12 vs 14 rubicon

rubicon91

rubicon91

New member
Not sure if this goes here. Sorry if it doesn't. I am pondering changing up and getting a new jeep. I have a couple of options and was curious on opinions. I kind of know which way I want to go however I just want to make sure I am not missing anything in regards to the different years. I am looking at a 12 rubicon 410 gears 6speed manual hardtop. 24x miles. Other option is a 14 rubicon 373 gears automatic less than 1k miles. So I have always had a stick. Love them however automatic kinda sounds nice as well but 373 gears and auto scares me. I am leaning towards the 12. Any reason not to? I have a 12 sport manual currently. Plan is a 2-3 inch lift 35's. I have a gobi rack on order for current jeep so I am thinking auto 373 would need regearing due to it being an auto. Pricing is close between them due to other options on 12 that 14 doesn't happen. Is there any reason I should look at 14 besides being 2 years newer? Thanks for the input.


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For what it matters I'll share. I have a 2014 Rubicon auto with 3.73 gears. I just now added the EVO level kit but I still have stock tires and wheels. I can do 80mph all day long on the interstate, it sits at 2750 rpm and I average 16mpg.

Some days I wish I would have gotten a manual, then I get stuck in traffic and then I realize why I got auto.

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Canvas JK said:
It sounds like you have already made your mind up on the 12.
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Well I have never since I was a kid thought a jeep should have auto transmission so it is a little easier of a choice with that reasoning however 2 yrs old vs new. 24k miles vs less than 1k. Just want to make sure I am not missing anything. I am not a huge fan of the 12 color so not totally made up yet but the $1500 regear charge does go into my thinking or the 14.


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IMO The 12 Rubi is the winner. Be mindful of the cracking heads. Also know that you could do a budget boost w/ 35s and be pretty well set up.

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you already have a '12....so why change? It's not like you're upgrading the engine from the 3.8L turd. You could easily find a set of rubi takeoffs, axles, transfer case, swaybar(one is for sale on here now), etc for great prices. My guess is the loss you would take in selling yours, the upgrade cost to buy this one, plus the taxes and registration fees would easily cover most of those costs. Just weight out the cost swing you would incure and go from there. look at what makes the most financial assist unless money isnt a deciding factor.:twocents:
 
First off let me say that I must have had one too many drinks last night. I put this in Destinations and Beyond. Amazed anyone responded :hmm:. Mobile app and me just not getting along too well.

Thanks for all the input I really appreciate it. Couple great points and I do have to think. I have a possible deal in place that may be too good to pass up on selling my existing Jeep. I had an 06 Rubicon before the Sport here and wanted another Rubicon but just could not justify the price tag for one down here in FL at the time. Now on the other hand it may actually work in my favor. Thanks again.
 
I have a 12 Ruby with 4.10s and 34.5s... 4.10s would be the last thing I would trade off the Jeep...
 
There are several ways to look at it. If you're happy with the manual you have, why not build the rig you have?
Drop in some built axles, with those you can do better than 4.10 gearing, better lockers, better ball joints, better... (you get the picture)
Just seems to me you already have the 3.6, why trade? Just build what you got and make it better than a factory Rubi.
 
Do not get the 12.
Probably already had some major engine work done to it and if it hasn't, it will need it. I'm not sure how to go about warranty work if you purchase it used.

Look around some more those are not the only two Rubis for sale. If one doesn't have something you like. Wait for another. Get exactly what you want the first time don't compromise. It's not hard to find them.




...I'll sell you my '13 10a 4.11 with an auto.....
 
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HighwayTrout said:
Do not get the 12.
Probably already had some major engine work done to it and if it hasn't, it will need it. I'm not sure how to go about warranty work if you purchase it used.

Look around some more those are not the only two Rubis for sale. If one doesn't have something you like. Wait for another. Get exactly what you want the first time don't compromise. It's not hard to find them.




