Caster angle. Advice appreciated

2

2trackin

New member
I just finished up my rock krawler 3.5" max travel lift. Followed the instructions given for starting point lengths of control arms. This yielded a 0* caster in front. Obviously in needed to adjust. I backed off the lower control arms 8 turns, which made torquing the jam nuts much easier. This gave me about 6* caster and handles much better. Zero vibes and goes dowm the road straight. But I still feel a little bit of the darty effect especially on a rough road. I see that a lot of people set caster between 5-7* and being I'm at 6 (as per my cheapo angle finder siting atop of the ball joint) it doesn't seem like another half a degree is going to change it much.
Should I keep going more like 8-9*?
Or maybe just take it to a shop now since I'm thinking I'm fairly close and have them dial it in for me?
What do you guys think?


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i believe the factory caster is 4* if im not mistaken.

this little section is from the Death wobble sticky posted by eddie. says 4.2*
"Lifting a Jeep will effect your caster and it is important that you have it set as close to the factory +4.2° as possible. Having more is better but, that can cause driveline vibrations and that's not something you'd want to have."
 
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cozdude said:
i believe the factory caster is 4* if im not mistaken.

this little section is from the Death wobble sticky posted by eddie. says 4.2*
"Lifting a Jeep will effect your caster and it is important that you have it set as close to the factory +4.2° as possible. Having more is better but, that can cause driveline vibrations and that's not something you'd want to have."
Click to expand...

Thanks, I have checked that out. But every vehicle is different. While it does drive fine. I'd actually like a little less response from steering wheel input. Living in Michigan with our terrible roads, hitting bumps and potholes make you bounce around and having a little more forgiveness in steering input would be nice.


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2trackin said:
Thanks, I have checked that out. But every vehicle is different. While it does drive fine. I'd actually like a little less response from steering wheel input. Living in Michigan with our terrible roads, hitting bumps and potholes make you bounce around and having a little more forgiveness in steering input would be nice.


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Click to expand...


maybe a drag link flip is in your near future then. that might help tighten things up a little. i know i need it, i get major wheel steer when i hit a big bump now a days and im sure that will help reduce that for me.
 
2trackin said:
I just finished up my rock krawler 3.5" max travel lift. Followed the instructions given for starting point lengths of control arms. This yielded a 0* caster in front. Obviously in needed to adjust. I backed off the lower control arms 8 turns, which made torquing the jam nuts much easier. This gave me about 6* caster and handles much better. Zero vibes and goes dowm the road straight. But I still feel a little bit of the darty effect especially on a rough road. I see that a lot of people set caster between 5-7* and being I'm at 6 (as per my cheapo angle finder siting atop of the ball joint) it doesn't seem like another half a degree is going to change it much.
Should I keep going more like 8-9*?
Or maybe just take it to a shop now since I'm thinking I'm fairly close and have them dial it in for me?
What do you guys think?


Sent from my SCH-I545 using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

First off, I find it difficult to believe that your 3.5" lift would have yielded 0° of caster but, even if that were the case, INCREASING the length of your lower control arms would have given you more positive caster, NOT shortening them up as you have. Assuming you did have 0° of caster, you would now have NEGATIVE CASTER and that would help keep your vibrations at bay but make your Jeep handle poorly. Not sure where you're measuring from or where you got your info on how to set caster came from but, this link below should help you to get it set right:

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?3861-Basic-Do-it-Yourself-Jeep-JK-Wrangler-Front-End-Alignment
 
Let me clarify this. By "backing off" as I said. I was saying that I was increasing the length by unscrewing the joint. I've done many caster adjustments on previous Jeeps. But this is my first on a jk. I am sitting at +6* caster. And like I said, it's not bad, I can still travel 70-75mph just fine down the highway, although steering input is a little more sensitive than I feel it should be. It's the rougher roads at 50-55 that have me darting around a little more than I like.
I used the lower arms for adjustment. I lengthened the lowers to get the same effect. As shortening the uppers.
My El cheapo angle finder may not be the best, but from the before adjustment angle of 0* it was showing, matching the garage floor of 0* and showing a +6* after adjustment. I knew I was at least headed in the right direction, just thinking it wasn't quite enough.

