2016 JKU Rubicon + Evo Enforcer + 35's?

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Weeeee

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My first post here!

I recently ordered a 2016 Rubicon Unlimited, Tank, Auto with 4.10 gears and a bunch of other options. Now I am looking for lift, tires, armor, bumpers etc.
I am new to the JK world but not new to Jeep's, so I am looking for some suggestions and advice.

The goals for my Rubi build are as follows:

Daily Driver
Lift for 35"s
Armor and bumpers aluminum where possible for weight savings
Capable as weekend warrior
Mild rock's
Moderate trails
Overland expedition vehicle
Comfortable ride for long trips (I have a bad back and the TJ is slowly killing me)


I am thinking of going with the ORE Evo Enforcer kit with the drag link flip.

Questions:

I want to keep the stock flairs and do not want to cut them, with 35's would I need the 3 or 4 inch lift?


Shocks -
Bilstein 5100 - I have run these and I am not that impressed
Rancho RS 9000XL - Currently run these on a TJ and previously on a Durango and I like the ride. The only thing I don't like is the paint sucks on these and living in the midwest they rust within a year. I have also had issues with shearing off the adjuster knobs on the rocks. Based on reading these forums they sound like a good match and less expensive then KIng's.

I have no experience with the king shocks and I am curious if they are worth the money over the Rancho's
King 2.0
King 2.5

What else will I need that is not included with the lift, front drive shaft, rims with how much back spacing, etc ?
 
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Welcome, be sure to to give us a wave!
I'd go with the 4" kit it would look nice with 35's and stock fenders and if you wanted to cut them and throw 37's under there eventually you can. Both ranch and Bilstein shocks are good with those coils from what I've heard. You probably won't need kings if it's mainly daily driver and weekend overland. You will also need a front driveshaft I believe. Also wheel spacers or new wheels that have the correct backspacing.
 
I think you can run 35s on the 3" as well. If your running the proper bump stops you should be ok. That will help keep your COG low. Mr. Ty is running 35s on a budget boost with full fenderd so maybe he will chime in.

Edit. Either way youll need the front DS as said above, and spacers for factory wheels.
 
MedixJK said:
I think you can run 35s on the 3" as well. If your running the proper bump stops you should be ok. That will help keep your COG low. Mr. Ty is running 35s on a budget boost with full fenderd so maybe he will chime in.

Edit. Either way youll need the front DS as said above, and spacers for factory wheels.
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Thought you had 3 inch? Or did you go with the 4 inch?

OP, I run 35s on a 2.5 inch coil lift with factory untrimmed fender flares. I'm looking at going with the EVO 4 inch and leave my fender flares untrimmed to run my 35s until I can get 37s and then trim the fenders. I will prob just go with some bilsteins or ranchos until I can go coil overs or something.
 
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Keep it simple. With what you are describing you can easily do stock.

So I would suggest just a simple build where you change stock components as little as possible.
 
TheStick said:
Keep it simple. With what you are describing you can easily do stock.

So I would suggest just a simple build where you change stock components as little as possible.
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^^^ this. You will be surprised how capable Rubicons are directly off show room floor. Maybe consider a budget boost for the tougher look. Just know, one modification leads to three more. It can get expensive fast
 
3" lift is good to go for 35s and full fenders. Just make sure you get the proper bump stops. I'm running 3" of actual lift and 35s. Just keep in mind an advertised 3" lift will likely give you more than 3" of actual lift. Plan on a driveshaft if you go over 3" of actual lift. Good luck and keep us posted on what you do!
 
Torqt JK said:
^^^ this. You will be surprised how capable Rubicons are directly off show room floor. Maybe consider a budget boost for the tougher look. Just know, one modification leads to three more. It can get expensive fast
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Oh I know how this work's! :D My TJ has been a work in progress for 6 years, and it's still not done. I had thought about a BB and stick with 33's but I am not a fan of how they look on the JKU. I like the look of 35's and 37's but too much to do for 37's, so I have settled on 35's. The plan is to have it all built out the way I want at least 95% by next spring.
 
I have a 2015 in TANK and have a 3" Mopar lift, 35's, stock fenders, stock wheels (1.5" spacers) and no drive shaft needed. Looks great! IMO

.....but I caught the bug and am already planning on 37's, flat fenders and probably a new front dynatrac axle.

TankRubicon.jpg
 
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KICKROX said:
I have a 2015 in TANK and have a 3" Mopar lift, 35's, stock fenders, stock wheels (1.5" spacers) and no drive shaft needed. Looks great! IMO

.....but I caught the bug and am already planning on 37's, flat fenders and probably a new front dynatrac axle.
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Keep an eye on the driveshaft. If your wheeling, and it looks like you do, it wont last long.
 
hhunter050 said:
This is something I have experienced. Get a new front driveshaft lol it sucks breaking on the trail
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And there is no such thing as "if you stay below 2.7569 inches of lift, you dont need one." If your shocks are longer than stock, your more than likely gonna rip your slip shaft boot.
 
MedixJK said:
And there is no such thing as "if you stay below 2.7569 inches of lift, you dont need one." If your shocks are longer than stock, your more than likely gonna rip your slip shaft boot.
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Hahaha so true. It just takes longer if the lift is smaller but all lifts will break your shaft after a while if you wheel at all
 
Awesome congrats on the jeep I don't have experience with that lift so can't give an accurate suggestion but good luck with it
 
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