Crash repairs-OEM vs Aftermarket Parts

Nataqua

Nataqua

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Some of you know that a few days before Christmas my Jeep that was parked in front of my house at 2am was plowed into by an intoxicated asshat. I received the estimate yesterday and have a few questions for you all. Plus, if you are a Reno local, what's your opinion of Steve's Collision Center? I tried to get it into Coachcraft, but they are booked weeks out. I haven't yet committed to any certain repair shop. There is some visible damage to the frame, but the Jeep still needs to be put up on a rack to check the frame, that should happen tomorrow. The estimate is currently at about $5400.00

One question I have is about the axle ratio. I believe my Jeep had the 3.73 axle that came with the Max tow package, but I'm not sure how to prove that, should I need to. I mentioned it to the adjuster over the phone when he called me with the verbal estimate and I can see that he a already had 3.21 on the digital copy. I'll see if I have to push more for this or not. And, if I succeed, how can I tell what has actually been installed when the work is completed?

Second question is about new aftermarket parts. They've quoted O'Reilly upper and lower control arms...is there a difference in quality vs OEM?
Same question about Flares from Autonation, will they match and wear the same as the rest of my Jeep?

The third question is about the tire. They've quoted a used replacement wheel and intend to use the old tire and see if it holds air. Do you think the integrity of this tire would be compromised? If it does indeed get replaced, is the few thousand miles of wear differential of the remaining tires an issue?

Thank you so much for your help, I really don't have knowledgeable people in real life that I can go to with these questions.
 
Your serial number should tell them everything about your Jeep, including the gear ratio. A dealer can print you a build sheet so you can also know everything about your Jeep. I think you can online too but I don’t know how, sorry


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JKbrick said:
Your serial number should tell them everything about your Jeep, including the gear ratio. A dealer can print you a build sheet so you can also know everything about your Jeep. I think you can online too but I don’t know how, sorry


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Thank You, I'd forgotten about that, I'll do that tomorrow. Or today, I know there's a online site that can do that costs a few $.
 
Nataqua said:
View attachment 318186 View attachment 318189

Some of you know that a few days before Christmas my Jeep that was parked in front of my house at 2am was plowed into by an intoxicated asshat. I received the estimate yesterday and have a few questions for you all. Plus, if you are a Reno local, what's your opinion of Steve's Collision Center? I tried to get it into Coachcraft, but they are booked weeks out. I haven't yet committed to any certain repair shop. There is some visible damage to the frame, but the Jeep still needs to be put up on a rack to check the frame, that should happen tomorrow. The estimate is currently at about $5400.00

One question I have is about the axle ratio. I believe my Jeep had the 3.73 axle that came with the Max tow package, but I'm not sure how to prove that, should I need to. I mentioned it to the adjuster over the phone when he called me with the verbal estimate and I can see that he a already had 3.21 on the digital copy. I'll see if I have to push more for this or not. And, if I succeed, how can I tell what has actually been installed when the work is completed?

Second question is about new aftermarket parts. They've quoted O'Reilly upper and lower control arms...is there a difference in quality vs OEM?
Same question about Flares from Autonation, will they match and wear the same as the rest of my Jeep?

The third question is about the tire. They've quoted a used replacement wheel and intend to use the old tire and see if it holds air. Do you think the integrity of this tire would be compromised? If it does indeed get replaced, is the few thousand miles of wear differential of the remaining tires an issue?

Thank you so much for your help, I really don't have knowledgeable people in real life that I can go to with these questions.
Click to expand...


They quoted O'Reilly? In the accidents/quotes I've received for my 2010 I've never had them quote non-factory parts unless it was to replace an aftermarket part I had installed.

IMO Crown makes ok replacement parts if you're paying out of pocket but if it's insurance covered I'd demand they use only Mopar factory replacement parts.

Are you dealing direct with the person's insurance company that hit you?
 
jeeeep said:
They quoted O'Reilly? In the accidents/quotes I've received for my 2010 I've never had them quote non-factory parts unless it was to replace an aftermarket part I had installed.

IMO Crown makes ok replacement parts if you're paying out of pocket but if it's insurance covered I'd demand they use only Mopar factory replacement parts.

