Control Arm Question

Roamerjk

Roamerjk

New member
Hey Everyone, I am looking at upgrading my control arms for adjustability and also to help center the rear wheel better. Is It Best to replace all 8 at once or slowly start replacing them? Do all of them need to be replaced? I am looking at the RockJock Arms or going with Evo Arms. I want a high quality product that I don't have to worry about.
Thank You
 
Roamerjk said:
Hey Everyone, I am looking at upgrading my control arms for adjustability and also to help center the rear wheel better. Is It Best to replace all 8 at once or slowly start replacing them? Do all of them need to be replaced? I am looking at the RockJock Arms or going with Evo Arms. I want a high quality product that I don't have to worry about.
Thank You
Click to expand...
Most people start with front lower control arms, and really that's all most need for caster correction after installing a lift kit. Control arms will do nothing to center an axle - track bars do that. Complete lift kits provide track bar relocation brackets that correct for roll center and offset for the amount of the lift. If you find you still need to correct the axle centering you can get an adjustable trackbar.

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Looking at your avatar, I see that you have a 2-door? If that's true and you're lifted, you should already be needing rear upper arms to set your pinon angle being that you really should be running an aftermarket double cardan drive shaft. As far as centering your rear wheels go, you need to remember that your axle travels in an arc as in, at a full stuff, it will be centered. If you adjust your axle too far back to make it "look" centered at a ride height, your coils will rub your track bar and you tires will rub the tub at a full stuff. A small amount of adjustment is nice but really, anything more than 1/4" or so will be too much.
 
in order of importance, Front lowers, rear uppers. Then, if you just want to do it, rear lowers and front uppers.

Check out Clayton Overland+ with the GIIRO joints. i'm incredibly impressed with mine and the price point is fantastic.
 
You can never go wrong with an Evo control arm. I do have synergy arms in the rear that someday I’ll be able to give you a ride update on lol


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wayoflife said:
Looking at your avatar, I see that you have a 2-door? If that's true and you're lifted, you should already be needing rear upper arms to set your pinon angle being that you really should be running an aftermarket double cardan drive shaft. As far as centering your rear wheels go, you need to remember that your axle travels in an arc as in, at a full stuff, it will be centered. If you adjust your axle too far back to make it "look" centered at a ride height, your coils will rub your track bar and you tires will rub the tub at a full stuff. A small amount of adjustment is nice but really, anything more than 1/4" or so will be too much.
Click to expand...

yes I am lifted 2.5 inches, I'm thinking of replacing all 8 to get it over with and then driveshafts are next on the list for me. I am thinking of going to a 3.5 lift so I was waiting on that decision before driveshafts. I didn't consider the coils rubbing the track bar. thanks for the input I appreciate it!
 
Roamerjk said:
yes I am lifted 2.5 inches, I'm thinking of replacing all 8 to get it over with and then driveshafts are next on the list for me. I am thinking of going to a 3.5 lift so I was waiting on that decision before driveshafts. I didn't consider the coils rubbing the track bar. thanks for the input I appreciate it!
Click to expand...

I have a Rock Krawler 3.5 inch lift that replaced every suspension component and moved the rear axle back an inch. I had to do a lot of work to make this kit work for me. Which included fabricating a rear track bar relocation bracket so the track bar would not rub on the passenger side rear coil spring.


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I agree on the front lower and rear uppers. I have a 2-door with 2.5” lift as well. I did front track bar and front lowers, then front uppers, then rear uppers. Wish I had done rear uppers early as it cost me a split CV boot on the stock DS; it was an absolute must when I replaced it with the Adams double cardan for the rear.
 
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