Anvil 2 Door 'Send it'

thereich

thereich

New member
After the mistake of selling my first JK to try the car scene, my 2017 WRX lasted 5 months. The dealer offered me what I paid for the car on trade for a used 2014 2 door they had. I wasn't going to pass it up so I started out with another blank canvas.

This one has the auto and a few power options but the crap 3.21 gears. I hoped for 3.73 so I could get away with a set of 33 or 35 until the axles can be swapped. I'll deal with small tires for now.

Here's the new (to me) JK


May of '17


December 31 '16 (Brutus in the background)


And the original JK 'Brutus'
 
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WJCO said:
Congrats. Good luck with the new build.
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Ddays said:
Welcome back! Starting over can be pretty fun.
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catahoula said:
Welcome. I was surprised when I drove a newer one with 3.21 gears and 33's. I would have been happy with that.
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Thanks, I'm actually quite disappointed in the 3.21. Coming back from the car I suppose most any jeeps are gonna feel gutless but with stock tires, it feels worse than my black one did with 3.73 and 35's.

On another note. I found a nail in my tire today so I'm going to throw the spare on it and run that for a little while. I'm in the process of buying a house but once that is done, I'm going to use this excuse to order some new tires. I always liked the MTR's but i think I'm going to try some Falken Wildpeak MT this time. Now, do I get them in a 33 and keep saving for axles and suspension, or just go with 37's and regear temporarily until a front axle can be bought.
 
Clutch said:
Either go with 37s and deal with the 3.21 or keep the stock tires until you can do it all at once.


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37 on no lift? ;) I like that. I'm actually waiting on 2" springs from another member. I may hold off because if I get this house, I'll be driving about 2-3 miles to work so I will be able to tolerate the 37's.
 
thereich said:
37 on no lift? ;) I like that. I'm actually waiting on 2" springs from another member. I may hold off because if I get this house, I'll be driving about 2-3 miles to work so I will be able to tolerate the 37's.
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Obviously you should add a lift, although there was a guy on here who wheeled with 37's and no lift. You asked about regearing and axles.


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Clutch said:
Obviously you should add a lift, although there was a guy on here who wheeled with 37's and no lift. You asked about regearing and axles.


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I saw the fellow that did it. Silver 2 door that he beat on with 37's until he comp cut and stretched. I didn't make it very clear, you are correct. I have a ton of planning and not enough patience.
 
37's on 3:21's in Western Pa would suck. You think your Jeep is gutless now? I'd wait until you could regear. 4:10's would probably be tolerable but I wouldn't do it on 3:21's
 
Ddays said:
37's on 3:21's in Western Pa would suck. You think your Jeep is gutless now? I'd wait until you could regear. 4:10's would probably be tolerable but I wouldn't do it on 3:21's
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I agree. It does suck now. But I have my finances car to take anywhere beyond work and the gym.
 
OHKAY FELLAS...

I'm in a debate with myself, weather its an ego thing or actually necessary I don't know.:thinking: I had planned to go with an aftermarket 44 front and run 37s. I was "happy" on 35 with the stock D30 on the last JK until it started to bend. I figured a heavy duty 44 and 4.88 with a selectable locker would be good for me. Then there is the voice in my ear saying "just get one tons so you can run 40s." Is it necessary? Probably not, but neither was a JK when there are beat up TJ's I could have picked up for $5000.

I came across these Mopar Performance JK rear D60's fully assembled with rotors, for $1650 on eBay. They are brand new and come with brackets for the leafs on the J8. Welding on brackets for coil suspension is not an issue. I know they are semi float and not as strong as full float, but like I said, I ran 35's for 45,000 miles on stock 30/44 with no trouble until the end. For the front, I am considering doing my own 60 from a junk yard or from Fusion4x4.

Please hold your "just buy Dynatrac and be done" comments, if I had $10-20k to spend, I wouldn't be even asking for an opinion.

Should I go with my original plan of UD/Currie/TF/DT front and reappear the rear with a locker and be done? This doesn't have to be an immediate purchase, I am planning this to be in progress in 6 months give or take.

I play in the rocks, no mud. I usually go for line choice over wheel speed and a hard bump, but obviously you don't always have a choice.

Go with 60's or just a 44 front and have to stay babying it. I want 40's but 37's seems to be more reasonable.
 
thereich said:
OHKAY FELLAS...

