Tagged my driveshaft

Samuelh3

Samuelh3

Caught the Bug
Well, it was only a matter of time. I tagged my driveshaft pretty good today.

IMG_5865.jpg

IMG_5866.jpg

I had torn the boot a week ago from articulation. It needed to be replaced anyways, oh well.

I got high sided on a rock doing the "mini-Rubicon" at Holy Jim here in Trabuco Canyon.

Question is...is it work saving as a spare??



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not worth saving as a spare.

If you replace it with after market it won't be an easy spare swap anyway.
 
If you go aftermarket you'll need control arms to dial everything in.

If you can find a stock rear for cheap, might be worth it.

Hard to tell from the pic, but seems like it might also be dented beyond just the boot? You can buy and replace just the boot for about $45. If dented, balancing could be a bitch.
 
Not sure if its more of a headache.... but if you think you may want to try and rebuild that one (fix dents, boot, balance) There is a good driveshaft shop in Gardena. Might be worth a phone call... PM me if you want the number.


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JAGS said:
If you go aftermarket you'll need control arms to dial everything in.

If you can find a stock rear for cheap, might be worth it.

Hard to tell from the pic, but seems like it might also be dented beyond just the boot? You can buy and replace just the boot for about $45. If dented, balancing could be a bitch.
Click to expand...

Will I have to adjust my control arms with a new aftermarket driveshaft? I thought they adjusted automatically based on articulation.


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Samuelh3 said:
Will I have to adjust my control arms with a new aftermarket driveshaft? I thought they adjusted automatically based on articulation.


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Click to expand...

My understanding is you'll want either uppers or lowers...can't recall. The joints are not the same on aftermarket shafts. Maybe someone else will see this and confirm one way or the other.
 
Samuelh3 said:
Will I have to adjust my control arms with a new aftermarket driveshaft? I thought they adjusted automatically based on articulation.


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Click to expand...

You want your pinion angle and driveshaft angle parallel. Assuming your new driveshaft has a double cardin ujoint setup near the transfer case. Upper arms should fix this if it is needed.
 
WJCO said:
You want your pinion angle and driveshaft angle parallel. Assuming your new driveshaft has a double cardin ujoint setup near the transfer case. Upper arms should fix this if it is needed.
Click to expand...

Yup, this ^^^. Pinion angle and shaft need to be inline and adjustable rear upper arms will allow you to set it.
 
I'll take a look once the new driveshaft is installed. I did adjust the control arms quite a bit when I put my lift and 37s on but it was more to move the axle back about 1.5 inches 'cause I was rubbing. Any specific tips on measuring pinion angle, or is it just a visual check?


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Samuelh3 said:
I'll take a look once the new driveshaft is installed. I did adjust the control arms quite a bit when I put my lift and 37s on but it was more to move the axle back about 1.5 inches 'cause I was rubbing. Any specific tips on measuring pinion angle, or is it just a visual check?


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Click to expand...

For the rear, just a visual check. You could snap a picture of it, then on your PC, using a paint editing program, draw lines through both parts to make sure they're parallel. Like this (this is just an example, I just grabbed a random pic off the web and added lines):

DSC06767 copy.jpg
 
Awesome thanks. And just to be sure. A slightly bent be unbalanced rear driveshaft would cause a slight steering wobble correct? It should I be looking for more damage somewhere? I really did a number down there.


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Samuelh3 said:
Awesome thanks. And just to be sure. A slightly bent be unbalanced rear driveshaft would cause a slight steering wobble correct? It should I be looking for more damage somewhere? I really did a number down there.


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Click to expand...

It would cause a vibration, NOT a wobble in your steering.

A speed related wobble or shimmy in the steering wheel is almost always a tire balancing issue.
 
I used my driveshaft as a rock slider about a year and a half ago, and never really thought much about it. Maybe I should replace that? :idontknow:
 
WJCO said:
You want your pinion angle and driveshaft angle parallel. Assuming your new driveshaft has a double cardin ujoint setup near the transfer case. Upper arms should fix this if it is needed.
Click to expand...

wayoflife said:
Yup, this ^^^. Pinion angle and shaft need to be inline and adjustable rear upper arms will allow you to set it.
Click to expand...

Hey, screw you guys, I should get web wrenching credit for this one. Lol. #fusem17 [emoji23][emoji23]
 
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