Advice for wiring lights

Resqnu

Resqnu

New member
I need some advice on wiring up some LED lights. I'm fairly mechanically inclined, but no so much with electrical stuff and don't won't to cause any issues with the stock electrical system. I recently purchased (2) a-pillar Revolver spots and (2) Revolver floods for the front bumper from Inspired-Engineering. They both came with complete wiring harnesses that include a relay, fuse and switch. In the near future, I will be adding some fender well leds and some led rock lights. I will need 4 switches for now.

I'm trying to decide if I should use the supplied harnesses or look at purchasing a distribution box/switch system like Switch-pros, a Bussman auxiliary panel w/switches? I do like that both of these systems are waterproof. I have also looked at the Apollointech system, which is similar to the s-pod. My concern with the Apollointech is the holes in the bottom which allow the accessories wiring to the box is open to the elements. Or I could use the supplied harness until I make up my mind... lol. I like that the switch pros switch can be mounted on my visor mirror or a pillar for a very clean install. If I go with the bussman, I can mount switches on the a pillar. All I plan on ever having is these lights and adding some rock lights later, so 4 switches total. The switch pros is $500 vs the Bussman is $145 plus about than $30 for switches.

Would some advice on pros/cons and any recommendations.
 
A relay setup is the same as running a control box like the switch pros. The latter is just a lot cleaner. I use the Daystar switch panel for my auxiliaries and lockers. Anything 15amps and under is wired directly to a switch (e-lockers) anything over is wired to a relay.

I'm using 20 Amp OTTRAW switches.

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Thanks guys. So you both prefer the original wiring harness and use a DayStar A pillar panel for the switches? Are the DaySar and Rugged Ridge A Pillar panels the same?
Just trying to learn here. May I ask why you prefer the original harness over a distribution panel?
 
Neither my WJ nor my wife's JK have switch panels. We just cut holes where we wanted the switches for lights, lockers, etc, but if we were to do a switch panel, we would go with Daystar just because of the cost. There are tons of panels on the market but they are so expensive.
 
The original harness is already paid for, so money saved there. I have a painless performance relay harness set up, it can handle the 4 switches you need and a few more for later upgrades and Painless has been around for a while with a very good reputation.


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WJCO said:
Neither my WJ nor my wife's JK have switch panels. We just cut holes where we wanted the switches for lights, lockers, etc, but if we were to do a switch panel, we would go with Daystar just because of the cost. There are tons of panels on the market but they are so expensive.
Click to expand...

Makes a lot of sense on the high cost of the distribution panels. Didn't know if they are needed or just something cool to have.
 
Gadget said:
The original harness is already paid for, so money saved there. I have a painless performance relay harness set up, it can handle the 4 switches you need and a few more for later upgrades and Painless has been around for a while with a very good reputation.


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Click to expand...

Cant's argue you point on the harness is paid for. Just trying to figure out if the more expensive distribution panels are needed or more of a cool to have. I only need 4 switches for now. Can't see needing more, but will not say never...lol I haven't looked into painless.
 
Resqnu said:
Thanks guys. So you both prefer the original wiring harness and use a DayStar A pillar panel for the switches? Are the DaySar and Rugged Ridge A Pillar panels the same?
Just trying to learn here. May I ask why you prefer the original harness over a distribution panel?
Click to expand...

I bought the Daystar for $20. It looks nice but I could never get it to fully click into place.
Might just be a one off, but it was cheap and still does it's job.
I couldn't justify the price on some of the aftermarket switch setups, just seems like a lot for relays.
 
JKDream said:
I bought the Daystar for $20. It looks nice but I could never get it to fully click into place.
Might just be a one off, but it was cheap and still does it's job.
I couldn't justify the price on some of the aftermarket switch setups, just seems like a lot for relays.
Click to expand...

If it does the job, why not use it. So you basically use a supplied wiring harness or did you own wiring and then used the Daystar and switches to control the lights?
 
Resqnu said:
If it does the job, why not use it. So you basically use a supplied wiring harness or did you own wiring and then used the Daystar and switches to control the lights?
Click to expand...

