Axle Reinforcement

15FireCrackerJK

15FireCrackerJK

New member
Hi All, I'll be picking up a 2015 Rubicon 2 door Friday and will be installing EVOs Enforcer Stage 2 lift along with Adams 1350 driveshafts front and rear running 37 inch Nitto Ridge Grapplers and EVO bumpers front and rear. My question is I will be putting on EVOs C gussets and aftermarket ball joints. Should I also upgrade the Axle shafts as well or wait till I save up to upgrade to a ProRock 44 axle housing? Thoughts??

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15FireCrackerJK said:
Hi All, I'll be picking up a 2015 Rubicon 2 door Friday and will be installing EVOs Enforcer Stage 2 lift along with Adams 1350 driveshafts front and rear running 37 inch Nitto Ridge Grapplers and EVO bumpers front and rear. My question is I will be putting on EVOs C gussets and aftermarket ball joints. Should I also upgrade the Axle shafts as well or wait till I save up to upgrade to a ProRock 44 axle housing? Thoughts??

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Probably save up for prorock44 and don't wheel it too hard. I would also do the C's.
For ball joints I would wait until the factory ones go out and you actually need new ones.
Rubicon shafts are are actually surprisingly strong from what I heard, especially on the newer models like 2015


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VeruGE*144 said:
Probably save up for prorock44 and don't wheel it too hard. I would also do the C's.
For ball joints I would wait until the factory ones go out and you actually need new ones.
Rubicon shafts are are actually surprisingly strong from what I heard.


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Okay awesome I'll put the funds on other parts like skid plates or something. Thanks for the advice.

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15FireCrackerJK said:
Hi All, I'll be picking up a 2015 Rubicon 2 door Friday and will be installing EVOs Enforcer Stage 2 lift along with Adams 1350 driveshafts front and rear running 37 inch Nitto Ridge Grapplers and EVO bumpers front and rear. My question is I will be putting on EVOs C gussets and aftermarket ball joints. Should I also upgrade the Axle shafts as well or wait till I save up to upgrade to a ProRock 44 axle housing? Thoughts??

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Click to expand...

Having seen two front axle failure on JKs this week (not mine) from U-joint failure, I'd suggest aftermarket axle shafts (or at least tack welding the cap to the U-joint body. Axles are not a difficult install and swapping them into the PR along with the guts of the pumpkin wouldn't add anything to the effort (you'd still need to install the new axles).
 
JoeB-JKURX said:
Having seen two front axle failure on JKs this week (not mine) from U-joint failure, I'd suggest aftermarket axle shafts (or at least tack welding the cap to the U-joint body. Axles are not a difficult install and swapping them into the PR along with the guts of the pumpkin wouldn't add anything to the effort (you'd still need to install the new axles).
Click to expand...

That is true. Are the rubicon shafts used with the elocker the same length as ones that are used with air lockers, if he decides to go that route? I know they would be different for the rear. How about the front though?


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JoeB-JKURX said:
Having seen two front axle failure on JKs this week (not mine) from U-joint failure, I'd suggest aftermarket axle shafts (or at least tack welding the cap to the U-joint body. Axles are not a difficult install and swapping them into the PR along with the guts of the pumpkin wouldn't add anything to the effort (you'd still need to install the new axles).
Click to expand...
Okay awesome. After this first stage of the build the ProRock will be next on the list. Should it be okay for about a year with moderate wheeling?

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JoeB-JKURX said:
Having seen two front axle failure on JKs this week (not mine) from U-joint failure, I'd suggest aftermarket axle shafts (or at least tack welding the cap to the U-joint body. Axles are not a difficult install and swapping them into the PR along with the guts of the pumpkin wouldn't add anything to the effort (you'd still need to install the new axles).
Click to expand...

I wouldn't suggest this.
The U-Joint cap needs to be able to rotate. Welding it to the body of the U-joint would bind and cause it to break.
If the U-Joints are the only thing that broke in what you saw, then an aftermarket shaft isn't going to do anything.
Full circle clips are your best option - and likely not having them is what caused the break you saw.

