All* Gladiator Torque Specs in One Place

Lunentucker

Hooked
We've all been there - searching the web for torque specs when wrenching on our JT and finding things here and there, not knowing what's accurate and what isn't.

That's what drove me to grab one of the last USB manuals for sale and to spend a few hours extracting every torque table I could find on it.

It only makes sense to share it here with fellow Gladiator owners.

These are from the 2020 Manual, but I am also updating any specs that have been changed by TSB's from Jeep.

* There are NO diesel-specific specs in this library. The manual I purchased does not include them. Everything else, not unique to the diesel build should be the same.

Here's the link.

2020 Gladiator Torque Specs

If you use the "Download All" link in the upper right corner of the main index you will be able to save everything including the folder structure.
If you notice something's missing or need anything from the manual in general just shoot me a PM and I'll try to help you out.

torques.jpg
 
Last edited:
Update - 3/24/23
The TSB on the lower ball torque applied to non-Mojave models only.
Mojaves have cast iron knuckles and the proper final torque for them is 48 ft pounds.
I have edited the initial sheet and also uploaded sheets from the 21 and 23 service manuals to further clarify.
 
A few notes regarding torque and torque wrenches.

The heaviest torque in the specs is the Pitman arm nut, which is 177 foot pounds.
There are some control arm bolts that will exceed that on total final torque, pushing 250 foot pounds, however those are published with initial torque plus degrees. For example, a Lower Control Arm front bolt is 103 ft lbs. PLUS 145 degrees.

That's a lot for an unassisted human being to achieve, especially if working from the garage floor or ground, which is where the vehicle should be on all control arm bolt torques (on the wheels and under the full vehicle's weight).

So how do you get there?
Well, the easiest method I have found is to use the impact wrench.
Note the position of a marking on the socket and calculate where it needs to end up when it's moved clockwise by 145 degrees, then simply bump the impact until the position is achieved.

Yes, you can use cheater bars, long breaker bars, or your whole family, but that impact wrench makes it much easier.

Work smarter, not harder.
 
Update - A member on another forum has taken the time to put all of the torque specs into a well-crafter spreadsheet.
It's available for download in the standard Excel format, and I also copied it into a Sheets document in the Google drive at the original location.
 
Tried to download this, but the link is broken. Can someone correct it so we can still access this info?
 
Tried to download this, but the link is broken. Can someone correct it so we can still access this info?
I have it saved. I don't know if my email will let me send a file as big as the .zip file is but can try.

Send me your email and we can see if it goes.
 
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