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Oh, I thought the picture you posted was with no weight on the suspension. I also have AGM sliders which are taller but not that much.

Thanks

Earlier this week my rear Evo axle truss from Northridge arrived along with some swag. It got welded on earlier today. I still need to primer all of it and then paint. Yesterday I helped a buddy install a lift on his TJ so we took it out today for some flexing.

I used a harbor freight ball joint press to do the passenger side but the press bent and cracked on the driver side. I borrowed a MAC press from a coworker to finish up. I'm currently waiting on this awesome snap on kit to arrive. Not very practical for the DIYer at home but if you're in the...

I have the same kit and batteries but made my own wiring. The installation was surprisingly easy and just like mentioned before the bolt on coilovers went right into place. I don't have the G screen either but have been curious about it. It takes quite a while for both batteries to drain down...

They don't tarnish or oxidize that quick. Ive had mine bare for about 8 months and my light bar brackets have been bare for almost a year. As far as the weight difference I think the steel is 30lbs and the aluminum are around 12lbs.

Has anyone installed this yet? I'm wondering if it will clear the Evo raised rear trackbar bracket? If some modification is required would you modify the truss or the raised trackbar bracket? I plan on welding on the trackbar bracket at the same time. The truss arrives tomorrow.

My timing rings have been moved down since that picture but I know the OP has his off as well. That was just the best picture I had to show the height adjusters. Here are my timing rings now:

Yeah you need to do it to all 4. This is mine with 35s with the bolt on kit front and rear. You can see where the adjusters are.

I'm guessing it's this thumbs up emoji. I see it but I'm on iPhone.

Dual 50s are definitely not needed. This is a picture of only my 50 on.

I would honestly get the poison spyder brackets. They are the cleanest looking mounts that I have seen. This is how mine sits.

Those spacers

I didn't remove my stock ones when we welded the gussets and control arm skids. We did go slow and cooled the ball joints off with wet rags. About 2 weeks ago I finally replaced the ball joints with the pro steers. The stock ones lasted about 35k for me.

Not to get too off topic but I love your rig Olram30. I would think having the long arm kit that you have very few limitations. I have the enforcer pro but haven't actually maxed out the flex yet. This picture is right after trimming the fenders and is 35" off the ground.

2 years and 36k miles later

Thanks! To bolt the box to the body

100 watts per channel is plenty. I have 2 4 channel amps - 1 for 4 tweeters and 1 for 4 mids which are both doing 70 watts rms. It goes rediculously loud and stays clean. Although I tuned all the amps with an oscilloscope. You basically play test tones for each amp and turn the gain up...

You do have to cut part of the factory mount to bolt it on. Mine is bolted on only right now but will get it welded when I get the rear evo truss