3" Frankenlift

Pretty Fly

Pretty Fly

New member
Im wanting to piece together my own lift on a 2014 Rubicon X (unlimited). I will be running 305/70/17 on a rim with 4.75 Backspacing. I have run these tires with no bump spacers and had minor rubbing front and rear at full flex. Im thinking:
EVO 3" plushride springs
EVO spec King 2.0 shocks
Currie front lower control arms
Currie Rear upper control arms
Currie front rack bar
Rear track bar bracket, not sure which one yet but I dont want to cut or weld unless I have too. Maybe Metal Cloak?
Crown extended brake lines
Move rear sway bar links to the front, extended links for the rear
JKS front bump stops (adjustable but I want to set to 2")
Rock Krawler 2" rear bumpstops
Front drive shaft. Probably go with Adams, I hope to not use exhaust spacers with the smaller diameter drive shaft??

Am I missing anything or setting myself up for trouble? I will probably add drag link flip kit in the future if it can wait. I would like to see how it is without and how much lift I acually get. I know I would have to run 3" bump spacing with a flip kit. Thanks guys, I have come up with this list mostly from searching posts here.
 
I am going to be running 315/70/17s with only a 2.5 budget boost. With 3 inch plush rides you can deff go bigger in tire size. :yup:
Hell you cut your fenders you could probably run 37s. :thumb:
 
i dont know what a currie front rack bar is but im assuming its the anti rock sway bar? if so i would skip it and keep the rubi E-disco. this will provide better support when driving on the highway and not limit your flex or anything on the trail. also your saving about $600 as well for other mods.

as for the rest it looks good to me. i may suggest closer to 3" bumpstops f/r (at least 2.5"), not to keep your tires from rubbing but to make sure you dont over compress your coils (make them so solid) and bottom out your shocks. also since you may be keeping your rubi sway bar i would look at possibly longer front links then just the stock rears. the longer links will keep your sway bar from flipping over on its self.
 
MR.Ty said:
I am going to be running 315/70/17s with only a 2.5 budget boost. With 3 inch plush rides you can deff go bigger in tire size. :yup:
Hell you cut your fenders you could probably run 37s. :thumb:
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Yes, I ran them for a month this summer with a leveling kit, I mostly want the down travel of longer springs and shocks.
 
cozdude said:
i dont know what a currie front rack bar is but im assuming its the anti rock sway bar? if so i would skip it and keep the rubi E-disco. this will provide better support when driving on the highway and not limit your flex or anything on the trail. also your saving about $600 as well for other mods.

as for the rest it looks good to me. i may suggest closer to 3" bumpstops f/r (at least 2.5"), not to keep your tires from rubbing but to make sure you dont over compress your coils (make them so solid) and bottom out your shocks. also since you may be keeping your rubi sway bar i would look at possibly longer front links then just the stock rears. the longer links will keep your sway bar from flipping over on its self.
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Thanks, that should have read "track bar", adjustable to center the axle.
 
Pretty Fly said:
Thanks, that should have read "track bar", adjustable to center the axle.
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ahhhh ok that makes sense. personally what i would do i just get the evo drag link flip kit and run your stock track bar. this will get your whole steering geometry back to spec and help recenter your axle at the sametime. even with an adjustable trackbar your axle will never be centered just because that is the nature of the beast with solid axles. once you load up with gas or passengers it will shift.
 
Pretty Fly said:
Thanks, that should have read "track bar", adjustable to center the axle.
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Skip the track bar, use the evo drag link flip kit to center your axle it's a lil cheaper and you'll have better steering geometry and it gets your steering stabilizer up out of harms way
Edit you beat me to it coz :thumb:
 
looks good, not sure what length of shocks you're planning on. don't really need rear uppers for a 4 door. i would do a drag ling flip with the money you saved from the rear uppers and front track bar. just re-use your factory front track bar. evo has a nice rear track bar bracket that is built right. you would need 3'' bump stops. i take it you're running factory fenders?
 
Looks like you plan to keep the stock rear driveshaft... If so I would skip the rear upper arms. On a 4-door the pinion angle will not be very far off and the CV joints will not bind with the slight mis-alignment.

I would stay away from the MC rear trackbar and bracket. I tried it, and had to removed it for roll-bump issues. I think they might've redesigned the bracket again to correct this issue, but wouldn't change it. There are better options out there (Synergy and EVO).

Edit to add... Looks like olram30 beat me :)
 
Check the cost of the Currie adjustable front track bar and the EVO drag link flip. With the drag link flip it raises the track bar location 3 inches which will allow you to run the factory track bar.


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also, if you're going to move your factory sway bar links up front, you'll need new 13" long ones for the rear with 3" evo coils:thumb:
 
Why not just run the EVO Enforcer lift with the drag link flip instead of your "frankenlift" of all the parts listed? Make one phone call or mouse click, everything should work together because its pieced together by Offroad Evolution/EVO.
 
I wasn't going with the enforcer kit for a couple reasons.
1. I have some of the parts already. so I dont need everything in the kit
2. I like the Currie arms because the parts to rebuild seem to be available easily

It looks like everyone recommend the drag link flip kit, does any one know if this is reversible? If I understand to installation correctly, you drill out the steering knuckle and install a tapered bushing. Can this bushing be flipped around if I remove the lift and flip the drag link back down or would I need to purchase a new knuckle?
 
Pretty Fly said:
I wasn't going with the enforcer kit for a couple reasons.
1. I have some of the parts already. so I dont need everything in the kit
2. I like the Currie arms because the parts to rebuild seem to be available easily

It looks like everyone recommend the drag link flip kit, does any one know if this is reversible? If I understand to installation correctly, you drill out the steering knuckle and install a tapered bushing. Can this bushing be flipped around if I remove the lift and flip the drag link back down or would I need to purchase a new knuckle?
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you should be able to put the bushing on the bottom if you went back to stock.
 
OK, lots of feedback. Almost everyone thinks I should eliminate the adjustable track bar and go to a drag link flip kit with 3" bumpstops. I think I will do that. And no rear upper control arms for now?
 
nope you will be good without them. if you want to get them just for the future rear aftermarket DS you can but otherwise you will be good without them till you do.
 
Pretty Fly said:
OK, lots of feedback. Almost everyone thinks I should eliminate the adjustable track bar and go to a drag link flip kit with 3" bumpstops. I think I will do that. And no rear upper control arms for now?
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i am running the 3 in EVO Plush Rides with RK Front LCA'S and Stock ever where else.
 
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