2-Door 2.0 Oil Pan Skid...

4

4PLAY

Caught the Bug
My first search for an oil pan skid for my '24 JLR-X w/2.0 was EVO as I have the Protek on my '20 JLR 3.6 and very happy with it...However EVO does not offer this for the 2-door 2.0.
Looked at most everything out there and thought the Artec was one of the best options and took advantage of a Labor Day sale on the Artec 2.0 oil pan skid and it arrived today, less than $550 including shipping!
Too busy to install this weekend as getting ready for a 25th Anniversary Event for our company next Friday...Hard for me to believe 25 years have passed, hopping for another great 25 years! Will install next weekend after first oil change and installation of the Stahlbus Quick Oil Drain Valve. I will feel much more comfortable with a little protection for the engine and trans oil pans, then off to wheel the AZ rock gardens!:giggle:
 
Got around to doing my first oil change a week ago (didn't want to install the oil pan skid till I installed the Stahlbus oil valve for no-mess oil drains) so this past weekend I was going to install the Artec oil pan skid. I had noticed an oil burning odor after freeway driving and thought I must have spilled some oil on the driveshaft when I removed the oil filter and then it got kicked up on the exhaust...Nope, everything near engine bone dry.
But I discovered a leak between the transmission and transfer case:mad: I decided not to install the skid plate until I get this leakage/seepage repaired as I didn't want to give anyone an excuse to say "your skid plate trapped heat and caused the seal failure' or some other nonsense. A full frame-rail to frame-rail bellypan system could trap heat but not just an oil pan skid...

Engine area dry as a bone...
IMG_6554.jpeg

Transmission to transfer case anything but dry...
IMG_6559.jpeg
 
Got a call from the service advisor and told me the technician said the transfer output seal failed due to angle of the driveshaft due to lift...I said BS, the angle is not much different than stock and rear is only an inch higher than stock. Also the leak is between the transmission and transfer case, not the back end of the transfer case. Plus just a little over 5000 miles on the rig and I have noticed a slight smell for a while but this is common on brand new vehicles during break-in. I told them if they don't want to warranty it, I will pick it up and take care of it myself...

Expect a positive resolution tomorrow...
 
4PLAY said:
Got a call from the service advisor and told me the technician said the transfer output seal failed due to angle of the driveshaft due to lift...I said BS, the angle is not much different than stock and rear is only an inch higher than stock. Also the leak is between the transmission and transfer case, not the back end of the transfer case. Plus just a little over 5000 miles on the rig and I have noticed a slight smell for a while but this is common on brand new vehicles during break-in. I told them if they don't want to warranty it, I will pick it up and take care of it myself...

Expect a positive resolution tomorrow...
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they are getting the "lift blame" on record to flag your Jeep from further warranty repair requests.
 
4PLAY said:
Got a call from the service advisor and told me the technician said the transfer output seal failed due to angle of the driveshaft due to lift...I said BS, the angle is not much different than stock and rear is only an inch higher than stock. Also the leak is between the transmission and transfer case, not the back end of the transfer case. Plus just a little over 5000 miles on the rig and I have noticed a slight smell for a while but this is common on brand new vehicles during break-in. I told them if they don't want to warranty it, I will pick it up and take care of it myself...

Expect a positive resolution tomorrow...
Click to expand...
Has the Jeep spent much/any time in 4WD? If not, sounds like a BS argument. Assuming front driveshaft is disengaged in 2WD.
 
bobfriesenhahn said:
Has the Jeep spent much/any time in 4WD? If not, sounds like a BS argument. Assuming front driveshaft is disengaged in 2WD.
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Not yet, engaged 4WD just briefly on a light trail to make sure everything was working normally...all of about 2 miles.

Long, long ago in a previous life, I was a line technician for a large CDJR dealer (6 years) and then migrated to one of the southwest's largest Mercedes dealers (another 6 years) where I went from technician to shop foreman to service director.

I have to call BS on this...
 
Ok, I was tired last night and only wanted to type once...
Bottom line is neither transmission nor transfer case is leaking! The misunderstanding / confusion started Wednesday on the service drive when I dropped off the Jeep and the service advisor asked the technician who was nearby to take a look under the Jeep, he confirmed either the trans or transfer case was leaking. Later that day I got a call from the service advisor saying the technician told him my lift changed the driveline angle and caused the seal failure. Yesterday when I called to say I would just pick up the Jeep I was told a part was ordered and would be covered under warranty. When I arrived it was explained that the service drive diagnosis was incorrect and a fine mist was being sprayed from the top of the front driveshaft boot onto where the transmission and transfer case mate, even though the boot itself seemed dry. I confirmed this myself by thoroughly cleaning this area at a self serve car wash and then driving both on surface streets (no sign of leakage / spray mist) and then on the freeway at 75-80mph for several miles-this time there was a fine mist of oil/grease on the transmission/transfer case interface. You could now trace this to a fine spray coming from the top of the Rzeppa boot, strangely no blow back on the boot itself. It does appear the top of the boot is not as snug as it should be.

