anybody using the Bushwacker flat fender flares? Some Q's for a 2.5" lift and 35's

jorgelrod

jorgelrod

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anybody using the Bushwacker flat fender flares? Some Q's for a 2.5" lift and 35's

I am running a Procomp 2.5" lift which ended at almost 2.9' It will probably end up at 2.5" with time but who knows, I don't plan on going higher but I'm soon going to take the plunge on Steelies and Tires and obviously the whole 33" vs 35" comes into my head and everybody says that 35"s will slightly rub when only lifted 2.5", my question is anybody out there running 35's with the bushwacker flat fenders and 2.5" lifts? any rubbing? any pointers?? Thanks in advance for your replies

Jorge
 
I've run Bushwacker Flat Fenders with 35's and about 2.5" of lift in the past. You'll still need to trim the pinch seam to do it but otherwise, you should be fine.
 
The Flat Bushwackers leave plenty of room for 35s. I have 37s on a 4" plush ride EVO lift and the 37s rub some in the rear near the pinch seam under rear end load. I've trimmed it twice and still need to do some more.
I think the bushwackers are a quality fender with good integration of fender lights.
 
jorgelrod said:
I am running a Procomp 2.5" lift which ended at almost 2.9' It will probably end up at 2.5" with time but who knows, I don't plan on going higher but I'm soon going to take the plunge on Steelies and Tires and obviously the whole 33" vs 35" comes into my head and everybody says that 35"s will slightly rub when only lifted 2.5", my question is anybody out there running 35's with the bushwacker flat fenders and 2.5" lifts? any rubbing? any pointers?? Thanks in advance for your replies

Jorge
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Unless you have extremely aggressive backspacing like 3.75, you should not rub 35s (which are probably less than 34" mounted) with a 2.5" lift, moreso with a 2.9"....there is NO WAY you are going to rub 35s with a 2.5" and flat fenders. If you are getting flat fenders solely because of rubbing, I would hold off until you see that you actually are rubbing...which I doubt you will.
 
NFRs2000NYC said:
Unless you have extremely aggressive backspacing like 3.75, you should not rub 35s (which are probably less than 34" mounted) with a 2.5" lift, moreso with a 2.9"....there is NO WAY you are going to rub 35s with a 2.5" and flat fenders. If you are getting flat fenders solely because of rubbing, I would hold off until you see that you actually are rubbing...which I doubt you will.
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I'd have to second that I have no rubbing with 2.5 and 35s just wait and see before you spend the cash.
 
Thanks Guys, sounds like a great idea, I was just looking at what my options were, If the price diff between 33s and 35s is not a big deal I might go with the 35s and save some moola to regear to 4.56 since I have the D30

Jorge
 
NFRs2000NYC said:
Unless you have extremely aggressive backspacing like 3.75, you should not rub 35s (which are probably less than 34" mounted) with a 2.5" lift, moreso with a 2.9"....there is NO WAY you are going to rub 35s with a 2.5" and flat fenders. If you are getting flat fenders solely because of rubbing, I would hold off until you see that you actually are rubbing...which I doubt you will.
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Most 35's actually only measure up at about 33" or so but, that's a moot point being that when talking about lifts and tire size, you should always refer to what is written on the sidewall and not actual height. That being said, I agree, with 2.5"+ of lift, you'll most likely clear 35's ASSUMING you have the proper bump stop extensions installed. Better to save your money and get flat fenders only if needed. Or, if you just like they way they look.
 
jorgelrod said:
Thanks Guys, sounds like a great idea, I was just looking at what my options were, If the price diff between 33s and 35s is not a big deal I might go with the 35s and save some moola to regear to 4.56 since I have the D30

Jorge
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If you're considering them, I would definitely get the 35's. If you don't, you'll always wish you had. Trust me. As far as gears go, if you have 3.73's now, I would wait on them too. I think you'll find that with your speedometer calibrated, they'll get the job done just fine. If you have 3.21's, yeah, a regear would be worth saving up for.
 
jorgelrod said:
I have 3.73's so like you said, waiting is definitely a great option :)
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You just need to make sure to properly calibrate your speedo with an AEV ProCal or Superchips Flashcal. If you don't, your shift points will be off and your Jeep will feel like it has less power than it really does.
 
35's, 2.5" lift measured to 2.75" of lift, wheels 4.5" backspacing, with factory flares I get rubbing at full flex
 
904Jeep said:
35's, 2.5" lift measured to 2.75" of lift, wheels 4.5" backspacing, with factory flares I get rubbing at full flex
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I don't doubt it, but in all fairness, not all 35's measure the same. Some are taller and/or wider than others. Just out of curiosity, how tall are your bump stop extensions and where do you rub?
 
wayoflife said:
I don't doubt it, but in all fairness, not all 35's measure the same. Some are taller and/or wider than others. Just out of curiosity, how tall are your bump stop extensions and where do you rub?
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Not able to measure them right now but they are the ones which came included in the AEV 2.5" kit. It was definitely rubbing the front flares.
 
wayoflife said:
I don't doubt it, but in all fairness, not all 35's measure the same. Some are taller and/or wider than others. Just out of curiosity, how tall are your bump stop extensions and where do you rub?
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I know there is a huge variations in actual tire size vs advertised height and between different manufactures I wonder what actual size the suspension companies are basing their lifts off from when they say it will work with any given size, is it the smallest 35" out there or the largest or somewhere in the middle? I notice OME says their 2.5" lift will work with 33"s and almost all other companies say 35" for their 2.5" lifts. I wonder if OME is going by 100% actual tire size vs say TF going by the smallest 35" tire out there? Sure be nice if companies would go by actual measured size vs what is printed in the literature and the sidewalls.
 
I ran this setup for a short time and had no rubbing, then switched to 37s over 35s while still on the 2.5" lift and only rubbed slightly out back so I had to trim slightly but I am sure you would be fine with 35s.
 
jorgelrod said:
Thanks Guys, sounds like a great idea, I was just looking at what my options were, If the price diff between 33s and 35s is not a big deal I might go with the 35s and save some moola to regear to 4.56 since I have the D30

Jorge
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I don't rub with 2.5" and 315 Duratrac's.
 
I ran 35's(KM2) on ATX Crawls(4.5 backspacing)with a 2.5 TF BB and Bushwacker flat fenders on a 2010 JKUR without any problems.
 
35s w/2.5 lift and bush flats here and never an issue. In fact I think the gap between the tire and bottomof fender looks too big. Go 35 s if you can afford. Like others said, u will regret not doing it in future

And yes...trim your pinch seam to be safe

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
jorgelrod said:
I am running a Procomp 2.5" lift which ended at almost 2.9' It will probably end up at 2.5" with time but who knows, I don't plan on going higher but I'm soon going to take the plunge on Steelies and Tires and obviously the whole 33" vs 35" comes into my head and everybody says that 35"s will slightly rub when only lifted 2.5", my question is anybody out there running 35's with the bushwacker flat fenders and 2.5" lifts? any rubbing? any pointers?? Thanks in advance for your replies

Jorge
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I'm running 35s and a 2.5" procomp lift as well and have never experienced rubbing or issues with my pinch seam on the lower body.
 
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