OE shafts are plenty strong for most. I've wheel hopped mine locked on 37s countless times and have yet to break anything. Just don't do that with the wheel fully cranked and you'll be fine.
 
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Rubicon shafts are 32 spline aftermarket air lockers are typically 30 or 35 I believe

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Robertcrav said:
Rubicon shafts are 32 spline aftermarket air lockers are typically 30 or 35 I believe

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30 inner and 32 outer on the shafts. And yes you can upgrade to a 35 spline locker but shafts for the front are limited in availability.
 
Speedy_RCW said:
If you're semi mechanically inclined I'd suggest installing it yourself. Best to get to know your jeep in case you have to perform trail repairs.


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I've installed 99% of my parts however I've never worked with coilovers myself neither has my dad. If I attempt it myself I'd half to wait till end of June July as my dad had surgery and is in a cast till then. Was floating the idea of having the shop just knock it out now as I have the extra cash. But I would be able to get the ProRock right away if I did it myself. They want 1400 to do the lift alignment and drive shafts.

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15FireCrackerJK said:
I've installed 99% of my parts however I've never worked with coilovers myself neither has my dad. If I attempt it myself I'd half to wait till end of June July as my dad had surgery and is in a cast till then. Was floating the idea of having the shop just knock it out now as I have the extra cash. But I would be able to get the ProRock right away if I did it myself. They want 1400 to do the lift alignment and drive shafts.

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If you could install a standard spring lift, I don't think you'd have an issue with the bolt-on CO's. But yeah, if you're not wanting to wait for you dad and aren't comfortable doing the install yourself it may be better to have a shop handle it for you. I just personally prefer to install whatever I can myself.
 
Sorry to revive an older thread. Looking to reinforce my 2015 rubicon dana 44s for an eventual upgrade to 37s and wanted to get group opinion..

I currently have C-gussets, evo sleeves (did this before reading up and hearing that it's not necessary), and upgraded aftermarket ball joints on the front axle. Running 35s with the 4.1 Gearing.

I'm looking to regear to 4.88 (daily driver) and would like to do shafts.

Which option would you guys choose? The cost is progressively higher as we go from 1 to 4 and at some point would be better to just invest in Prorock44 -- but I'm not quite there yet. I think the upgraded axles will probably last me ... but let me know if you disagree.

1. 4340 front Chromoly Axle kit with 760 ujoints.
2. 4340 front Chromoly Axle kit with 1350 ujoints
3. USA MADE Revolution Gear 4340 Chromoly Axle kit with 1350 ujoints
4. RCV Axle Kit
 
danford.lau said:
Sorry to revive an older thread. Looking to reinforce my 2015 rubicon dana 44s for an eventual upgrade to 37s and wanted to get group opinion..

I currently have C-gussets, evo sleeves (did this before reading up and hearing that it's not necessary), and upgraded aftermarket ball joints on the front axle. Running 35s with the 4.1 Gearing.

I'm looking to regear to 4.88 (daily driver) and would like to do shafts.

Which option would you guys choose? The cost is progressively higher as we go from 1 to 4 and at some point would be better to just invest in Prorock44 -- but I'm not quite there yet. I think the upgraded axles will probably last me ... but let me know if you disagree.

1. 4340 front Chromoly Axle kit with 760 ujoints.
2. 4340 front Chromoly Axle kit with 1350 ujoints
3. USA MADE Revolution Gear 4340 Chromoly Axle kit with 1350 ujoints
4. RCV Axle Kit
Click to expand...

What ever axle shafts you get can be swapped over to a PR44 housing later.

Never heard of 760 joints.

I think the difference between 2 and 3 will be the warranty (lifetime v less than lifetime). Other than that and price, they probably will be the same.

The consensus on this forum seems to be that RCVs are not worth the money and the warranty sucks.


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danford.lau said:
4. RCV Axle Kit
Click to expand...

Skip these. Over priced for our needs on a Jeep and the balls inside the joints wear out giving you irritating as hell snapping & popping noises as you turn. Stick with full circle u-joints & chromo shafts & spend the savings on other stuff.
 
Revolution shafts, Regear, and call it good until your housing goes down- it probably never will. In the meantime save for a PR44 housing and all your internals will swap over.

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