2014 JKU wrangler front/rear brake pad/rotor replacement

BasClaws

New member
I looked at the how-to guide that is stickied and had a few dumb questions to ask LOL. Here is the referenced post: https://wayalife.com/showthread.php...-Brake-Pad-Replacement?highlight=brake+grease

I see a lot of people recommend using grease on caliper pins/contact areas and the back of the brake pads. However, I do not see this in the how-to guide, so my question is if it is necessary and what kind of grease could I pick up at my local auto store to use? Also, I've been told I should put Loctite on the caliper mounting bolts, is this a good idea? I was in a hurry to get the parts in because I leave for vacation Saturday so I am kind of time-crunched. I bought Wagner them quiet pads front and rear with Raybestos rotors, are these good choices?
 
I looked at the how-to guide that is stickied and had a few dumb questions to ask LOL. Here is the referenced post: https://wayalife.com/showthread.php...-Brake-Pad-Replacement?highlight=brake+grease

I see a lot of people recommend using grease on caliper pins/contact areas and the back of the brake pads. However, I do not see this in the how-to guide, so my question is if it is necessary and what kind of grease could I pick up at my local auto store to use? Also, I've been told I should put Loctite on the caliper mounting bolts, is this a good idea? I was in a hurry to get the parts in because I leave for vacation Saturday so I am kind of time-crunched. I bought Wagner them quiet pads front and rear with Raybestos rotors, are these good choices?

I use permatex high temp brake grease, and yes you can get it at the local auto parts store.

I never lock tighted the caliper bolts. Just torque them.

Never used those pads, I had a set of Pro grips on those axles.

I always greased the the stainless slides, caliper pins, the back and front of the metal backer plates and the piston on the caliper.


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
 
I looked at the how-to guide that is stickied and had a few dumb questions to ask LOL. Here is the referenced post: https://wayalife.com/showthread.php...-Brake-Pad-Replacement?highlight=brake+grease

I see a lot of people recommend using grease on caliper pins/contact areas and the back of the brake pads. However, I do not see this in the how-to guide, so my question is if it is necessary and what kind of grease could I pick up at my local auto store to use? Also, I've been told I should put Loctite on the caliper mounting bolts, is this a good idea? I was in a hurry to get the parts in because I leave for vacation Saturday so I am kind of time-crunched. I bought Wagner them quiet pads front and rear with Raybestos rotors, are these good choices?

Grease should be used on any spots where metal touches metal. As far as loctite on the bolts, I've never done it. Just make sure they're torqued properly.
 
I use permatex high temp brake grease, and yes you can get it at the local auto parts store.

I never lock tighted the caliper bolts. Just torque them.

Never used those pads, I had a set of Pro grips on those axles.

I always greased the the stainless slides, caliper pins, the back and front of the metal backer plates and the piston on the caliper.


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler

Ahh, okay, thanks! I actually found some Permatex Silicone Ceramic Extreme lubricant I found in the garage ill use. It says its safe for rubber for the slide pin boots, which is what I was worried about. Thanks again!
 
Ahh, okay, thanks! I actually found some Permatex Silicone Ceramic Extreme lubricant I found in the garage ill use. It says its safe for rubber for the slide pin boots, which is what I was worried about. Thanks again!

No worries, enjoy the trip!


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
 
One last question then I think I'll be all set. Do I have to bleed the brakes or open the breather or anything like that?
 
Put the locktite on. You don’t want to replace a whee exhaust a caliper bolt fell off and the caliper rotated up and spun in the wheel. I speak from experience. Not fun on the side of the road.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
One last question then I think I'll be all set. Do I have to bleed the brakes or open the breather or anything like that?

No, but you will need to pump the brake pedal 3-4 times to build pressure back up on the system.

Just another tip, Use a c clamp to compress the piston as you get ready to reinstall the caliper before you grease it.


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
 
One last question then I think I'll be all set. Do I have to bleed the brakes or open the breather or anything like that?

If you don't disconnect any of the hydraulic brake lines you should be good to go without bleeding. It is a good idea to pump the brake pedal gently after everything is back together to make sure something isn't wrong, it should be firm after only a pump or two. Test your new brakes at an idle speed then a few more times faster and faster until you are certain they work correctly.
 
Just another tip, Use a c clamp to compress the piston as you get ready to reinstall the caliper before you grease it.


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler

This... Also take the cap off of the master cylinder reservoir to make pushing the fluid back easier and if it is already full you will want to siphon some fluid out to keep it from overflowing as the fluid gets pushed back.
 
Put the locktite on. You don’t want to replace a whee exhaust a caliper bolt fell off and the caliper rotated up and spun in the wheel. I speak from experience. Not fun on the side of the road.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

AMEN! Had this happen to me TWICE! Once on each front side before I learned! Live axles vibrate a lot more than 2wd or non-live axle 4wd/AWD suspensions. Locktite, and torque to 120ftlbs, I believe is the setting. I now carry a set of caliper bracket bolts in my trail spares gear as they can be hard to come by.
 
This... Also take the cap off of the master cylinder reservoir to make pushing the fluid back easier and if it is already full you will want to siphon some fluid out to keep it from overflowing as the fluid gets pushed back.

Lots of great information shared here, thanks, everyone! I torqued everything down properly and used blue Loctite on the caliper pins/bolts and put it back together. Fortunately, all of my rotors and pads looked great so I am not sure where the noise is coming from...starting to think it's my suspension system maybe. Gonna take it to my mechanic who said he'll diagnose it for free then go from there.
 
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