aftermarket adjustable control arm help...

aaronstephen

aaronstephen

New member
I am looking to upgrade my control arms from the stock set. really at this point I would like to just do my front and rear lowers because I would like to beef them up a bit. My lift is about 2" and I won't be going any higher than that. so this is where I need some help.

since stock length is 22 5/8" in the front, are there any control arms out there that can be adjusted to maybe only a 1/4" longer than stock, front and rear? I've had the metal cloak arms on my last JK and it seemed as if they could only get down to about 23" in the front. Thought maybe others may have some experience with different companies and could help me out. thanks all
 
well, i did some calling around today and this is what I found out. Thought I would share in case anyone else was interested.

Rock Krawler - Front LCA - shortest length 23 1/8"

MetalCLoak - Front LCA - shortest length 23"

Synergy - Front LCA - shortest length 22 9/16" and Rear LCA - 19 3/4"


Looks like I'll be looking into getting the Synergy arms.
 
I have installed and run Currie and Full-Traction arms in the past and can tell you that they can be set to factory 22-5/8 length.

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I'm looking to get a 2.5 inch lift, and I like the currie enterprises arms. All the kits that Currie offers are of course 4" lifts. Could I purchase the 8 adjustable arms and run say a TF 2.5" coil lift? Or would buying all 8 arms be over kill? I would like to get them all, but really just want to get started with something mild and cost effective. Only looking to run 35s with some backspacing. I believe all that is necessary is the front lower adjustable arms, and rear upper adjustable arms. I'm just not 100% sure.
 
Ive been really happy with my rokmen control arms. I had an lj before the jk and it wore rokmen arms also.
 
Limpinlobster said:
I'm looking to get a 2.5 inch lift, and I like the currie enterprises arms. All the kits that Currie offers are of course 4" lifts. Could I purchase the 8 adjustable arms and run say a TF 2.5" coil lift? Or would buying all 8 arms be over kill? I would like to get them all, but really just want to get started with something mild and cost effective. Only looking to run 35s with some backspacing. I believe all that is necessary is the front lower adjustable arms, and rear upper adjustable arms. I'm just not 100% sure.
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For just 2.5", it would be total overkill. Honestly, I would save your money and just get what you need. Front lowers to set your caster and, if you get a new rear drive shaft, rear uppers. I can assure you that the rest of your factory arms will not hinder you on the trail with the setup you are wanting to get.
 
wayoflife said:
For just 2.5", it would be total overkill. Honestly, I would save your money and just get what you need. Front lowers to set your caster and, if you get a new rear drive shaft, rear uppers. I can assure you that the rest of your factory arms will not hinder you on the trail with the setup you are wanting to get.
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so Eddie... would you recommend I just focus on my front lowers than, since i'm only at about 2.5" up front? I have not replaced my rear driveshaft yet, but I do think I may need to with the added flex I'll be getting with the OME springs and their free length. :dont_know:
 
aaronstephen said:
so Eddie... would you recommend I just focus on my front lowers than, since i'm only at about 2.5" up front? I have not replaced my rear driveshaft yet, but I do think I may need to with the added flex I'll be getting with the OME springs and their free length. :dont_know:
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Being that money doesn't grow on trees, yeah, it's what I would recommend, just focus on getting front lowers so that you can address your caster. Get rears if and when you get a rear drive shaft.
 
Here is a question that I havn't quite figured out the answer to based on reading others posts. Will stock arm bushings limit flex (as long as your shock isn't fully extended) or will they flex and just fail prematurly?
 
bl17z90 said:
Here is a question that I havn't quite figured out the answer to based on reading others posts. Will stock arm bushings limit flex (as long as your shock isn't fully extended) or will they flex and just fail prematurly?
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Factory bushings are bonded rubber meaning, the rubber is physically bonded to the metal collar and crush sleeve that gets pressed into your control arms. Unlike a polyurethane bushing or something like a Johnny joint where the components inside the joint rotate/move (hence, why they need greasing), when you flex on the trail with a factory bushing, the rubber itself twists. Granted, the rubber is very soft and the amount of load is progressive but, you will be in a state of bind the minute you start to flex. To a degree, it can handle this well but if you push that point too far, yes, it will be a limiting factor in the amount of flex you have. Do that enough or push it further with bigger heavier axles, tires and wheels and, you will blow the bushing (cause the rubber to separate from the collar and/or crush sleeve). For a while, this won't be a real problem but over time, the rubber will wear out and can lead to clunking, shifting and of course, death wobble.
 
wayoflife said:
Factory bushings are bonded rubber meaning, the rubber is physically bonded to the metal collar and crush sleeve that gets pressed into your control arms. Unlike a polyurethane bushing or something like a Johnny joint where the components inside the joint rotate/move (hence, why they need greasing), when you flex on the trail with a factory bushing, the rubber itself twists. Granted, the rubber is very soft and the amount of load is progressive but, you will be in a state of bind the minute you start to flex. To a degree, it can handle this well but if you push that point too far, yes, it will be a limiting factor in the amount of flex you have. Do that enough or push it further with bigger heavier axles, tires and wheels and, you will blow the bushing (cause the rubber to separate from the collar and/or crush sleeve). For a while, this won't be a real problem but over time, the rubber will wear out and can lead to clunking, shifting and of course, death wobble.
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Thanks. I wish evo sold rear uppers. Currie would be just as good quality right? I might just save up for the long arms. The Extreme High Clearance Long Arm Upgrade Kit will turn the Enforcer Kit into the Double D, correct? Then I have a random set of front lowers laying around :thinking:
 
Yep they will. I ran the Currie rear uppers before I installed the double D long arm and they worked great with my Coilovers.
 
wayoflife said:
For just 2.5", it would be total overkill. Honestly, I would save your money and just get what you need. Front lowers to set your caster and, if you get a new rear drive shaft, rear uppers. I can assure you that the rest of your factory arms will not hinder you on the trail with the setup you are wanting to get.
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THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!! :rock::rock::rock:
 
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