best 2.5" lift for less than $1000

C

cody0707

New member
I am in the planning stage for phase 2 of my Jeep and plan on adding a 2.5" lift to my 2 door sport. I have managed to keep my Jeep as possible and hope to continue doing so. Most of the trails I run here in N. FL do not require me to disconnect the swaybar so i dont need max flex. I am looking for a soft ride. my jeep is my DD and only see trails about once or twice a month.

My budget for a 2.5" is $1,000.
 
With that said, is it safe to assume you'd be okay with a coil spacer lift that gives you 2.5" exactly or, are you wanting more of a 2.5" coil lift that will in fact give you over 3" of lift?
 
First off, welcome! Stop by the "Give us a wave" section and tell us a little about yourself. Second off, if you're just looking for looks or to clear bigger tires, I would look at a budget boost. They are very inexpensive, easy to install and they maintain the factory ride. You will be able to clear 35" tires with one and trimming your factory fenders. They are all about the same, just make sure it has shock extensions or new shocks, and longer sway bar links for the rear.
 
I am looking for an actual coil lift not a BB. My goal is to run a tire that measures 35.5" while mounted. I plan to do this with flat fenders and a small coil lift.
 
cody0707 said:
I am looking for an actual coil lift not a BB. My goal is to run a tire that measures 35.5" while mounted. I plan to do this with flat fenders and a small coil lift.
Click to expand...

So, what you're saying is that you really wanting to run a 37" tire or slightly taller. That is after all what ALL tires that have 37" written on the sidewall measure up to in reality or even come up just a bit short. Being that's the case, you really need to be looking at a 3" lift or more and you should also be looking into new gears to help make up for the loss in power and a new front drive shaft. Of course, this is to say nothing about the components that you will really want to help keep your Jeep handling well on the highway. Are you adding up the dollars here?

Now, if you're wanting to run an advertised 35" tire, as in, that's what it says on the sidewall but will have an actual measurement of about 33", you could definitely get away with a 2.5" coil lift especially being that most will yield over 3". Even at this, you will ruin your front drive shaft the first time you go off roading if you don't install exhaust spacers and even if you do that, the CV joint will fail sooner than later due to the extreme angle that it will sit in. Also, at 3" of lift or more, your Jeep will feel flighty at highway speeds unless you buy parts to address your caster.

I could go on but before I do, is this really where you are wanting to go?
 
The tire I was considering is actually advertised as a 36“ BFG KM2. I am not dead set on that size though and may just try to run a true to size 35. I already have 4.56 gears and my dana 30 has been reinforced with gussets and sleeves. I was actually considering something along the lines of OME, Teraflex, RK, or Metal cloak but am unsure which will best fit my DD style and trail riding.
 
cody0707 said:
The tire I was considering is actually advertised as a 36“ BFG KM2. I am not dead set on that size though and may just try to run a true to size 35. I already have 4.56 gears and my dana 30 has been reinforced with gussets and sleeves. I was actually considering something along the lines of OME, Teraflex, RK, or Metal cloak but am unsure which will best fit my DD style and trail riding.
Click to expand...

Take a look at Rancho's lifts and pair them with their 9000 shocks which are adjustable.
 
WOL stated it as straight forward as can be. Going over a stated 35" tire cost more than $1000.

From your profile it appears you have a two door w/ 4.56 gears. I have been mostly happy with my Rancho 2" sport kit (front coils, rear spacers, front bump ext., brake line extensions and shocks for about $380 on sale earlier this year) running 35x12.50 17 tires and trimmed fenders. If I was keeping it the only thing I would add is 1.75 rear coil spacers and 1" rear bump stop spacers. I ran 37s on this setup for a short time because I had them. I had big time rubbing in the rear with the 37s. I plan to go to thirty sevens now but that means front DS and an EVO Enforcer are in my future and then a PR44 down the road.
 
cody0707 said:
The tire I was considering is actually advertised as a 36“ BFG KM2. I am not dead set on that size though and may just try to run a true to size 35.
Click to expand...

I'm taking it that you didn't read anything that I just said? Again, a TRUE 35" tire WILL BE an advertised 37" tire. ALL lift kits are based on "advertised" tire sizes and NOT "actual" size.

I already have 4.56 gears...
Click to expand...

Perfect for a set of ADVERTISED 35" tires as they will have a TRUE size of 33".

...and my dana 30 has been reinforced with gussets and sleeves.
Click to expand...

:yawn37: Bending your housing is the least of your concerns. Certainly, it won't keep you from getting you off the trail and driving around town for a long time. What you should be concerned with is how weak your ring and pinion is as well as your axle shafts. With a set of ADVERTISED 37's that have a TRUE measurement of 35", you will really want to be running a set of 4.88's to bring you back to stock performance (assuming you have a 3.6L) and 5.13's if you want a bit more power. Of course, a 5.13 in a Dana 30 will have a very small pinion and make an already weak setup that much weaker.