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2trackin said:
Let me clarify this. By "backing off" as I said. I was saying that I was increasing the length by unscrewing the joint. I've done many caster adjustments on previous Jeeps. But this is my first on a jk. I am sitting at +6* caster. And like I said, it's not bad, I can still travel 70-75mph just fine down the highway, although steering input is a little more sensitive than I feel it should be. It's the rougher roads at 50-55 that have me darting around a little more than I like.
I used the lower arms for adjustment. I lengthened the lowers to get the same effect. As shortening the uppers.
My El cheapo angle finder may not be the best, but from the before adjustment angle of 0* it was showing, matching the garage floor of 0* and showing a +6* after adjustment. I knew I was at least headed in the right direction, just thinking it wasn't quite enough.

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Click to expand...

Well, all I can say is that if you really have +6° of caster, your Jeep should handle great at highway speeds. If you are feeling like your handling is still darty, you may not have your caster set at where you think. But, assuming that you do, have you checked your toe-in to make sure it is correct? Have you checked your PSI to make sure it's not too high? Both can throw off your handling too but, I doubt enough to counter act as much caster as you say you have.
 
Maybe that angle finder isn't very accurate. I didn't change toe from factory at all. (2014 Rubicon with under 1k miles) I do have the high steer setup that came with the rock krawler kit though and that's the only change to any steering. I have my Toyo Mt 37s load range E set to 25psi mounted on Slabs with ceramic balance beads. I have zero vibration at any speed. It does ride pretty stiff almost bouncy, but I've only put 25 miles on it. Seems to be settling in some. Running fox reservoirs as well.


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2trackin said:
Maybe that angle finder isn't very accurate. I didn't change toe from factory at all. (2014 Rubicon with under 1k miles) I do have the high steer setup that came with the rock krawler kit though and that's the only change to any steering. I have my Toyo Mt 37s load range E set to 25psi mounted on Slabs with ceramic balance beads. I have zero vibration at any speed. It does ride pretty stiff almost bouncy, but I've only put 25 miles on it. Seems to be settling in some. Running fox reservoirs as well.


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Try placing your angle finder on the front of your axle diff where the case spreader goes. This flat surface should give you a reading of 0° when your caster is set at +4°.
 
At what degree of caster do u start having drive shaft issues due to the pinion angle?

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TheDuff said:
At what degree of caster do u start having drive shaft issues due to the pinion angle?

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Anything more than a stock +4° but, you only really see it with an aftermarket shaft and when running 5.13 gears or higher.
 
ridg3runner said:
Can you explain it a little better? Aren't the stock driveshafts crap to start with?

We are Jeep..Resistance is futile..
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Actually, the factory drive shafts utilize an rzeppa style CV joint or, at least on the output shaft end of a front drive shaft. This is a very strong joint (way stronger than a 1310 u-joint) and very forgiving of steeper angles when it comes to vibrations. What makes a factory front shaft undesirable is the fact that it is much wider in diameter and has a slip shaft boot that will get damaged on an 07-11 automatic transmission or a 2012-up exhaust cross over regardless of what transmission you have. Also when it is subject to a steeper angle as would be the case with a lift, the CV boot will be in a constant state of pinch and this will lead to it failing prematurely. It is because of these reasons that people replace them with new aftermarket u-joint style double cardan shafts.
 
I checked the caster again with the front of the diff. Right at 90* like it is supposed to be. That would be stock caster angle right? Should it be a little more? I have found that at highways speeds. It's just fine. It's those 55mph Michigan roads that give me a little shimmy effect and the darty feeling.

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I've found that I like 6-7 degrees castor on JKs. As long as no driveline vibrations occur, the extra castor helps to calm the steering a bit.
 
2trackin said:
Thanks, I have checked that out. But every vehicle is different. While it does drive fine. I'd actually like a little less response from steering wheel input. Living in Michigan with our terrible roads, hitting bumps and potholes make you bounce around and having a little more forgiveness in steering input would be nice.


Sent from my SCH-I545 using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Do u have a drag link flip already? If not, look into one, I've been told by numerous people that it is a night and day difference:)

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TheDuff said:
Do u have a drag link flip already? If not, look into one, I've been told by numerous people that it is a night and day difference:)

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Click to expand...

Yes I do.

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