Aftermarket front axle

A

agiron

New member
I'm looking at ordering an aftermarket front axle, I know a lot of you guys run dynatrac. Two questions.

Are they really that much stronger/have better construction than the g2 and curry? If, what specifically makes them stronger?

Looking over their ordering form, what options did those of you running the pr44 choose? And why?
 
agiron said:
I'm looking at ordering an aftermarket front axle, I know a lot of you guys run dynatrac. Two questions.

Are they really that much stronger/have better construction than the g2 and curry? If, what specifically makes them stronger?

Looking over their ordering form, what options did those of you running the pr44 choose? And why?
Click to expand...

I previously ran a pr44. The main reasons I chose it over others are these:

1) thicker tubes - got the 1/2" tubes and should do if you get one
2) higher clearance diff design. I gained clearance going from my rubi 44 to the pr44. The others are normal d44 housings.
3) made in USA and reputation. Currie had just released theirs back when I got my pr44 so it was new to market. G2 and tera44 I was not real interested in made in China. I think they may be built in the us now but I really don't follow them so don't know



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13_gecko_rubi said:
I previously ran a pr44. The main reasons I chose it over others are these:

1) thicker tubes - got the 1/2" tubes and should do if you get one
2) higher clearance diff design. I gained clearance going from my rubi 44 to the pr44. The others are normal d44 housings.
3) made in USA and reputation. Currie had just released theirs back when I got my pr44 so it was new to market. G2 and tera44 I was not real interested in made in China. I think they may be built in the us now but I really don't follow them so don't know
Click to expand...

Couldn't have said it better. Being made in the USA alone makes it the clear winner for me but high clearance diff design and built in 6° of caster are big pluses too. Also, if you have a Rubicon, you can always swap in your internals to it and save a big chunk of change.
 
Looks like the other two posts addressed your first question. As per your second question, I ordered the unlimited housing for the extra caster, ARB locker b/c of their reputation and I wanted a selectable locker and already had compressor for it. I went with standard u-joint style axle shafts over RCV to save a little money. Also went with raised trackbar bracket welded on b/c I have draglink flip and 4" lift. If you go with a PR44 you won't regret it. Thing is seriously solid.


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If you go to Dynatrac's website and read the story of why the owner started the company, you'll find that they truly care about quality and customer service. Also, after working with one of their reps, you will find the same thing. Also watch the "building of a ProRock 80" video on YouTube and you can see the quality taken in every step. The axle is inspected over 100 times during the building of it prior to them shipping it.

As far as strength, this is from their ProRock 44 FAQ, which I highly recommend that you look over on their website.

IMG_20161231_131021_562.jpg
 
agiron said:
I'm looking at ordering an aftermarket front axle, I know a lot of you guys run dynatrac. Two questions.

Are they really that much stronger/have better construction than the g2 and curry? If, what specifically makes them stronger?

Looking over their ordering form, what options did those of you running the pr44 choose? And why?
Click to expand...


I chose the PR44 housing and swapped over my internals due to breaking the factory unit. If your budget allows I would recommend ordering their HD ball joints with the housing.

At the time I ordered, Dynatrac didn't recommend the extra caster for my application as I'm only lifted 3-inches.

Main reasons for me selecting Dynatrac was reputation, made in U.S.A., added ground clearance, HD C's, thicker tubing, and it was literally bolt in.

Factor in a R&P setup with your overall budget. If you set it up yourself make sure the Rubicon locker sensor goes in before the carrier...;-).
 
agiron said:
I'm looking at ordering an aftermarket front axle, I know a lot of you guys run dynatrac. Two questions.

Are they really that much stronger/have better construction than the g2 and curry? If, what specifically makes them stronger?

Looking over their ordering form, what options did those of you running the pr44 choose? And why?
Click to expand...

Dynatrac is just plain better:

1) good thick axle tubes
2) very stiff modular iron housings
3) pro steer ball joints are awesome
4) Dynatrac is right there during and long after the sale
5) all made in USA

I went with Pro Rock 44, lifetime guarantee M300U RCV shafts, pro steer ball joints. I currently run 37s and it's done nothing but stomp trail!


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I have a Sahara, so I'm going to need all new internals. Saying that I'm trying to keep the build of the axle down. Did everyone upgrade the ball joints and tube thickness?

Also, I'm running the 3" enforcer, should I get the unlimited or regular?


