to set the position of your axle while your upper arms should be used to set caster up front and pinion angle in the rear. With 3"-4" of lift, about 23" give or take an 1/8" should put your front axle back at about where it needs to be. Yes, you can "get by" setting your caster with just front lowers but from what I have seen, anything more than 23" will typically give you MORE than +4° of caster. I have also found that arms set longer than 23" can cause unwanted spring bow and rubbing of things like sway bar arms or bump stop cups as a result of it. Having a ProRock 60 should make no difference as to where your axle is located but it would make a difference in how you set your caster being that it should already come with +6° of caster built into it.
 
wayoflife said:
The length of your lower control arms are intended to set the position of your axle while your upper arms should be used to set caster up front and pinion angle in the rear. With 3"-4" of lift, about 23" give or take an 1/8" should put your front axle back at about where it needs to be. Yes, you can "get by" setting your caster with just front lowers but from what I have seen, anything more than 23" will typically give you MORE than +4° of caster. I have also found that arms set longer than 23" can cause unwanted spring bow and rubbing of things like sway bar arms or bump stop cups as a result of it. Having a ProRock 60 should make no difference as to where your axle is located but it would make a difference in how you set your caster being that it should already come with +6° of caster built into it.
Click to expand...

You're the best! Thanks. Nothing seems to rub, or such, and the spring is vertically centered as it is...I'm only at 4 degrees of caster and one of your previous suggestions was to go for 6 with the ProRocks....makes sense. I will bring the upper in a bit while installing the Hydro Assist. Thanks again! Hope to meet someday!:beer:
 
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