...I'll sell you my '13 10a 4.11 with an auto.....
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I appreciate your response. They are not the only 2 out there by far. I currently have a 12 Sport with zero issues owned 2 1/2 years now. I do not need a new Jeep. More of the well if they are going to pay good money for my sport what do I WANT Jeep. I have zero desire to spend $40-45K on a new rubicon for sure. Crazy to me to spend that type of money. The 12 vs 14 was more of a what if anything am I missing about the 2 years. Any significant changes that I was maybe missing and the headers on the 12 was something I forgot about so just starting this thread helped me greatly. Funny though I have requested additional info for both and neither place has bothered to get back with me. Hell I even gave my work email that does not end in a yahoo or gmail. Phone number I will never give right off the bat. I dont need you blowing up my phone while I am busy not working and surveying the forums. Anyways thanks again. Who knows maybe I just go purchase a futureliner and restore it instead :cheesy:
 
I have a '13 Rubi with an auto and 3.73 gears. I wouldn't call it sluggish and it did fine with the stock 32" mud terrains but having since upgraded to 4.88's in preparation for 37's, I know I would have hated it with 35's and those tires. A manual wouldn't have made it any better I don't think.

The auto transmission is actually a great transmission. It was built during the Daimler-Chrysler years and MB put it in several of their cars. There are times it hunts for gears, but you can either use the tiptronic feature or use a programmer to change your shift points if that bothers you. I drove both the auto and manual when I was shopping and I thought the manual was too "slushy" for me, but I was coming from a sports car with short shifts and quick engagement so that's not surprising. I didn't think I'd pick an auto either, but here I am! I wouldn't go back on that decision.
 
Weird no one mentionned the fact that with the 3.6L , the 3.73 with auto is about equal to the 4.10 with stick shift, due to the tranny low gearing. That is why they come standard like that.

Now, 4.10 and auto is the way to go. Still not low enough for 35s, but the best of the 3 set-ups.
 
I sold my 12 sport auto with 3.73's and bought a 14 Rubi auto with 4.10's. Had leveling kit and 33's on the 12, now have 2.5 AEV lift with 35's on the 14. With the Flaspaq tune the 14 runs great.
I'd shop around on the 14. I paid $37k new
 
rubicon91 said:
Not sure if this goes here. Sorry if it doesn't. I am pondering changing up and getting a new jeep. I have a couple of options and was curious on opinions. I kind of know which way I want to go however I just want to make sure I am not missing anything in regards to the different years. I am looking at a 12 rubicon 410 gears 6speed manual hardtop. 24x miles. Other option is a 14 rubicon 373 gears automatic less than 1k miles. So I have always had a stick. Love them however automatic kinda sounds nice as well but 373 gears and auto scares me. I am leaning towards the 12. Any reason not to? I have a 12 sport manual currently. Plan is a 2-3 inch lift 35's. I have a gobi rack on order for current jeep so I am thinking auto 373 would need regearing due to it being an auto. Pricing is close between them due to other options on 12 that 14 doesn't happen. Is there any reason I should look at 14 besides being 2 years newer? Thanks for the input.


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Im not sure about your pricing, but I had a 2012 Sahara that I bought for 34k. Traded it in 2 years and 23000 miles later for 32k to get my 14 rubi. I would get a 2015 Rubi EXACTLY like you want it with a full warranty and no prior molestation. I can't imagine you saving anything meaningful by getting the 14 or the 12.
 
Do you guys by chance know when the issue with the heads were on the 12's? I thought it was early production.
 
rubicon91 said:
Do you guys by chance know when the issue with the heads were on the 12's? I thought it was early production.
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Nope, it was basically all of them, some even said some early 13s. Basically you want to make sure it has the AB head, not the AA head, by looking at the barcode sticker on the side of the block.
 
Cylinder head failures, on the 3.6 Pentastar engine.
It started out in 2011, on models other than the Wrangler, and finished up in the Fall of 2012, including the Wrangler. It goes by the Julian date, stamped on the cylinder head casting.
The first set of heads, were the AA, then they updated to the AB, which some of them, also failed. The latest revision are the AC heads, which finally fixed the issue. I believe that the AC Heads were installed on the Julian date of 2062 and later. That is the 206th day, of the year 2012.
Please remember, that this was just a small percentage of the 3.6 engines that had this failure. There are many AA, and AB heads, that are still running today, with out a failure!

Also some of the 2012, and 2013 model year Wranglers, have had water pump failures, but again a small percentage.

The 2014 are having the oil cooler housing cracking issue, because of a new updated oil cooler housing design, incorporating a new oil filter element.
But this is once again, a very small percentage.

I hope that this update has helped you!
 
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JK_Dave said:
There are times it hunts for gears, but you can either use the tiptronic feature or use a programmer to change your shift points if that bothers you.
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No, you cannot reprogram your shift points on this transmission. It has a separate ECU which has not been hacked nor is it accessible at this point.
 
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