I only used the supplied relay on my light bar because it was over the amperage my switch could handle, and I had it so might as well use it.
I just cut off the factory switch and extended the wires to match my OTTRAW switch.
For the lockers, it's wired directly to the switches and protected by a fuse. They never get hot or cause any issues.
It's pretty straight forward, HOT lead into the switch from the locker, and a HOT and NEG lead out for the lights on the switch.
 
I didn't want a bunch of wires on the battery, relays and fuses from each auxiliary thing to have to place somewhere so I opted for the Painless switch.
nice clean look, no fishing wires into the cabin for future upgrades and the harness is wrapped up nicely along the jeep's harness.
for myself, the time saved now and future upgrades was worth it
 
JKDream said:
I only used the supplied relay on my light bar because it was over the amperage my switch could handle, and I had it so might as well use it.
I just cut off the factory switch and extended the wires to match my OTTRAW switch.
For the lockers, it's wired directly to the switches and protected by a fuse. They never get hot or cause any issues.
It's pretty straight forward, HOT lead into the switch from the locker, and a HOT and NEG lead out for the lights on the switch.
Click to expand...

Thanks for explaining.
 
jeeeep said:
I didn't want a bunch of wires on the battery, relays and fuses from each auxiliary thing to have to place somewhere so I opted for the Painless switch.
nice clean look, no fishing wires into the cabin for future upgrades and the harness is wrapped up nicely along the jeep's harness.
for myself, the time saved now and future upgrades was worth it
Click to expand...

Exactly why I am interested in a distribution panel. Just for a cleaner look. I'm guessing I could wire 4 accessories cleanly, but want the option of adding others cleanly down the road.
 
At first I had the rugged ridge panel for the driver a pillar with a couple of switches for led lights and it looked nice but at night the light was distracting coming from the switches. I hated all the different wire harnesses In my engine bay it just looked messy. So I went ahead and bought a knock off spod that you can get on amazon for I think 180ish and it has worked great. It mounts between the sun visors and I have had zero issues with it and the lighting from the switches isn't distracting like the rugged ridge ones. I got the green color switches. Hope this helps


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JKDream said:
I bought the Daystar for $20. It looks nice but I could never get it to fully click into place.
Might just be a one off, but it was cheap and still does it's job.
I couldn't justify the price on some of the aftermarket switch setups, just seems like a lot for relays.
Click to expand...

You removed the metal clip from the factory piece and installed it onto your daystar panel before installation, Correct? Because skipping this step usually brings people saying ^^^ well, exactly that. It wont "fully click" into place if the clip isnt there to "click" in :thumb:
 
rock lobster27 said:
At first I had the rugged ridge panel for the driver a pillar with a couple of switches for led lights and it looked nice but at night the light was distracting coming from the switches. I hated all the different wire harnesses In my engine bay it just looked messy. So I went ahead and bought a knock off spod that you can get on amazon for I think 180ish and it has worked great. It mounts between the sun visors and I have had zero issues with it and the lighting from the switches isn't distracting like the rugged ridge ones. I got the green color switches. Hope this helps


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Click to expand...

Less mess is the reason I am looking into a distribution style system.
 
Resqnu said:
That is a good looking job with the switches. I only have 1 available. I have the heated seats there.
Click to expand...

With only one spot available, I have an idea to shoot your way. (though it might not be worth the effort for just one switch)

Centralized Accessory Override Signal and Control (Edit: AKA "Master Switch")
With vehicle electrical systems getting more crazy and temperamental to modification, I suggest building anything else, parallel to the existing system, only touching it in robust spots, and not drawing power from the vehicles wiring. Tap into the cigarette outlet (or better yet, go to M7 in the fuse box) send that to the switch, along with 12v dedicated, the signal from the switch goes to a main relay (fused directly from the battery) that powers your extra devices. The switch positions are ON - OFF - ACC (or just ACC - ON), ACC meaning it turns on with your key just like the radio. This is how my far left switch operates, to control the CB and Ham radios.

ACC (M7)------------>switch<----------\/-----------[fuse]-----------Battery +
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ^ ---------- [relay] ------ Awesome custom electrical system


How to tap into the M7 fuse without using a Fuse-Tap
https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/36813-New-Rear-Lighting-Idea?p=704834&viewfull=1#post704834
 
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