Advice

fdnytj06

fdnytj06

New member
Anyone have advice on either running 35,s or 37,s on a stock Tj if future plan is to eventually go 40 ,s
 
fdnytj06 said:
Anyone have advice on either running 35,s or 37,s on a stock Tj if future plan is to eventually go 40 ,s
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We could use a bit more info, I see it's an '06 so you should have a 44 in the rear, is it a rubicon? What short of wheeling will you be doing?
 
Do you plan on buying 35s or 37 then sell them then buy 40 s ? Sounds like a waste of money . Go straight for the 40s and let us know how the axles hold up .:brows:
 
I've seen 37s on stock Rubicon d44s. It won't move until you gear to at least 4.88. And I haven't seen one wheeled hard that way either.
A lot of jk guys including me are running 37s on our Stock Dana 44s. I'd never run a 40 on them unless I was trying to break something while waiting for bigger axles.

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When I bought my rig it had the long arm lift and 37s... The guy didn't wheel it, and It had held up fine for him.. Mine is a 2005 with the 6 speed manual. It had the dana 35/30 and had the warn full floater rear kit.. It had 456 gears and seemed to move along just fine.. The moment I got into some moderate four wheeling on my first trip to the local mountains, it blew the rear end... I fixed it and took it out again... Blew the rear end again.... Then I Went one ton..

It seemed to handle the tires while in two wheel drive, and the previous owner never had any problems, but as soon as you really put it to the test, it would snap... Literally


My ride- 2001 power wheel, 11" plastic tires, upgraded battery, boat sides, custom bumpers, tow hooks, new paint.
 
Long story short- it totally depends on how you drive your jeep.. If you're like the guy I bought mine from who only cared about looks- you could do the 37s- (at least for a while until the axle tubes bend)

If you plan on wheeling it where you actually have to "gas it" up certain obstacles, then you might as well just save your money for at least dana 44s front and rear for 37s max, or dana 60s for 40s..

There are other pros to having the one tons, such as the larger brakes that can actually stop those big tires too..

Sorry if I'm rambling.. Trying to get ready for work..


My ride- 2001 power wheel, 11" plastic tires, upgraded battery, boat sides, custom bumpers, tow hooks, new paint.
 
TrailBear said:
We could use a bit more info, I see it's an '06 so you should have a 44 in the rear, is it a rubicon? What short of wheeling will you be doing?
Click to expand...

It's not a rubi , and not sure how sever I'm looking to go right now , but money wise I can save for 35 or 37 I kno there's alot more to running 37 with the stretch and everything , but def looking to put d44 in front and rear or 60 14 bolt in rear and 44 front off the bat
 
fdnytj06 said:
It's not a rubi , and not sure how sever I'm looking to go right now , but money wise I can save for 35 or 37 I kno there's alot more to running 37 with the stretch and everything , but def looking to put d44 in front and rear or 60 14 bolt in rear and 44 front off the bat
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Mine isn't stretched... Minor fender trimming, and I'm actually looking into making tube fenders for it now..

If you're going to go with 44s, you could do the 37s.

40s are a different animal... They really require some beef.. I'm sure you could get away with it for a while on the 44s, but if you're already swapping axles, why not go for the 60s? Then you can run your 40s without being scared every time you use the throttle.


My ride- 2001 power wheel, 11" plastic tires, upgraded battery, boat sides, custom bumpers, tow hooks, new paint.
 
Awesome thanks for the help I'm thinking to just do the 60 14 bolt in rear d 44 in front and how ever much I wind up saving , either go 35 or 37 that way in order to upgrade one day to 40 my axels will be ready
 
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