Are you dealing direct with the person's insurance company that hit you?
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Yeah, I thought O'Reilly was odd too. they provide a web link to the parts and it goes to O'Reilly. Yes, I'm dealing with the guy's insurance, Geico. I will insist on Mopar parts...I'm considering calling in my insurance, I think I'd like their adjuster to look at it.
 
Go OEM.

Dealer can tell you your factory axle ratio with your VIN (VIN number for Overlander).

After installation, you can jack up a tire and spin it and count the driveline rotations to determine the gear ratio.
 
OverlanderJK said:
Why would you not go to the dealer and get factory parts. This is gonna end bad for you I can see it already.


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I know right? I don't like it either, as I stated above, I think I'll get my insurance adjuster to look at it. If I cough up my $1000 deductible, they go to bat for me and eventually get my $1000 back. :sigh: The whole thing sucks. It doesn't help that I'm also dealing with health issues, related to stress.
 
WJCO said:
Go OEM.

Dealer can tell you your factory axle ratio with your VIN (VIN number for Overlander).

After installation, you can jack up a tire and spin it and count the driveline rotations to determine the gear ratio.
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Okay, thank you...I've heard of that method, but haven't given it a spin. ;) Eddie and I were discussing that when I bought these wheels from him.
 
Nataqua said:
I know right? I don't like it either, as I stated above, I think I'll get my insurance adjuster to look at it. If I cough up my $1000 deductible, they go to bat for me and eventually get my $1000 back. :sigh: The whole thing sucks. It doesn't help that I'm also dealing with health issues, related to stress.
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Why would you pay your deductible? You weren’t at fault. Why even go to their recommended shop. Go where you want to go. You are not at fault.


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WJCO said:
Go OEM.

Dealer can tell you your factory axle ratio with your VIN (VIN number for Overlander).

After installation, you can jack up a tire and spin it and count the driveline rotations to determine the gear ratio.
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or put it in 4 high and see if it moves without roasting a tire. If the front doesn't match the back somethings not gonna move right. Whoever you take it to get repaired is responsible for putting it back to the way it was, it only gets confusing if you try to take cash pay out instead, on a newer vehicle its better to get it repaired and not worry about the cash value pay out.
 
Snboarder113 said:
or put it in 4 high and see if it moves without roasting a tire. If the front doesn't match the back somethings not gonna move right. Whoever you take it to get repaired is responsible for putting it back to the way it was, it only gets confusing if you try to take cash pay out instead, on a newer vehicle its better to get it repaired and not worry about the cash value pay out.
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Good point, thank you. right, it's a 2015 with only 15000 mi and I just bought it 3 months ago, so it's gonna take a lot of damage to total it. It sucks either way, seems.
 
OverlanderJK said:
Why would you not go to the dealer and get factory parts. This is gonna end bad for you I can see it already.


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Click to expand...

WJCO said:
Go OEM.

Dealer can tell you your factory axle ratio with your VIN (VIN number for Overlander).

After installation, you can jack up a tire and spin it and count the driveline rotations to determine the gear ratio.
Click to expand...

^^ This x’s 100! The insurance company cannot force you to go with non-OEM parts installed by Billy Bob’s Auto Palace. Take it to Lithia and get a real estimate for OEM parts to be installed by the dealer...especially if you still have a warranty on the rest of the vehicle.

Take that estimate to the insurance company, plus what it will cost you to have a rental car while the dealership fixes your Jeep. I wouldn’t take a penny less and, whatever you do, don’t sign a freakin thing the insurance company puts in front of you unless they have made you 100% whole.

If the insurance company plays games, file a lawsuit against the driver. The driver will then tender the lawsuit to their insurance. The insurance company will settle the claim if it is within policy limits to avoid a bad faith claim from their insured (the driver).

I’ll say it again to be crystal clear...you are entitled to be made 100% whole as if the accident never occurred.
 
BaddestCross said:
You shouldn't be dealing with the other insurance anyway. You pay for insurance so they make sure you get taken care of. If the other party is found to be at fault you shouldn't have to pay the deductible period.

--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
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SIgh...I get conflicting reports about that. I've spoken to the 1-800 number people for my insurance, State Farm, and my local agent. They both say that require the deductible to 'start a claim'. I'll call my agent again tomorrow.
 
