Changing rotors

Devallee

Devallee

New member
So I pulled my rotors and found some years of fun stuck inside my e-brake contraption. My question is, can I spray some simple green or something of the sorts in there and hose it out? Or would it mess something up? Does it need to be greased anywhere or something? Thanks in advance ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1460152478.895692.jpg
 
clean away.. apply grease to any sliding (non breaking surface) area after if you want.. not much there..
 
Simple green should work fine. Follow up with a can of brake clean after it's dry to get the pads and drum surface clean again.
 
I wouldn't use simple green, that's just me. Don't want residue left there afterwards. Get some Brakeclean from parts store and wear safety glasses.
 
Looks like the shoes are rotting. I would check the lining integrity with a putty knife - pry on it lightly just to make sure the fasteners are holding good. Don't go crazy and crack or chip the corners - go easy! Now is the time to replace them if needed since you already have it mostly apart.
 
Water and a brush is all I use did it last weekend. Then I gave the shoes and rotors a quick scuff with sandpaper to get the ingrained stuff out.
 
Hit it with brake cleaner and call it a day. It will work just fine and you don't have to worry about messing anything up.
 
Thanks for all of the quick replies! Since I have some of you here....would there be any suggestions on what brand rotors to replace my old rotors with? As much as I'd love to pay $100 per rotor from the stealership.....I don't. Just looking for a good OEM replacement
 
I just put on the Napa premium rotors a couple weeks ago. I was very impressed at the quality of them and the price was great. Paid. $35 ea USD.
 
explorebc4x4 said:
I just put on the Napa premium rotors a couple weeks ago. I was very impressed at the quality of them and the price was great. Paid. $35 ea USD.
Click to expand...

Ended up going with O'Reilly ones since they're local. 40 bucks a piece they'll do for now. Maybe I'll upgrade next time around. Thanks for the help guys my baby's back on the road! :thumb:
 
Devallee said:
Thanks for all of the quick replies! Since I have some of you here....would there be any suggestions on what brand rotors to replace my old rotors with? As much as I'd love to pay $100 per rotor from the stealership.....I don't. Just looking for a good OEM replacement
Click to expand...

Just looked at your profile. Being that you're running 35s, I would definitely upgrade the brakes at some point, but if you're looking for a quick OEM replacement, I've had good luck with any parts store replacements. At the same time if they've been on the shelf for awhile, I've had several cases of warped rotors right out of the box. Those can be machined if there's an issue. Most of them are 20 bucks a piece, so you pay for what you get, but for basic safety, they're fine. Post some pics of your train horns by the way.
 
If your rotors aren't damaged and you have access to a lathe you can re-surface them or drop them at a local auto parts store and they can do it or have it done for a fraction of the cost.
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1460171760.822477.jpg
Adjust to less than .005" runout or less at the mounting flange. 100 surface feet per minute / .024 inches per revolution. Re-machine both sides of the rotor during the same setup yo control parallelism to .002" or less.
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1460171809.967742.jpg
Left is before / Right is after. Minimum rotor thickness is stamped or cast on the rotor. Find it & Respect it!
 
sipafz said:
If your rotors aren't damaged and you have access to a lathe you can re-surface them or drop them at a local auto parts store and they can do it or have it done for a fraction of the cost.
View attachment 197133
Adjust to less than .005" runout or less at the mounting flange. 100 surface feet per minute / .024 inches per revolution. Re-machine both sides of the rotor during the same setup yo control parallelism to .002" or less.
View attachment 197135
Left is before / Right is after. Minimum rotor thickness is stamped or cast on the rotor. Find it & Respect it!
Click to expand...