The front driveshaft angle is not much different from stock (XR package on 2-door) but has slightly changed. Teraflex now offers a high-angle Rzeppa CV joint kit that is specifically designed for JL's up to 3 inch lifted and designed for more severe driveline angles than the stock Rzeppa joint can tolerate...To me, this is worth trying in addition to just replacing the stock boot.
 
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There is so much to unpack here. First why is the font so big in your text? Is there a need?

Second, you could try and actually type out your stuff here instead of just copy and pasting from another forum.

Lastly, you are replacing your factory rzeppa driveshaft that is leaking because of angle with an aftermarket rzeppa that will leak because of angle. If this isn’t a rock solid plan than I don’t know what is.
 
OverlanderJK said:
There is so much to unpack here. First why is the font so big in your text? Is there a need?

Second, you could try and actually type out your stuff here instead of just copy and pasting from another forum.

Lastly, you are replacing your factory rzeppa driveshaft that is leaking because of angle with an aftermarket rzeppa that will leak because of angle. If this isn’t a rock solid plan than I don’t know what is.
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Sorry, I was just too damn tired to type more and got lazy, didn't realize the type was so big till I looked...thanks for calling me on this!

Not too worried about warranty on a front driveshaft. This Teraflex high-angle Rzeppa CV joint is designed to work with more extreme angles than the factory joint and if it solves future driveshaft issues then adding this along with replacing the boot makes good sense to me.
 
4PLAY said:
This Teraflex high-angle Rzeppa CV joint is designed to work with more extreme angles than the factory joint and if it solves future driveshaft issues then adding this along with replacing the boot makes good sense to me.
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Glad to see you have confidence in what you were sold and hope it works out for you. I remember when it came out back in the JK days and people were sure it would work for them. It's too bad that the only thing it does is prevent the shaft from making contact with the collar of the rzeppa joint and does nothing to prevent the rubber boot from being in a constant state of pinch. This is ultimately what causes the boot to fail, just like stock. Of course, it's not as much of a problem on a JL or JT with FAD being that the shaft only spins when in 4WD but if you do use 4WD a lot, I'd keep an eye on it.
 
4PLAY said:
Not too worried about warranty on a front driveshaft. This Teraflex high-angle Rzeppa CV joint is designed to work with more extreme angles than the factory joint and if it solves future driveshaft issues then adding this along with replacing the boot makes good sense to me.
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Blown CV Boot?

Crawled under my 2016 JKU today to change the transfer case fluid at 60k miles. Noticed some black splatter behind the transfer case on the rear driveshaft. Is this a blown CV boot? Do I have to replace the driveshaft? I've got a 2.5 in AEV dualsport lift on a 2016 JKU.
www.wayalife.com www.wayalife.com

JK Rzeppa High Angle Factory Replacement CV Kit Questions?

Just curious on what your thoughts are on this? https://teraflex.com/shop_items/55c3f57205a25c5bb1173c17 I didn't know these existed until today, I wonder if they may be a viable option for a limited few applications. I am not really considering them, it seems like new shafts are the way...
www.wayalife.com www.wayalife.com

www.wayalife.com

Front drive shaft tear

Looking like I need to get a new front drive shaft, running a rock krawler stock mod with emulsion shocks, been running it for a year and a half now, just noticed this tear. Probably should have swapped my shafts when I did the lift.
www.wayalife.com www.wayalife.com


You are welcome 😊
 
wayoflife said:
Glad to see you have confidence in what you were sold and hope it works out for you. I remember when it came out back in the JK days and people were sure it would work for them. It's too bad that the only thing it does is prevent the shaft from making contact with the collar of the rzeppa joint and does nothing to prevent the rubber boot from being in a constant state of pinch. This is ultimately what causes the boot to fail, just like stock. Of course, it's not as much of a problem on a JL or JT with FAD being that the shaft only spins when in 4WD but if you do use 4WD a lot, I'd keep an eye on it.
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I had to do some digging but found that old potatohead thread.
 
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