Sharkey said:
^^ This x’s 100! The insurance company cannot force you to go with non-OEM parts installed by Billy Bob’s Auto Palace. Take it to Lithia and get a real estimate for OEM parts to be installed by the dealer...especially if you still have a warranty on the rest of the vehicle.

Take that estimate to the insurance company, plus what it will cost you to have a rental car while the dealership fixes your Jeep. I wouldn’t take a penny less and, whatever you do, don’t sign a freakin thing the insurance company puts in front of you unless they have made you 100% whole.

If the insurance company plays games, file a lawsuit against the driver. The driver will then tender the lawsuit to their insurance. The insurance company will settle the claim if it is within policy limits to avoid a bad faith claim from their insured (the driver).

I’ll say it again to be crystal clear...you are entitled to be made 100% whole as if the accident never occurred.
Click to expand...

I would listen to this guy. I think he read a lawyer book while he was bored once.


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Nataqua said:
SIgh...I get conflicting reports about that. I've spoken to the 1-800 number people for my insurance, State Farm, and my local agent. They both say that require the deductible to 'start a claim'. I'll call my agent again tomorrow.
Click to expand...

If you initiate a claim with your own insurance you could end up getting rated even if you were not at fault. I’ve seen it happen.
 
Sharkey said:
^^ This x’s 100! The insurance company cannot force you to go with non-OEM parts installed by Billy Bob’s Auto Palace. Take it to Lithia and get a real estimate for OEM parts to be installed by the dealer...especially if you still have a warranty on the rest of the vehicle.

Take that estimate to the insurance company, plus what it will cost you to have a rental car while the dealership fixes your Jeep. I wouldn’t take a penny less and, whatever you do, don’t sign a freakin thing the insurance company puts in front of you unless they have made you 100% whole.

If the insurance company plays games, file a lawsuit against the driver. The driver will then tender the lawsuit to their insurance. The insurance company will settle the claim if it is within policy limits to avoid a bad faith claim from their insured (the driver).

I’ll say it again to be crystal clear...you are entitled to be made 100% whole as if the accident never occurred.
Click to expand...

OverlanderJK said:
I would listen to this guy. I think he read a lawyer book while he was bored once.
.


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Sharkey said:
If you initiate a claim with your own insurance you could end up getting rated even if you were not at fault. I’ve seen it happen.
Click to expand...

Except that it needs to be towed to Lithia...I'll figure out how to get that done. I get it...Lithia has no investment other than to make my Jeep right regardless of cost, the rest are in each other's pockets. I didn't realize that about getting rated, thank you for that info too, Mr Sharkey.
 
OverlanderJK said:
Why would you pay your deductible? You weren’t at fault. Why even go to their recommended shop. Go where you want to go. You are not at fault.
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BaddestCross said:
If the other party is found to be at fault you shouldn't have to pay the deductible period.
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Nataqua said:
SIgh...I get conflicting reports about that. I've spoken to the 1-800 number people for my insurance, State Farm, and my local agent. They both say that require the deductible to 'start a claim'. I'll call my agent again tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Depends on how fast you want it fixed. If the other driver has decent insurance, the claim should be paid quickly and you shouldn't have to deal with the deductible. However, sometimes to get the claim going faster and get your vehicle repaired faster, your own insurance will pay the claim minus the deductible while they seek compensation from the other driver's insurance, which you will likely eventually get your deductible refunded.

I've had two accidents in the last 5 years where other drivers (both uninsured) were at fault. Each time, I had to pay my deductible to get repairs going quickly. One was an honest mistake where the driver of the other car didn't realize that their parent (who owned the car) had the insurance expire about a month prior. They made it right and it took a few months but I was refunded and all is good.

The other one was a mess and the driver had no license, no insurance and caused major injury to two people in a third party car. The district attorney got involved and this was years ago. This driver has to compensate court restitution first, then medical bills, then compensate me for my deductible. The judge ordered that she pay interest to all parties as well. However, this accident occurred about 5 years ago and I've only received 300 dollars of my 1000 dollar deductible. With interest, I should receive about 1300 someday. The district attorney told me up front that uninsured driver claims like this takes years. I don't even own that vehicle anymore.
 
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