Cage padding

Jimmypaget

Jimmypaget

Member
When I had my rockhard cage put in, the installer took out and left out all my padding for the stock cage, so painfully I cut and zipped it back on the Best I could however it left a couple spots looking chewed up looking. So I’m thinking of taking it all off again and leaving it bare. Does anyone have any pics of the full rockhard and Factory cage with no padding or covers?


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I don’t have any pics. What I can tell you is that after I installed the rock hard cage, I was concerned about whacking my head on the cage in an accident or extreme maneuver. So I added the rock hard padding kit.


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fiend said:
I don’t have any pics. What I can tell you is that after I installed the rock hard cage, I was concerned about whacking my head on the cage in an accident or extreme maneuver. So I added the rock hard padding kit.


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I did the same.


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I like the look and seen it. You only hit your head once. Back in the day real Jeep's did not come with padding.
 
Back in high school I had a friend almost knock herself out hopping into my TJ that had padding on it. Padding just softens the blow but, it could make the difference in loosening your teeth or bleeding. Lol


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I’m thinking of removing all the padding and color painting the whole cage in the Brick when I get it installed, except the dash bar, bubba said not to make that one shiny


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JKbrick said:
I’m thinking of removing all the padding and color painting the whole cage in the Brick when I get it installed, except the dash bar, bubba said not to make that one shiny


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I did have the powder coater use matt finish on the dash bar. Glad I did!


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Jimmypaget said:
Does anyone have any pics of the full rockhard and Factory cage with no padding or covers?
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I left the padding off of the front of mine but the cheap fuckers at FCA don't paint the bars above the rear wheel wells body color - its primer only so it looks stupid. You can get a can of spray paint made up to match your paint code at auto body supply stores, so you can paint it yourself. I plan on doing this over the Winter & taking the padding completely off.

And yes, definitely paint the dash bar flat so it blends into the dash. Even with that It takes a little getting used to having that bar there...
 
Ddays said:
I left the padding off of the front of mine but the cheap fuckers at FCA don't paint the bars above the rear wheel wells body color - its primer only so it looks stupid. You can get a can of spray paint made up to match your paint code at auto body supply stores, so you can paint it yourself. I plan on doing this over the Winter & taking the padding completely off.

And yes, definitely paint the dash bar flat so it blends into the dash. Even with that It takes a little getting used to having that bar there...
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I’m short so even with my seat pumped up as high as it goes the dash bar really impacted my vision to much. I used hockey pucks to raise my seat a tad more but now I’m debating the pdding since I’m closer to walking my head on the center section
 
TxCrushinJKUR said:
I’m short so even with my seat pumped up as high as it goes the dash bar really impacted my vision to much. I used hockey pucks to raise my seat a tad more but now I’m debating the pdding since I’m closer to walking my head on the center section
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I had to make a 3" lift for the passenger seat for the 5 foot tall wife🤣. Her view forward was directly at that bar.
 
Ddays said:
I had to make a 3" lift for the passenger seat for the 5 foot tall wife[emoji1787]. Her view forward was directly at that bar.
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I was going to ask you about that. Do you think the aluminum pucks you made are structurally rigid enough? I know you wouldn’t risk your wife, but wondering what your observations have been. I’m considering doing the same thing.


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Coop said:
I was going to ask you about that. Do you think the aluminum pucks you made are structurally rigid enough? I know you wouldn’t risk your wife, but wondering what your observations have been. I’m considering doing the same thing.


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I sweated that out. I'm certainly no structural engineer but I honestly dont see that it would make a significant difference being 3" higher? I mean she will raise the driver seat all the way up and that's about 3" as well. Granted the mounts stay stationary but the COG of the seat is raised the same amount soooo? IDK, does my reasoning sound valid?

Edit. I've tried moving the seat once it was bolted and I cant even make it budge. I cant tell the difference between the stock rigidity and with the pucks installed. Not scientific I know...
 
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Ddays said:
I sweated that out. I'm certainly no structural engineer but I honestly dont see that it would make a significant difference being 3" higher? I mean she will raise the driver seat all the way up and that's about 3" as well. Granted the mounts stay stationary but the COG of the seat is raised the same amount soooo? IDK, does my reasoning sound valid?
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I think the main question is whether the seat will stay attached in the event of an accident. Presumably you used longer bolts to get through the pucks. Are they Grade 8 or the metric equivalent and of the same or larger diameter than the stock bolts? If so, you should be fine.


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Ddays said:
I sweated that out. I'm certainly no structural engineer but I honestly dont see that it would make a significant difference being 3" higher? I mean she will raise the driver seat all the way up and that's about 3" as well. Granted the mounts stay stationary but the COG of the seat is raised the same amount soooo? IDK, does my reasoning sound valid?
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Sounds valid! Did you use grade 8 bolts for the extension? Just wondering if they are available?


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fiend said:
I think the main question is whether the seat will stay attached in the event of an accident. Presumably you used longer bolts to get through the pucks. Are they Grade 8 or the metric equivalent and of the same or larger diameter than the stock bolts? If so, you should be fine.


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Yup, longer grade 8 bolts. Had to pound the bolts through as I didnt want any slop there.
 
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