2013 JKU front hubs

TomDabb

TomDabb

Member
Today my project was supposed to be replacement of the front hubs and bearings. Before I got started I checked my tools.
I discovered my torque wrench only goes up to 150 ft-lbs. Bummer spec is higher.
What is your go to large torque wrench?


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TomDabb said:
Today my project was supposed to be replacement of the front hubs and bearings. Before I got started I checked my tools.
I discovered my torque wrench only goes up to 150 ft-lbs. Bummer spec is higher.
What is your go to large torque wrench?


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Hubs? Are you just talking the unit bearing? I don’t remember anything being over 150 ft-lbs.


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Not 100% positive but there Shouldn’t be anything involved in then unit bearing with high of torque, Eddie has a great JK torque spec worksheet on project Jk. Basically everything you’ll need.


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TomDabb said:
The large nut that secures the hub bearing to the axle.


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That’s only 100ft-lbs if I remember correctly. I think the brake caliper would be the highest torque required to do that job and it isn’t past 150 either. As mentioned above, check out that post. And the axle nut doesn’t secure the unit bearing. The three bolts on the back side are what holds it on.


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No problem. Just a heads up, the unit bearing may fight you coming off. If it does just don’t take the 3 mounting bolts out all the way at first and use them as a place to tap with a hammer. Make sure to use some wood or a shallow socket (they should be 13mm 12 point) so the hammer doesn’t roll the bolt head at all. Good luck and let us know if you have any trouble.


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Thanks
I found the Project JK spread sheet written by Cindy with all the torque specs - It’s now saved on my phones home screen - Thank you Cindy, too.


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Good to know

This good to know, I have a club member wanting to com-letely rebuild a very used 44 he is putting in his 2013 Sahara. I love this Wayalife:thumb:
 
Speedy_RCW said:
...just don’t take the 3 mounting bolts out all the way at first and use them as a place to tap with a hammer. Make sure to use some wood or a shallow socket (they should be 13mm 12 point) so the hammer doesn’t roll the bolt head at all.
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That's a really good tip. I had never thought about that before.
 
Hey speedy
As a follow up today I pulled the front wheels. The mechanic told me the hub bearing needed to be replaced sooner rather than later. So I took him on his word.
Up on jacks stands I pulled and pushed the free hanging wheels as one would do to check, I found NO play what so ever......think it’s time this week to have him SHOW me.
So, I have spares around. Probable not worth shipping back.


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TomDabb said:
Hey speedy
As a follow up today I pulled the front wheels. The mechanic told me the hub bearing needed to be replaced sooner rather than later. So I took him on his word.
Up on jacks stands I pulled and pushed the free hanging wheels as one would do to check, I found NO play what so ever......think it’s time this week to have him SHOW me.
So, I have spares around. Probable not worth shipping back.


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Yeah I think it would be wise to have him show or explain his rationale for recommending it be replaced. It could be difficult to tell just by feel. Maybe he actually put a dial indicator on it or something. Personally, if I were in your shoes (have the parts and prepared to do the job) I’d just go ahead and swap it out. They’re pretty cheap. But as I said, it’s definitely worth talking to your mechanic about.


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