Colorado locker question?

Colorado2003

Colorado2003

New member
Looking at the best locker set up for a daily driver in Colorado. I, like many others have a budget and would like to set up my 2010 JKU. Thought I would start with locking the front then this fall locking the rear. Need to know if a lunchbox locker up front would be ok or if you guys recommend a selectable. Open for discussion so help me out if able. Thanks.
 
Colorado2003 said:
Looking at the best locker set up for a daily driver in Colorado. I, like many others have a budget and would like to set up my 2010 JKU. Thought I would start with locking the front then this fall locking the rear. Need to know if a lunchbox locker up front would be ok or if you guys recommend a selectable. Open for discussion so help me out if able. Thanks.
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If your profile is up to date, I am assuming you have a D30 front axle. If that's the case, don't waste your money on a locker. The D30 just can't handle it.
 
Ok. I did sleeve and gusset the Dana 30. Do you still think I should just wait till I though new axels under it? Moderate wheeling as of now.
 
Colorado2003 said:
Ok. I did sleeve and gusset the Dana 30. Do you still think I should just wait till I though new axels under it? Moderate wheeling as of now.
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If you are looking to put a locker in, lock the rear 44. That would be a good setup until you swap out the axles.
 
ERAUGrad04 said:
If you are looking to put a locker in, lock the rear 44. That would be a good setup until you swap out the axles.
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Go this route. I have a 2009 sport with a D30 and even though I regeared to 513s do not lock the front. Not worth the money. I locked the rear with an ARB and couldn't be happier. And I'm in Fort Collins.
 
I wouldn't lock the front. For the rear lunchbox lockers are cool but id get a selectable. way better as a daily driver and less harsh on the axle when unlocked.
 
I regeared to 5.13 and put an Eaton TrueTrac in the rear a while ago. Busted the axle housing on my D30 a few weeks ago (had the c gussets and control arm bracket skids, but not sleeved). Not sure sleeved would have helped.

I'm doing a Tera30 replacement housing and leaving the front open as that's the cheapest reasonable option for me and funds are low. I don't trust a Craigslist D44 and can't afford a ProRock 44. I seriously considered the G2 Core44 though. Ended up just being too much $$$ right now.
 
I would avoid an ARB with the constant weather changes condensation forms and during the winter there is the possibility of parts freezing and breaking. The Eaton is the way I am going. And for the cost I would look into the Mopar 60's for replacement axles. Way cheaper than many of the aftermarket parts out there. But when it comes down to building your jeep it's all up to you man. That's the best part about these money pits we get to make them our own any way we want.
 
Rmorin222 said:
I would avoid an ARB with the constant weather changes condensation forms and during the winter there is the possibility of parts freezing and breaking. The Eaton is the way I am going. And for the cost I would look into the Mopar 60's for replacement axles. Way cheaper than many of the aftermarket parts out there. But when it comes down to building your jeep it's all up to you man. That's the best part about these money pits we get to make them our own any way we want.
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I have never heard the possibility of an ARB freezing due to weather. You have any info on that? Just curious more than anything.
 
hbkid22 said:
I have never heard the possibility of an ARB freezing due to weather. You have any info on that? Just curious more than anything.
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With the insane temp swings and the drastic changes in altitude we can have here (your very aware of being in FOCO) condensation forms at the fittings on top of the differential and has the very good chance of freezing and since brass is very weak it tends to Crack often. I would consider yourself very lucky to not have that problem yet. Maintain ARB components like you do the rest of your jeep and you should be ok.
 
Here in St. Louis, we have drastic weather changes and lots of moisture/condensation. ARB lines have been known to build up condensation and then freeze, preventing the air from passing thru the lines locking the diffs. Occasionally even splitting a line.
 
I put a lunchbox locker in my D30. I had no gussets or trusses. I definitely noticed on tight turns. I only had it in for 2 weeks and never wheeled it. Probably a good thing because id be scared of snapping my D30. After putting a lunchbox locker in the front i probably would have rather done a selectable in the rear and then just saved up for an upgraded axle in the front.

Its all a money pit! Hope you throw your money into one of the good pits!
 
Being the engineer that I am... I researched the ARB a ton before pulling the trigger on one for myself.

Something I found in common with those who claimed condensation issues is that they all ran an air system with a tank and also used the air source to fill tires. The added air capacity and compressor run time greatly adds the potential for generating condensation. I noticed my Viair spits water after filling two tires. For this reason I opted to run a dedicated compressor for the locker. I went with an ARB and since it is only filling a very small manifold it's run time is very short. Additionally it pulls its supply from withing the cab where the dryer air should be.

Honestly, I don't know how bad this issue is and I've never been to CO so I can't comment on the climate changes. I just thought I would share what I did to hopefully mitigate the potential issue.
 
cfr said:
I regeared to 5.13 and put an Eaton TrueTrac in the rear a while ago. Busted the axle housing on my D30 a few weeks ago (had the c gussets and control arm bracket skids, but not sleeved). Not sure sleeved would have helped.

I'm doing a Tera30 replacement housing and leaving the front open as that's the cheapest reasonable option for me and funds are low. I don't trust a Craigslist D44 and can't afford a ProRock 44. I seriously considered the G2 Core44 though. Ended up just being too much $$$ right now.
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If you don't mind, I'm going to jump in on the G2 Core 44 thing here. I purchased my 2015 Rubicon and lifted it 3.5", sold the factory axles and put in G2 Core 44's with ARB air lockers front and rear and 5:13's. To round it off I'm running 37" MT/R's. The G2's are 3" x 5/16" tubes with 3/8" reinforcing at all critical areas. All brackets are 1/4" and the ball joints are 1 ton. The best part, made in the USA, and they offer Military, Veteran, Fire and Police discounts. Everyone on here will steer you to Dynatrac and swear G2's are lesser axles. Well, I say this, I have them and they are extremely well build, same specs as the PR44 unless you upgrade to the top of the line one, and they work great for me. So that said. I highly recommend them and you'll save quite a bit of money too.
 
USMCvet, thanks for the response. I've been looking at new axles for a while but I can't afford a PR44 and I have been looking at the G244. Your response is very helpful.
 
Just as a reference, I am running a D30 with 5.13's and an ARB locker in front and I have wheeled it pretty hard and have yet to break it, but I expect to break it anytime and I have a PR44 unlimited on order to replace it. I wouldn't waste your money locking a D30 unless it is your only route at the moment but beware, because it's not if it will break but when when will it break and I wouldn't hesitate for a second to buy the G2 axle, it's a great setup, I went for the Prorock because I had specific wants and a great deal just happened at the time.
 
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