I was actually considering something along the lines of OME, Teraflex, RK, or Metal cloak but am unsure which will best fit my DD style and trail riding.
Click to expand...

I think you really need to decide what's more important to you - DD or trail riding. If the later, you can get away with a cheaper kit that has less components but if you really want your Jeep to handle well as a DD, you really need to be spending money on things like adjustable front lower control arms to set your caster as well as a drag link flip/front track bar relocation kit to help restore your steering geometry. Of course, this is still not including the front drive shaft that you really will need and if you have a 2-door, a rear shaft and adjustable rear upper control arms to set your pinion. Again, these are all things that you would really want to have for a DD that sits 3" or more and that's what you would need to clear an advertised 37" tire which again has a true 35" measurement.
 
catahoula said:
Could one use Plush ride coils with a nice set of shocks?
Click to expand...

Well sure you could but, unless you trim your fenders, I guarantee you that you will rub your fenders BIG TIME with a set of 37" tires of which have an actual measurement of 35". Of course, this is to say nothing about all the other issues you will have by not installing components you really need to retain a good DD ride.
 
wayoflife said:
Well sure you could but, unless you trim your fenders, I guarantee you that you will rub your fenders BIG TIME with a set of 37" tires of which have an actual measurement of 35". Of course, this is to say nothing about all the other issues you will have by not installing components you really need to retain a good DD ride.
Click to expand...

I still consider myself a noob and reason for asking questions. Personally, I plan on running 35's and really like OverlanderJK's set up. I would trim fenders like his with addition of a DS. Like for mine to turn out like his except it will not be "orange".:cheesy:
 
cody0707 said:
Ok I'll go with an advertised 34.8" tire. What coil lift would you recommend for this budget?
Click to expand...

In other words, you are looking at a metric 315/70R17 or there about? If so, I would still say that you are wanting a 3" lift to clear them and that you will still need a new front drive shaft and eventually a rear one as well. Being that budget is a concern, I would look into a Rancho 3" Sport system but, that'll just get you started. The more money you can afford to spend, the more your Jeep will feel like a good DD.

catahoula said:
I still consider myself a noob and reason for asking questions. Personally, I plan on running 35's and really like OverlanderJK's set up. I would trim fenders like his with addition of a DS. Like for mine to turn out like his except it will not be "orange".:cheesy:
Click to expand...

LOL!! I hope you didn't take anything I may have said the wrong way. I think asking you asking questions is great and I would always be happy to answer them :yup:
 
Why do you recommend 3" when companies like RK make 1.5" lifts that will allow 35s. TF, RK, and AEV all make a 2.5" that recommend a 35" tire. I will be looking at a 315/75R16. Once again where I ride in N. FL does not require maximum articulation. If I lived in a more washed out or rocky area I would.
 
cody0707 said:
Why do you recommend 3" when companies like RK make 1.5" lifts that will allow 35s. TF, RK, and AEV all make a 2.5" that recommend a 35" tire. I will be looking at a 315/75R16. Once again where I ride in N. FL does not require maximum articulation. If I lived in a more washed out or rocky area I would.
Click to expand...

LOL!! Don't get me wrong but, why are you here asking questions when you're not interested in hearing a thing I say and clearly have all the answers to everything anyway?

Again, EVERY MANUFACTURER of lift kits refer to ADVERTISED tire sizes and NOT "actual" tire sizes. When TF, RK, and AEV say their 2.5" will clear a 35" tire, they are referring to an ADVERTISED 35" tire which has an actual measurement of 33". Is there another language I should be using to help make this more clear for you because English doesn't seem to be working. :crazyeyes:
 
So, wanting a true "34.8" inch tire, you would go with a marketed 37 inch tire. The suspension companies say they will clear a marketed 35 inch tire which is a true "33" inch tire, not your "34.8" inch tire. You need a lift in the 3s because to achieve your wanted "34.8" inch tire, you will actually have to buy a marketed 37 inch tire.
After spending years reading and watching all of Mr. WOL's posts, I can suggest just taking his advice.
 
cody0707 said:
Why do you recommend 3" when companies like RK make 1.5" lifts that will allow 35s. TF, RK, and AEV all make a 2.5" that recommend a 35" tire. I will be looking at a 315/75R16. Once again where I ride in N. FL does not require maximum articulation. If I lived in a more washed out or rocky area I would.
Click to expand...

I'm running a 2" aev spacer lift with 35x12.50x17. Everything is fine. As everyone is telling you, if you want to go 3" get ready to spend some money.

You'll need drivelines, adjustable control arms, exhaust modifications. These guys know what they're talking about.

Just saying.
 
cody0707 said:
Why do you recommend 3" when companies like RK make 1.5" lifts that will allow 35s. TF, RK, and AEV all make a 2.5" that recommend a 35" tire. I will be looking at a 315/75R16. Once again where I ride in N. FL does not require maximum articulation. If I lived in a more washed out or rocky area I would.
Click to expand...

ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1419111204.257198.jpg.......
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom