Advantage/Disadvantages of "extra width" Dynatracs?
- Thread starter LarryG
- Start date
Running an axle that is 3" wider will allow you to run wheels with more back spacing while maintaining the stance you're wanting or needing. The benefit of wheels that have a back spacing closer to factory will provide a better scrub radius, will help protect your lower ball joints and most importantly, will help prevent your ball joints and bearings from wearing out prematurely. If there is a disadvantage to going this route, it's that a lot of the popular bead lock wheels aren't made with a back spacing that's more than 4".
LarryG
New member
Thanks, Eddie. I "think" I understand. I am thinking the ATX Slabs. Do you know if they are right for the extra width?
NO! You do NOT want the extra width if you're planning on running Slabs. Slabs only have 3.5" of back spacing that'll make your stance too wide.
LarryG
New member
Thank goodness for this forum! Appreciate it, Eddie.
notnalc68
That dude from Mississippi
I have always wondered that. Thx, Eddie!
NevadaZielmeister
Caught the Bug
CAUTION, another Noob coming into the discussion:
So I am guessing that you can get the ProRock 60 in almost any width and the question is should the OP go with "extra wide". This is weird since I went with a Dynatrac XD60 rear axle, full float, which required not only a bolt pattern change (5x139.70 or 5x5.5), but spacers to the front wheels so they could match the rear wheel width. Is this something I should be concerned about with the XD-60 full float while running ATX Slabs? The front spacers, from what I can read from the shop sheet is 1/2 inch. Is that right?
Forgive my noob question and the length of my whiskers as well.
Exodus 4x4
New member
It should probably read 1.5"
mastrcruse
New member
What backspacing are you running on Moby?
My thoughts is to pair a front XD60 and UD60 rear. I'll be going with a wheel/tire combo of 17x9 trail readys and 40/13.5-17. I'm trying to figure out backspacing that I should run. When pairing UD60 front/rear backspacing is 3.5 but not sure how I can go with another backspacing due to the front XD60 change...if there is any. For now, I'll run a 3.5" RK long arm X factor kit and will eventually upgrade to the DTD kit. Also, I'll be DDing it for about a year before I buy a new truck and retire it to a fun only vehicle.
Any advice? Is it stupid that I want to pair a XD60 front and Ud60 rear? I have contemplating staying at a 37" tire but have heard from many that their JKs actually rode better with 40s vs. 37's and the width wouldn't be different so it'd still end up being the same width either way I go.
Sorry, not sure what you're asking. Being that you're running a ProRock 44 front axle, you needed to run a set of wheel "adapters" to make it possible to run the same wheels as your full float rear with 5x5.5 bolt patter wheels. As luck would have it, your 1" wheel adapters up front also help to bring your axle width to being about the same as your rear. The combination of 1" wheel adapter and wheels that have 3.5" of back spacing WILL cause your unit bearings and ball joints to wear out prematurely BUT, it's not like they're going to self destruct tomorrow. As you know, I run this setup on Rubicat and it does great, you just need to be aware that you will be replacing parts sooner than would be expected if you were still running stock components - this is just the cost of doing business.
Yes. If you run a wider axle, you will need a new adjustable steering components.
Moby is currently running ATX Chamber Pro II's and they have 4.06" of back spacing. If you're going to pair up an XD60 with a UD60, I would just get the XD60 in a standard length. As far as it being stupid goes, it's your money and your Jeep and you should just do whatever it is you want with it and not worry about what other people think. Not something I would do but then, your Jeep isn't mine.
Don't know who the "many" are that you've "heard" from but if you trust their opinion, you should do what they recommend. I run both a 40" tire and a 37" tire on two separate JK's that are built pretty much the same and I can't say I have any clue as to what "they" are talking about. Of course, what would I know.
mastrcruse
New member
Great, thanks.
So if I've got the UD60 rear, would you suggest sticking with a UD60 front? Or was your comment more directed toward going with a dynatrac rear vs, the UD60 rear? I shouldn't have said stupid, I should have said is there any reason not to go with a mix and matched pair? Mechanical/electronic issues I might be faced with mix and matching.
Let me be clearer because I didn't really ask a specific question around tires. Would you rather DD Rubicat on 37's or 40's?
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My comment was more directed toward sticking with Dynatrac. Mixing and matching won't make a difference but quality control will.
Is it safe to assume you're wanting to get a rear UD60 to save money? If money is a concern, I would definitely stick with 37s. You can make 40s work great as a DD but if you plan to play hard with it too, it'll cost more to do right. Once you get up on 40s, you WILL break shit. 37s are a lot more forgiving and really, a great setup for most people. I take Rubicat out to all the same malls as Moby.
NevadaZielmeister
Caught the Bug
Thank you again Eddie for all of your help.
mastrcruse
New member
Thanks Eddie, I appreciate your help. My wife bought a UD60 rear for my bday so it's what I'm building off of. Money isn't a concern which is why I'm looking to go with an XD60. I was thinking, since I'm about a year from a new truck, to run 37" SST pros with a XD60 front/UD60 rear and then go to something larger when it's more of a 3rd vehicle.
Got it. That being the case, you should be able to build up your Jeep to run 40's as a DD and make it something you can wheel hard as well. The UD60 is at least a full float rear so that'll help out a lot. Being a high pinion, it'll still be running on the weak side of the gear but then, the same can be said about the XD60.
ud60 rear is low pinion. I would love to see a scientific strength comparison between an lp jk44 and an hp60. I bet the difference is not as big as one would think. At least as far as the r&p is concerned, the housing is another story. In any case you can order dynatrac 60s with low pinion and that's what I'd do. Run a yoke skid if you're worried about it.
My mistake and you are correct. The UD60 is a low pinion and therefore would be stronger.
If you're gonna run 40's, I too would recommend a ProRock 80. In fact, it is what I'm running
