desertrunner
Hooked
does anyone out there know of a good video that explains how a 3 link rear suspension setup works or has some pictures of theirs that show how it actually helps get more flex out of the rear?
3 link rear conversion
- Thread starter desertrunner
- Start date
Sorry, don't have any pics or vids but can tell you that ideally, a good triangulated 3-link setup will allow you to get rid of your track bar. That alone will not only keep your axle centered but, allow you to have a greater degree of "bind free" flex. A 3-link like what Rock Krawler runs still maintains a track bar but, having one less link to deal with will still offer a good amount of "bind free" flex. Having said that, I do need to clarify that the key words here are "bind free". While that will make a difference, your total flex will always be limited by the amount of travel your shocks provide. If you want really big flex, a good coil over system like what EVO makes is the only way you're gonna get it and, you can even get it with short arms.
desertrunner
Hooked
im running a 3.5" lift with the bilstein 5100s for a 3.5-5" lift so hopefully my shocks arent the limiting factor and yes while coilovers would be the best option they are also a hefty chunk of change so i was sorta looking into the RK 3 link to get some more flex out of the rear but i wanted to understand how it worked better so i know what im looking at
I hate to burst your bubble but, if you've ever run your Jeep on an RTI ramp along side other similarly built rigs, you would find that ALL score about the same. This is regardless if you are running a 4-link setup, a 3-link setup, long arms or short. In the end, you are still limited by the length of your shocks and the amount of travel they provide. The only time you will see a noticeable difference is if you were to run coil overs.
Here's a shot of how far up a group of JK's got on a 30° RTI ramp. Please note, what you are seeing is everything from a stock 2-door, stock 4-door, budget boost lifted, long arm lifted and everything in between and made by a myriad of brands. As you will see, most all got up to about the same range with two exceptions - CTIMRUN and WAYOFLIFE. Both were running short arms and Tim had coil overs installed up front only. I was running coil overs front and rear.
Needless to say, before you kick down any money on a kit with the hopes of gaining more flex, just realize that you may not be getting as much as you're hoping for.
desertrunner
Hooked
man i love this forum for all the great information but my wallet is sure feeling the wrath :cheesy:
looks like i might as well save up and get the good stuff
i still would like some more info on how the 3 link set up works if anyone knows of a good you tube vid that explains it of something? :thinking:
LOL!! Actually, I was just trying to save you some money by helping you to see that there's no need to buy things you don't need or, in this case, give you enough additional flex to matter.
Sorry, wish I could help you out there. Again, the only real difference between an RK 3-link and a standard 4-link is that you have one less upper control arm to deal with. That alone will give you more bind free flex but, you'll still have a rear track bar in place and again, your flex will still be limited by the amount of travel your shocks provide. There really are no two ways about it.
piginajeep
The Original Smartass
Check out the Rancho 3 link if you really want one
desertrunner
Hooked
so does the "binding" during flex come from the track bar wanting to push the axle to the right or the left while dropping? and the 4 link set up getting rid of the track bar makes the axle free to flex without being pushed left or right?
The track bar is just one more link that's holding things in place. Get rid of it and get rid of one control arm and the axle itself will be allow to move more freely. To a degree, this can be seen as more articulation than what you would see with a 4-link setup but it really isn't all that much more. Significant flex can only come from coil overs.
munstie
New member
So in my case with my lift would you three link or four link the rear, looking to get rid of the radius arm setup, already four linking the front.
2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.
While the thought of a 3-link is alluring, I've had enough experiences with broken control arms or mounts over the years to appreciate redundancy. Needless to say, I prefer 4-links.
piginajeep
The Original Smartass
Fulltraction use to make a conversion kit for the RE radius arm. The front was a really nice set up.
munstie
New member
R.E. is making a front and rear 4 link kit now and it's built with majority of the parts I already have, so I guess I will be four linking the rear.
2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.
piginajeep
The Original Smartass
Nice, from what I understand they changed out the shitty bushings to a new rubber as well. I have not heard of how they perform but it's a step in the right direction