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I've complained about the welds on this 715 before. Now I'm going to show you some horrible proof..... Dear goodness. This one didn't receive ENOUGH booger weld, probably why it broke. This was probably a jerry can mount gone totally sideways... please appreciate the far from round...

This is us at the end of a 5 day wrench fest, 12 hours per day, pretty tired. Getting this done without two people would have been impossible and the assistance from Mark was invaluable. It took a long time to do measurements, plan and carefully cut steel so that we had an ultra clean final...

Putting it back together... Installed. Mostly. Not leveled out or actually bolted down but it's in :thumb: 22.25" shorter overall

Freeing the sheet metal bits. The very rear will be retained and the rest is getting cut away Bed splicing....this is the cleaned up main portion of the bed, ready to be re-united with the rear. You can see that we retained the factory vertical lip after cutting through the spot welds...

Cutting the bed for the coil overs... Measuring these out included long discussions, accusations, veiled threats and measuring about 7 times. Not easy to determine where a shock mount comes through in 3 dimensional space. Mark removing all the extra bits that were in the way so we can lay...

Poor old bed is off to the blaster after hauling it out from behind the barn where it's been stored. EVERYTHING that could unbolt or come off of it was removed prior to blast work And yes, the tailgate REALLY is that bent and sprung. It takes a heavy ratchet strap or a come-a-long just to...

And after several years of work, it’s finally rolling :thumb:

Front shock hoops and mounts... Cross bar...

Working on the rear axle shock mounts 1.5” DOM mounts. These are King 2.5’s with 16” of travel. Rear are triple rate Full bump driver, full droop passenger They are big hoops but that’s what you get when you have 16” King’s on a truck with nearly no lift

Clutch master and pedal retrofit. 316 stainless to make a clevis in the correct width for the pedal. I looked, not available commercially in the size I needed Pedal alignment. All three are finally hooked up here UHMW spacer for the master. This helps space the master out far enough...

Plugging away. Fabricating a mount for the cutting brakes here These will operate the rear left/right brake calipers independently and will allow for much tighter turns at low speed. They should easily lock up a 40" tire

Welded the rear frame plate in after plasma cutting holes for the shackle mounts. The mounts pass through both the outer and inner frame sections and will be fully welded. Very strong tow point that way These are fully passed through the outer and inner frame. Solid 1” bar from Ballistic...

I had these old suspension brackets sitting in the metal bin, decided to cut them up to fabricate bumpstop pads for the rear axle truss Fully boxed and burned in This is 5” total uptravel Started cleaning up the rear frame which was full of old holes. I don't need them and don't want...

Notched out and tubed the rear frame in preparation for the bumpstops. Got a little help from Kaiser too :) Plasma cut then cleaned up with a flap wheel Sleeve welded in Using 2.5” King bumpstops Got a big welding helmet upgrade as a birthday present. Unbelievable how well you can...

Also ended up modifying the factory GM pedal a bit as it was protruding WAY too far in towards the seat. Cut it, ground it a bit and bent it out some towards the brake pedal. Now at least both are “on line” together. This also clears room for the installation of the cutting brakes

Time to cut up the frame a bit. In order to maximize uptravel with only 2” of lift, the frame needed to be relieved for the panhard bar. Max uptravel will be 4” as just beyond that the differential casting strikes the frame and the panhard is in the front differential cover and engine harmonic...

Started modifying the dash for all the extras it needs. This was a big factory hole in the upper left section of the dash that needed to be filled in so an updated wiper switch could be installed All silicone bronze filler here and then sanded with a DA Laying out the locations for the...

Back at it. The hydroboost rod needed to be significantly shortened, I came up with this and it threads together securely

If it seems like I'm bouncing around from project to project, I am. There are literally dozens of different things to work on at once. Went ahead and welded nutserts into the tunnel. This way the shift boots and rings can be easily installed or removed without a back up wrench I also cut...

Body work :naw: Plasma cut out the last little bit, basically the very inside floor corner of the rear cab. I didn’t want to play around with welding anywhere near it Cab corner fit-up. Overall pretty good. The only issue is that the corner radius is slightly different. I should be able to...