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Just for information purposes here, I have been seeing advertising for this "carbon / curry" axle here lately. It is basically......

curry 44 housing with 3" tubes / .375 thickness.
ARB air locker
4.56, 4.88, 5.13, or 5.38 gears installed
synergy ball joints
new yoke either stock, 1310, or 1350
carbon off road chromoly Axle Shafts with a 10-Year Warranty

Delivered with lift gate service for $4320 It seems to stack up on paper to the others and seems to come in cheaper with more components included.

Thoughts?
 
agiron said:
I have a Sahara, so I'm going to need all new internals. Saying that I'm trying to keep the build of the axle down. Did everyone upgrade the ball joints and tube thickness?

Also, I'm running the 3" enforcer, should I get the unlimited or regular?


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Click to expand...

I would definitely do the unlimited or you'll kick yourself in the ass later for not. I think it's only 200 more and i believe .5 inch walls is the thickest out there for a 44. It's heavier, but you also have to think, weight in the axle helps the COG, it's not like having extra weight on the roof rack. I was debating on whether to do it on mine, and I'm glad I did. Otherwise I would have questioned myself for ever. With the total cost of the axle, 200 isn't much. I also upgraded the ball joints.
 
agiron said:
I have a Sahara, so I'm going to need all new internals. Saying that I'm trying to keep the build of the axle down. Did everyone upgrade the ball joints and tube thickness?

Also, I'm running the 3" enforcer, should I get the unlimited or regular?


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Click to expand...
Id upgrade the tube thickness it isn't much more and can never be done later. Ball joints you could run something else cheaper now and upgrade later. That said I burned through my synergies in a year and wish i had just done it the first time.

Ask dynatrac but I bet with 3" lift they will tell you you don't need the extra caster. That said think down the road, do you ever plan to maybe go higher? I had the extra caster when I ran about 3.5" lift and never had an issue. Not sure when too much caster is a problem, not sure I've ever heard that. Again only think long term because you cant change it later.

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The 3" enforcer nets more than 3" I haven't measured maybe some of the other enforcer guys have, does dynatrac take that into accounr or just advertised lift


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agiron said:
The 3" enforcer nets more than 3" I haven't measured maybe some of the other enforcer guys have, does dynatrac take that into accounr or just advertised lift


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Click to expand...
You'll want to tell them your actual lift, not advertised. On their website it shows you where to measure to figure it out. If you're over 3" I'd get the extra caster version based on my experience but again ask them, their tech support isn't just a couple knowledgeless guys, the know their stuff and have sold thousands of them and seen what works and what doesn't.

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agiron said:
I have a Sahara, so I'm going to need all new internals. Saying that I'm trying to keep the build of the axle down. Did everyone upgrade the ball joints and tube thickness?

Also, I'm running the 3" enforcer, should I get the unlimited or regular?


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Click to expand...

PM me. I'll have Pro Rock 44 (complete assembly) and Rubicon rear with 4340 chromoly shafts, Dynatrac diff cover and AEV diff slider available shortly. Both assemblies also include big Rotor kit. All you need after that is a rock trac. You can get that for around $1,500.


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As mentioned, Dynatrac can walk you through all of this. I wouldn't worry about the caster myself because virtually the axle will be the same as what you have now in regards to caster with your current lift setup. Up the road, you could get adjustable arms to dial it in more. Again, ask Dynatrac to be safe. It's OK to be a little high on caster, however, the higher you go, the steeper the driveline angle.
 
I did the added builtin caster on my pr44 and now regret it. My evo lcas wont go short enough and now my caster is too high. And my enforcer netted exactly 3" just fyi
 
WJCO said:
What's your caster currently at?
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Lolol like 8-9* pinion angleisnt terrible because the caster is built in, but its causing the handling to be funny and gives the steering a weird feel. Especially w no steering stabilizer.
 
MedixJK said:
Lolol like 8-9* pinion angleisnt terrible because the caster is built in, but its causing the handling to be funny and gives the steering a weird feel. Especially w no steering stabilizer.
Click to expand...

Could you get upper arms and adjust them longer? I wonder if you could buy/build some kind of coil shim to correct it. Getting it close to 6 would be good.
 
MedixJK said:
I did the added builtin caster on my pr44 and now regret it. My evo lcas wont go short enough and now my caster is too high. And my enforcer netted exactly 3" just fyi
Click to expand...

I have the same setup. 4 degrees built in and the Evo lower control arms added 2 degrees. I talked to both Dynatrac and Evo and they both said I was over thinking it. Haven't had any issues


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