I'm in a debate with myself, weather its an ego thing or actually necessary I don't know.:thinking: I had planned to go with an aftermarket 44 front and run 37s. I was "happy" on 35 with the stock D30 on the last JK until it started to bend. I figured a heavy duty 44 and 4.88 with a selectable locker would be good for me. Then there is the voice in my ear saying "just get one tons so you can run 40s." Is it necessary? Probably not, but neither was a JK when there are beat up TJ's I could have picked up for $5000.

I came across these Mopar Performance JK rear D60's fully assembled with rotors, for $1650 on eBay. They are brand new and come with brackets for the leafs on the J8. Welding on brackets for coil suspension is not an issue. I know they are semi float and not as strong as full float, but like I said, I ran 35's for 45,000 miles on stock 30/44 with no trouble until the end. For the front, I am considering doing my own 60 from a junk yard or from Fusion4x4.

Please hold your "just buy Dynatrac and be done" comments, if I had $10-20k to spend, I wouldn't be even asking for an opinion.

Should I go with my original plan of UD/Currie/TF/DT front and reappear the rear with a locker and be done? This doesn't have to be an immediate purchase, I am planning this to be in progress in 6 months give or take.

I play in the rocks, no mud. I usually go for line choice over wheel speed and a hard bump, but obviously you don't always have a choice.

Go with 60's or just a 44 front and have to stay babying it. I want 40's but 37's seems to be more reasonable.
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Don't take this the wrong way, but it sounds like you want the quality without paying the money. Sadly, that rarely works out. Here is just ONE recent thread on a UD60 break: https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/47375?p=925830#post925830

Personally, if I were you, I would save for what you want and do it right, it sounds like you already know what that is. The fact that you're entertaining 40s, it sounds like you will eventually get there anyways. I know I didn't directly answer your question, but I also didn't use the word 'Dynatrac.'
 
thereich said:
OHKAY FELLAS...

I'm in a debate with myself, weather its an ego thing or actually necessary I don't know.:thinking: I had planned to go with an aftermarket 44 front and run 37s. I was "happy" on 35 with the stock D30 on the last JK until it started to bend. I figured a heavy duty 44 and 4.88 with a selectable locker would be good for me. Then there is the voice in my ear saying "just get one tons so you can run 40s." Is it necessary? Probably not, but neither was a JK when there are beat up TJ's I could have picked up for $5000.

I came across these Mopar Performance JK rear D60's fully assembled with rotors, for $1650 on eBay. They are brand new and come with brackets for the leafs on the J8. Welding on brackets for coil suspension is not an issue. I know they are semi float and not as strong as full float, but like I said, I ran 35's for 45,000 miles on stock 30/44 with no trouble until the end. For the front, I am considering doing my own 60 from a junk yard or from Fusion4x4.

Please hold your "just buy Dynatrac and be done" comments, if I had $10-20k to spend, I wouldn't be even asking for an opinion.

Should I go with my original plan of UD/Currie/TF/DT front and reappear the rear with a locker and be done? This doesn't have to be an immediate purchase, I am planning this to be in progress in 6 months give or take.

I play in the rocks, no mud. I usually go for line choice over wheel speed and a hard bump, but obviously you don't always have a choice.

Go with 60's or just a 44 front and have to stay babying it. I want 40's but 37's seems to be more reasonable.
Click to expand...

If you're okay with brackets that WILL tear off, gears that may or may not be setup right, hubs that may or may not be installed properly and a company that won't stand behind it when things go wrong, sure a UD60 is a great buy.
 
WJCO said:
Don't take this the wrong way, but it sounds like you want the quality without paying the money. Sadly, that rarely works out. Here is just ONE recent thread on a UD60 break: https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/47375?p=925830#post925830

Personally, if I were you, I would save for what you want and do it right, it sounds like you already know what that is. The fact that you're entertaining 40s, it sounds like you will eventually get there anyways. I know I didn't directly answer your question, but I also didn't use the word 'Dynatrac.'
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Yep. It always costs more in the long run to be cheap.
 
If it were me I wouldn't want the excitement of putting on 40s to be quickly ruined with thoughts and worry about the quality of a d60. No matter how inexpensive you may find one I just couldn't bring myself to tell you it's a good idea.


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I was in this same boat once.... I'm lying I had 44/44 set up from a rubicon and decided to with dynatrac 44 front to hold up my 37s. Now I would love 40s but don't see that happening for the next few years, so the dynatrac and 37s work exceptional. And the old 44 help me fund the new dynatrac


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The responses I expected :clap2: I suppose between Nitto TG and MTR/k 37's you'll almost all say Nitto :yup:
 
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