Clear coat sun/salt damage? Or factory paint hitting its lifespan?

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kferrarini

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So this is a new development. Started about 6 weeks ago and is very rapidly spreading over entire front of 2011 JK.[emoji35] at first i thought it was the reflection off my Delta light eating the paint (that was where it first appeared) but now its lot of places.

I assume sun/salty air damage (moved to Puerto Rico last year). Had 6 hard years of sun in El Paso TX before that too though.

Is there any way to slow or stop this bullshit?

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From my experience, there's not much you can do. My hood an fenders did the same thing. I sanded it all off and repainted.
 
Mine is garaged, so I can be lazy on the wax. Whenever the water stops beading up on the paint when washing it, it's time for a coat of clear spray on wax. That stuff is so much easier to apply than the old paste wax, there really no excuse not to do it.
 
zimm said:
Time for a paint job. Next time wax it.
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The Truth right here.

You can TRY to slow it down with a sealant/wax (especially if the clouds fade if you get it wet). It will likely need reapply 1-2 times a month to hide the clear peel... but ultimately, its time for a paint job... and keep up with paint protection next time around... Ive been down this road before.

SOME people CLAIM you can tape off, wet sand and just re-clear the effected areas but that would open a whole new list of problems for me (Blending Clear) :twocents:

So, ultimately, what color you going to do? :yup:

EDIT: Everyone gives me shit when I detail my jeep... YES, I'm going wheeling in 3 days, YES i KNOW its "just going to get dirty again", but, DIRT washes off, DAMAGE doesn't... Even if its just sun/corrosion damage.
 
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rockwell said:
Better then the rust we get up here


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Oh we get rust down here too! 2 miles from the bay, with unreal humidity.
DWiggles said:
The Truth right here.

You can TRY to slow it down with a sealant/wax (especially if the clouds fade if you get it wet). It will likely need reapply 1-2 times a month to hide the clear peel... but ultimately, its time for a paint job... and keep up with paint protection next time around... Ive been down this road before.

SOME people CLAIM you can tape off, wet sand and just re-clear the effected areas but that would open a whole new list of problems for me (Blending Clear) :twocents:

So, ultimately, what color you going to do? :yup:

EDIT: Everyone gives me shit when I detail my jeep... YES, I'm going wheeling in 3 days, YES i KNOW its "just going to get dirty again", but, DIRT washes off, DAMAGE doesn't... Even if its just sun/corrosion damage.
Click to expand...


Sent from my SM-G935P using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
DWiggles said:
The Truth right here.

You can TRY to slow it down with a sealant/wax (especially if the clouds fade if you get it wet). It will likely need reapply 1-2 times a month to hide the clear peel... but ultimately, its time for a paint job... and keep up with paint protection next time around... Ive been down this road before.

SOME people CLAIM you can tape off, wet sand and just re-clear the effected areas but that would open a whole new list of problems for me (Blending Clear) :twocents:

So, ultimately, what color you going to do? :yup:

EDIT: Everyone gives me shit when I detail my jeep... YES, I'm going wheeling in 3 days, YES i KNOW its "just going to get dirty again", but, DIRT washes off, DAMAGE doesn't... Even if its just sun/corrosion damage.
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In El Paso and at Benning I really kept up with the detailing. No issues there. Its just been this past year in PR that I slacked off, maybe waxed twice. Goes to show ya...constant vigilance.

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Not sure but could you take it to someone todo a paint correct and ceramic coat on it? I did it for my truck but it didn’t have that type of damage, it was about 1k not sure if it’s worth that for a jeep you wheel.


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Hate too see that happen, you could blend the paint and the reclear the whole jeep.

But going through all that trouble I would just repaint the entire Jeep if you plan on keeping it.

Just my opinion.
 
I am thinking about doing tinted raptor liner, anything but black.. Not sure though.

Did the fenders,bumper and grill in black and it worked out great, was pretty easy.

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kferrarini said:
I am thinking about doing tinted raptor liner, anything but black.. Not sure though.

Did the fenders,bumper and grill in black and it worked out great, was pretty easy.

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Personally I’m Not a fan of the look. But I really do see the appeal. No scratches, not likely for things like hail damage, more UV resistant. I’m not even sure how many hours I’ve spent buffing my jeep from tree branch scratches at this point.


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tippedover said:
Not sure but could you take it to someone todo a paint correct and ceramic coat on it
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Paint correction wont work, whats happening here is the clear is failing. it will need to be addressed with removal of the effective "dry" clear and fresh clear applied.

I'm still on the fence about the Ceramic stuff. Ive heard lots of mixed info. some say it lasts, some don't. most say the water replant properties are exaggerated, etc. I'ed be curious to hear more of your first hand experience. if you have any to share. either for, or against.

19YJ94 said:
Hate too see that happen, you could blend the paint and the reclear the whole jeep.

But going through all that trouble I would just repaint the entire Jeep if you plan on keeping it.

Just my opinion.
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Yup, with the amount of work you would have to put in (or pay for someone else to do) you might as well just repaint the whole car. the only thing you would be saving at this point is a few passes with the gun and the cost of paint...

I-Eat-Mud said:
I’m not even sure how many hours I’ve spent buffing my jeep from tree branch scratches at this point.
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Be careful if your using a cut compound to take the scratches out... the clear is only so thick... Once you thin it out, you may end up like the OP...

I'ed recommend just Clay Bar, a gentle polish and wax regularly...

If you are serious about your paint, NEVER Touch it with a pad until after its been clayed, and only paint correct when the paint as a whole starts to look a little dull. :twocents:

again, I've been down this road before.
 
DWiggles said:
Be careful if your using a cut compound to take the scratches out... the clear is only so thick... Once you thin it out, you may end up like the OP...

I'ed recommend just Clay Bar, a gentle polish and wax regularly...

If you are serious about your paint, NEVER Touch it with a pad until after its been clayed, and only paint correct when the paint as a whole starts to look a little dull. :twocents:

again, I've been down this road before.
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That’s great advice. I only use the orbital if I’ve clay barred. I don’t like using any cutting compounds either, I have some that sometimes I have to use. I use spray wax every time I wash it, seems to help quite a bit. Although all the visible paint I really have left at this point is my front fenders and hood... lol
 
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