This can be helpful with good quality rotors and with that you probably don't need to turn them. However cheaper rotors are just gonna wear out even faster after you turn them. Since your just making the cheap thin metal even thinner. I'd advise against it and just buy quality brake parts
 
sipafz said:
If your rotors aren't damaged and you have access to a lathe you can re-surface them or drop them at a local auto parts store and they can do it or have it done for a fraction of the cost.
View attachment 197133
Adjust to less than .005" runout or less at the mounting flange. 100 surface feet per minute / .024 inches per revolution. Re-machine both sides of the rotor during the same setup yo control parallelism to .002" or less.
View attachment 197135
Left is before / Right is after. Minimum rotor thickness is stamped or cast on the rotor. Find it & Respect it!
Click to expand...

Yeah I tried to get them resurfaced at O'Reillys and 2 outta 4 of them were not within spec so they wouldn't do it so I just bought all 4 new ones and called it a day. Got 75k miles outta them so I'm not even mad
 
WJCO said:
Just looked at your profile. Being that you're running 35s, I would definitely upgrade the brakes at some point, but if you're looking for a quick OEM replacement, I've had good luck with any parts store replacements. At the same time if they've been on the shelf for awhile, I've had several cases of warped rotors right out of the box. Those can be machined if there's an issue. Most of them are 20 bucks a piece, so you pay for what you get, but for basic safety, they're fine. Post some pics of your train horns by the way.
Click to expand...

I actually don't have em on anymore. I ended up having to pull it out a couple years ago because I got a ticket and just never took the time to put it all back in again (I HATE doing plumbing and electrical stuff). Actually planning on throwing em in my miata when I decide to take the time to do it one day since that's more of my daily now. Probably one of my favorite mods tho definitely worth it
 
JeepinLife said:
This can be helpful with good quality rotors and with that you probably don't need to turn them. However cheaper rotors are just gonna wear out even faster after you turn them. Since your just making the cheap thin metal even thinner. I'd advise against it and just buy quality brake parts
Click to expand...

Sounded like the OP had the stock setup and original OEM rotors which are defiantly worth re-surfacing if they are not damaged (grooved from the linings being worn through).
I disagree with your statement "good quality rotors and with that you probably don't need to turn them". What exactly are you suggesting? That you should just replace pads without re-surfacing or replacing the rotors? I hope not!
The rotors pictured are from my 2003 KJ with 150k. Last fall I decided the replace the pads & shoes. I measured up the rotors and found that I had .035" above the low limit. I turned about .01" from each side and voila, like new rotors. In all it cost $85 for ceramic pads and standard shoes plus about four hours to turn the rotors and complete the job. Good for another 150k!
 
Devallee said:
Yeah I tried to get them resurfaced at O'Reillys and 2 outta 4 of them were not within spec so they wouldn't do it so I just bought all 4 new ones and called it a day. Got 75k miles outta them so I'm not even mad
Click to expand...

Bummer, but like I mentioned, you don't want the run them if the are under the minimum thickness! So $160 for rotors, $100 for new pads? $35 for new shoes? Still way ahead of a co-worker of mine the recently paid $800 to do all 4 wheels recently. Kudos to you!
 
sipafz said:
Sounded like the OP had the stock setup and original OEM rotors which are defiantly worth re-surfacing if they are not damaged (grooved from the linings being worn through).
I disagree with your statement "good quality rotors and with that you probably don't need to turn them". What exactly are you suggesting? That you should just replace pads without re-surfacing or replacing the rotors? I hope not!
The rotors pictured are from my 2003 KJ with 150k. Last fall I decided the replace the pads & shoes. I measured up the rotors and found that I had .035" above the low limit. I turned about .01" from each side and voila, like new rotors. In all it cost $85 for ceramic pads and standard shoes plus about four hours to turn the rotors and complete the job. Good for another 150k!
Click to expand...

No I was suggesting that with a good quality pad and rotor your probably will never have to turn them do to the fact that they wear correctly. Given that you actually service and take of your brakes correctly. I still stick to my previous statement that turning rotors may only buy you a short amount of time until your underling issue return or you need to replace anyways. If you can actually get that many miles out of yours by doing so that's awesome!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom