Skid plates
- Thread starter upnover
- Start date
jeeeep
Hooked
picking good lines and factory skids
I had the EVO transmission with exhaust skid on my 2018, took them off a month later when I had to change the oil and most of it went into the skid plate, the exhaust portion doesn't work with long arms.
For the JKU I have a Rancho oil pan skid but they don't seem to make it anymore. It was easy to put on, not in the way and covers the bottom of the oil pan nicely.
DirtHeadDavis
Hooked
This ^
bobfriesenhahn
Hooked
Nitrogen mixed with oxygen and some trace gasses.
GP NOIR
Hooked
Of course aluminum doesn’t rust. It can’t. Rust is iron oxide and aluminum has no iron in it. Since aluminum cannot rust, the internet would have us believe it’s a miracle metal. It isn’t. While aluminum can’t rust, it does corrode. Although aluminum is lighter than steel, it isn’t as abrasion resistant.
In my experience with my two door JK on 35s, common points of contact are front & rear bumpers, rocker panels, control arms, the aftermarket drop down control arm brackets, axle diffs and the transmission crossmember.
When armoring up, I suggest getting rock sliders first (to keep the rocker panels from getting damaged), then bumpers, then a beefed up crossmember. I’m on my second factory crossmember and it’s ready bent, buckled & distorted.
I’ve run trails with and without skid plates. I found the plates would drag across rocks the Jeep would clear without them.
RJV
Caught the Bug
The factory skid plates do just fine for protecting the oil and tranny pan, the oil pan is very out of the way. I put the Evo protek oil pan/tranny skid on and the exhaust loop skid, the oil/tranny pan one looks new and doesn't get any hits on in any spot besides where the factory trans bar goes. The exhaust loop skid gets more hits IMO.
But if you don't have the 3.6 it's a non issue, I'd just run the factory ones like everyone else suggests. Depends on where you wheel too, if sliding and landing on jagged rocks is more likely, then the Evo skids would be more useful. In a place like Moab where it's a lot of ridges/shelfs/walls, probably not as helpful. Factory tcase skid/gas tank skid are just fine. I have seen though on the factory transmission skid where the metal starts to rip a bit where it bolts to the frame (around those holes for the bolts), but it takes a lot to get to that point.
But if you don't have the 3.6 it's a non issue, I'd just run the factory ones like everyone else suggests. Depends on where you wheel too, if sliding and landing on jagged rocks is more likely, then the Evo skids would be more useful. In a place like Moab where it's a lot of ridges/shelfs/walls, probably not as helpful. Factory tcase skid/gas tank skid are just fine. I have seen though on the factory transmission skid where the metal starts to rip a bit where it bolts to the frame (around those holes for the bolts), but it takes a lot to get to that point.
Bizcuit
Active Member
I’ll bet the list is short on people with experience with JL aluminum skids. Don’t let that deter you from asking yourself what’s your goal for your project, and making it be something you’re proud of.
My advice would be to use steel and deal with its strengths and weaknesses. Like jeeep stated, you might have fitment problems or choose to make modifications to fit your future needs. Anyone with halfass welding skills, or your local high school wannabe welder could help you make it fit your needs. Aluminum on the surface looks cool and sexy, but is much more difficult to make alterations to down the road for the average guy.
