A Build Plan for future fun

Boatbuilder

New member
Hello all. This is really my first foray into the world of forums.
As a newbie, I'm looking for some feedback with parts selection and modification order. I think that the order below seems logical to me, but as I said I'm a newbie and not know intricacies that would bite. I'm starting with a stock 16 JKUR hardtop. Manual Trans, 410 Gears. We do drive it some when we are away from home. We have a motorhome and the jeep is so easy to flat tow. But it is mostly for fun. I have made my first mod, I removed all the stock stickers. I never thought that a wrangler needed a sticker to tell you it was a wrangler.
I'd like to do my build in 3 passes. No that's not true. I'd like to do it all at once, but I found out they want money for the parts. After reading other build plans, I'm heading in a relatively different direction. I think many builds seem to start with the lift and tires with available dollars and then upgrading with additional cost to get to where they want to be. I'm planning on putting in some basic mods while I save money for the lift and infrastructure to support 37s. While stock is somewhat limited, I'll live with it. For me, foregoing the interim steps saves money and allows me to get to the final state quicker. And yes, with a Jeep nothing is ever a "final" state.

The first pass will include:
1. DynoMax Quiet Crawler Exhaust
2. EVO Rock Sliders
3. Rock Hard Shorty front Bumper with lowered winch plate and tow brackets (to flat tow behind motorhome)
4. Warn Powerplant
5. Bestop Sunrider top
6. Switch Pro system
7. Rock Hard Sport Cage
8. Diff covers
9. Oil Pan Transmissionn Skid
10. Lights (additions and replacements)

The second pass will be:
1. J.E. Reel 1350 front driveshaft
2. EVO Front Lower Control Arms
3. EVO Bolt On Coilovers (front and back)
4. EVO Draglink Flip
5. Dynatrac Progrip Brakes

I have some questions about the second pass. I'd like to run stock wheels and tires until I can afford slabs and 37s. Is it possible to do this with the coilovers? The "recommended" backspacing is 3.75 inches or less. Are there spacers that would get me close enough with stock Rubi wheels to be useable? Or do I need to wait until I can afford the wheels and do the wheels as part of the second pass? I'm guessing that the stock tires could look funny on any aftermarket wheels, but I'll live with it. Because I won't be upgrading the tires, I'll be running the coilovers at the minimum height they support. I think I read that this is about 2.5 inches without producing any issues.

For the third pass.
1. Cut fenders
2. Chromoly Front Axle Shafts
3. Front Axle Gussets
4. 37 Wheels and Tires
5. Rear Bumper
6. Gears?

I'd like to run this for a while before I decide if I need a long arm upgrade. You know, the "final" final state.
Any comments about running the stock 410 gears with 37s (manual Trans)? I think I read that at least some people were happy or at least OK with this setup.
Any issues with this plan I'm missing? Any required pieces missing?
Thanks in advance.
 
Only quickly looking over your list, you should hold off on the drive shafts until you have adjustable control arms. You'll need them to set your pinion angle and help prevent driveline vibrations.

and Welcome to WAL! From someone who is going to live near you sometime next year! :thumb:
 
Might reconsider the PowerPlant and go with a Zeon 10-S and an Arb compressor instead. Some of the power plants have had issues.

If you're putting this much money in, you really should do another $1000 to regear once you're on 37s. And you'll need a FlashCal or something like it account for the larger tire.

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Build thread: http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=32769
 
Only quickly looking over your list, you should hold off on the drive shafts until you have adjustable control arms. You'll need them to set your pinion angle and help prevent driveline vibrations.

and Welcome to WAL! From someone who is going to live near you sometime next year! :thumb:

Thanks,
Welcome to the west coast (whenever you get here).
 
Only quickly looking over your list, you should hold off on the drive shafts until you have adjustable control arms. You'll need them to set your pinion angle and help prevent driveline vibrations.

and Welcome to WAL! From someone who is going to live near you sometime next year! :thumb:

I have the front lowers as part of the second phase. From what I read, I thought was what was required. Do I need to do all the control arms as part of the lift?
 
I have the front lowers as part of the second phase. From what I read, I thought was what was required. Do I need to do all the control arms as part of the lift?

No, you had it right the first time. Front lowers are needed to set your caster and rear uppers to set your pinion angle (if you get a rear drive shaft). I missed that info in your second phase because I looked over it too quickly.

I also highly recommend regearing (5.13s with 37s), it is my favorite mod that I've done to my JKUR.
 
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