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Little bit more practice today. Seems like a pulse technique works well, especially for the thinner metal. 18 gauge: This stuff is about 1/8” thick:

Yes it uses regular wire. It came with E71T-GS, .030”. It will run .035” as well. The manual says it will do 60” of weld. Yes you can recharge it from 12v, but it needs to be a live system (running car, ship to shore, etc.).

Happy you jumped in here Jerry. Between the two of us, and Don, we’re well covered in the trail welder department. 😂Only thing I’d add is that you can charge off a 12 volt system (eg, using the cigarette socket in your vehicle while the vehicle is running), but you can’t weld using a 12 volt...

I picked up a Karnage Welder a couple of days ago. It’s a battery powered welder in a suitcase. There are various trail welder options, but the Karnage is the only one that I know if that’s self contained (I.e., doesn’t run off car batteries or an alternator). That gives it a lot more...

KwikWeld. It’s what I had available. Did you reinforce it with internal tubing? I doubt the epoxy would hold it together without reinforcing the joint.

Haha. My son and I play that song only when wheeling for some reason. We always joke about Kid Rock rhyming “things” with “things.” That guys is a poet of the highest caliber. 😂

Anyone with EVO high clearance arms gets first dibs. Those brackets seem to need a trail welder on hand. Then Vic, for his oil pan. 🤣

The manual says it will lay 60 inches of weld on a full charge. So it probably would work. 🤷🏻‍♂️ I’ll need to get some time with it.

Interesting. I guess I could see that. I use the 10.8:1 occasionally, but it’s so low I just idle because I’m afraid of breaking something. But for certain situations it’s great. Gatekeeper to Hammerdown, for example.

The Rubicrawler is between the AT and the TC. So I would think that changing the TC isn’t going to help the issue. As for whether it’s a simple bolt in swap, I don’t know. Your friend should call Advanced Adapters with that question.

Definitely some ideas about what not to do.

I don’t think the sport TC is any weaker, but if he goes that route he will loose the main benefit of a Rubicrawler: having both 4:1 and a 2.7:1 ratios to work with (in addition to the rarely used 10.8:1). Instead he’d have a 2.7:1 and a 7.3:1. The latter is probably impractical for most...

Current is not adjustable, so fine metal work is not the right application for this. I got it for trail repairs, likely 3/16” or thicker. I have another portable welder that runs off two car batteries, but I’m not thrilled with it because my batteries are kind of a challenge to access and the...

Sure thing. Jerry recently got one too. One or the other of us will report once we get some experience with it. All I can say so far is that the customer service has been excellent. I received two or three emails from the owner of the company between when I ordered and when it shipped.

Arrived yesterday. Will give it a whirl this weekend.

Come in second, like trump? 😂

Just try to keep the heat concentrated on the end of the pitman that interfaces with the DL end you’re trying to remove. You want to avoid having a bunch of heat transfer to the sector shaft and potentially damage seals in your steering box.

They have a little dealio that bolts to the factory fender support that keeps the MCE fronts from sagging or flapping. At leastX mine came with that.

I would put some heat to the pitman arm with a propane torch and then use the dual sledge hammer method.

Use two. One to hammer, one to absorb the blow.