Best lift for your money

[Lagavulin]

I'm looking for suggestions and info on the best lift for my money. I'm going to be running 35's And would prefer to not have to regear or do anything more than installing what comes with the lift kit. I'd also prefer to stay away from spacers and would like to be in the 3-4" range. Thanks in advance.

JR

 

[H8MUD]

RK 2.5" will put you over 3". Also do the upgraded front drive shaft when you do the lift...ask me how I know.

 

[Lagavulin]

RK 2.5" will put you over 3". Also do the upgraded front drive shaft when you do the lift...ask me how I know.

What's the upgraded drive shaft gonna run me?

 

[H8MUD]

Not sure. I'm shopping for one now. A forum member recommended the Coast 1310 which is around $450. If I would've known that the boot was going to get ripped when you lift over 3 inches I would've replaced it at the same time that I had the lift put on.

 

[Berzerker]

In really happy with the Evo enforcer.

 

[Lagavulin]

Not sure. I'm shopping for one now. A forum member recommended the Coast 1310 which is around $450. If I would've known that the boot was going to get ripped when you lift over 3 inches I would've replaced it at the same time that I had the lift put on.

Exactly why I'm trying to avoid lifts that involve things like that.

 

[wayoflife]

I'm looking for suggestions and info on the best lift for my money. I'm going to be running 35's And would prefer to not have to regear or do anything more than installing what comes with the lift kit. I'd also prefer to stay away from spacers and would like to be in the 3-4" range. Thanks in advance.

JR

Your profile shows that you have a 98 TJ, is this correct? If so, you will need to be at about 4" to clear 35's. Also, you really need to budget for an SYE/CV with rear adjustable control arms to do this right. Otherwise, you will need to drop your transfer case about as much as you have lifted your Jeep and that would be a waste.

RK 2.5" will put you over 3". Also do the upgraded front drive shaft when you do the lift...ask me how I know.

You have a TJ with an RK 2.5" lift?

 

[H8MUD]

Get a leveling kit. I had the Teraflex 1.75" and had no issues, but I wanted to be able to the harder trails and was scrapping on everything.

 

[wayoflife]

Get a leveling kit. I had the Teraflex 1.75" and had no issues, but I wanted to be able to the harder trails and was scrapping on everything.

Again, the OP has a 98 TJ - NOT a JK like you. Your advise will not apply for his needs.

 

[H8MUD]

I have a jk. Didn't read the OP's profile. My bad.

 

[wayoflife]

LOL!! I think that is the reason why he posted up his question in the "Jeep TJ, YJ & CJ Tech" forum

 

[Lagavulin]

Your profile shows that you have a 98 TJ, is this correct? If so, you will need to be at about 4" to clear 35's. Also, you really need to budget for an SYE/CV with rear adjustable control arms to do this right. Otherwise, you will need to drop your transfer case about as much as you have lifted your Jeep and that would be a waste.

That's correct I have a 98 TJ.
"SYE/CV with rear adjustable control arms". Could you elaborate on this? If not I'll bing it.

 

[wayoflife]

That's correct I have a 98 TJ.
"SYE/CV with rear adjustable control arms". Could you elaborate on this? If not I'll bing it.

A TJ comes with a transfer case that has what is known as a "slip yoke". This is where all the movement happens as your axle moves up and down. When you lift your Jeep high enough (3" or more), the angle of your rear drive shaft will be steep enough to cause it to vibrate. Not only is this annoying but, if you leave it unchecked too long, you will do damage to your u-joints and can potentially break your transfer case.

A slip yoke eliminator or, SYE will replace the tail housing of your transfer case with one that has a fixed yoke. This will in turn allow you to install a standard CV drive shaft where the slip occurs on it. However, to install it, you will need to set your pinion angle so that it is in line with your drive shaft and this is where adjustable rear upper control arms are needed.

You can get by all this by dropping your transfer case skid plate but, this is really a terrible idea and one that will rob you of all the ground clearance at your belly that you just paid so much to get higher off the ground.

Here is a link to a write-up I did way back when. It will show you what all is involved:
http://www.4x4xplor.com/SYE-CV.html

 

[Lagavulin]

A TJ comes with a transfer case that has what is known as a "slip yoke". This is where all the movement happens as your axle moves up and down. When you lift your Jeep high enough (3" or more), the angle of your rear drive shaft will be steep enough to cause it to vibrate. Not only is this annoying but, if you leave it unchecked too long, you will do damage to your u-joints and can potentially break your transfer case.

A slip yoke eliminator or, SYE will replace the tail housing of your transfer case with one that has a fixed yoke. This will in turn allow you to install a standard CV drive shaft where the slip occurs on it. However, to install it, you will need to set your pinion angle so that it is in line with your drive shaft and this is where adjustable rear upper control arms are needed.

You can get by all this by dropping your transfer case skid plate but, this is really a terrible idea and one that will rob you of all the ground clearance at your belly that you just paid so much to get higher off the ground.

Here is a link to a write-up I did way back when. It will show you what all is involved:
http://www.4x4xplor.com/SYE-CV.html

I read over the procedure and I'm ok with doing this. Doesn't seem difficult.

 

[Lagavulin]

What do they normally cost

 

[Lagavulin]

Nvm. Found priced

 

[mrjester]

SYE is very important. I did it on mine when i lifted it. i don't even see how the stock driveshaft would function under any load at all at that steep of an angle if you didn't. Wish i had taken before and after pictures when i did it. So you could see the huge difference it made. My lift was 6" tho.

 

[Lagavulin]

I talked to someone else about it and they said it's recommended but not required if I'm running 3-4 inches with 35s. Anything 5" and above is required.

 

[cozdude]

I talked to someone else about it and they said it's recommended but not required if I'm running 3-4 inches with 35s. Anything 5" and above is required.

i would still run one just in case. better to spend the little extra money now than to have a break on the trail and not be able to get home. :twocents:

 

[wayoflife]

I talked to someone else about it and they said it's recommended but not required if I'm running 3-4 inches with 35s. Anything 5" and above is required.

Yeah, but did this someone you talked to explain HOW that is done without one? I believe I had and it's called a transfer case drop. There is no way around it, if you are lifted 3"-4", you will have significant driveline vibrations without it or an SYE. Sure, you can do a combination of a motor mount lift and a smaller drop but still, it is needed and really, it's not even a great solution. How do I know, I've done it and tried everyway you can to make it work before finally installing an SYE. Again, why would you spend all that money getting your Jeep higher off the ground just to lower it's belly back down closer to the ground again. But hey, that's just me and you're free to take advice from whoever you want :yup: